1985 Johnson GT150

[flametamer123]

OK, I have a question....today I started my motor, in the carport with a hose and one of those double suction cup things, took a while to get it started, and when I did it seemed to be running roughly, and at about 1100 rpms at idle. I have'nt ran it much the last year maybe a couple of times (2) at the most. I pulled each spark plug, and I THINK I noticed a change in the motor. The gas is old and I did put STABIL in it when I last filled the tank and let it run into the motor and all that. I will check/change the plugs this week, and see if that helps. I also noticed that i cannot get the bulb to pump tight, can't find any leaks, and when I switch tanks one gets the bulb tighter than the other, but neither is really tight. I am on a limited budget due to major health problems with my wife and daughter (thats why I haven't ran the boat or gone fishing) so any advice would be greatly appreciated...you guys have really helped alot......and I hope this isn't a stupid question, but if anyone lives close to Albemarle, NC and would listen/look at it for me in hopes of identifying the problem that would be great too, I can also pull it to someone within a reasonable distance....don't get me wrong, I'm not asking anyone to fix it for free, just look/listen and maybe point me in the right directions.

Also, there is a small water leak around one of the bolts holding the plate that is in the center of the motor between the 2 heads. Any ideas on that one?


Thanks in advance,
Bryan Richardson

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[Bassmeister]

Do you have dual tanks?? From your description I'm think yes, one tank may have rotted fuel lines allowing air to be sucked into the system. Change all fuel lines from the tank to the(s) to the bulb should fix the problem. The bolt leaking could just be a loose bolt, if the gasket is compromised then a replacement would be necessary.

[flametamer123]

Thanks, yes I do have dual tanks, and there is a valve at the back of the boat to switch them back on forth. If I replace the lines, do they run from each tank to the valve (like a tee) then one to the engine. Also, didn't dawn on me but the valve that switches them sometimes has gas very lightly seeping around the shaft of the knob. Guess that would have to be replaced too.

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[ChampioNman]

I had a customer with a Ranger of your vintage but with a 60* 150 that was getting a fuel restriction alarm when he was running at WOT. He brought it to 2 shops and one wanted to replace the VRO the other told him he needed a carb rebuild. It drove me nuts for a bit until I got into the battery compartment and saw that somebody had replaced the fuel line from one tank to the selector switch with a 5/16" ID fuel line. That was what was causing the alarm. So when you do it replace all of the hoses from both tanks and to the motor with 3/8" ID fuel hose. Also the selector switch on the Rangers are brass. You can do all of this work yourself and save a bunch of $$$. Replace the primer bulb too. BRP does offer a complete fuel hose with primer bulb for around $20.00 that will take you from the selector switch to the motor.

[flametamer123]

Is there a way to check the valve, and lines to see if they leak? If not is the valve a standard item, or will I have to get it from Ranger?

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[ChampioNman]

Ranger would be your best bet.

[flametamer123]

Ok I checked the gas lines today, and low and behold the one going from the valve to the tank that was giving me trouble looked a lot different, it was still 3/8 ID, but it had bumps all over it, was very flimsy, and collapsed when lightly bent, also upon closer inspection I found there were hundreds of tiny holes in it on the outside, maybe not all were leaking but probably a safe bet at least one was. I will stop tomorrow and get a new line, the valve seems to be free of leaks, I used a compression tester like for cylinders, pulled a vacuum, and it held until I got tired of waiting, and let it go on both sides. I does leak gas, but only when turning it from side to side. I took the bulb off the line, compressed it, held the ends and it would fill back up with air over about 1 minutes time, so I think its bad, so gonna replace that too. I will wait on the valve and see how things go with the other parts......will keep you posted.

One other question.....if the gaskets to my gas level sending units is bad will that cause a problem? Just curious.


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[ChampioNman]

Yes but you can either tighten them or make a gasket out of an inner tube I know this sounds hack but apply some black RTV on both sides and secure it . You are on the right track though. Repalce your primer bulb with a BRP OEM bulb not a Tempo or some other off the shelf bulb.

[flametamer123]

OK, I replaced the bad section of line today, cut the ends and re-attached the others where the clamps had chewed into them, replaced the bulb, and the line from the bulb to tank (found large holes in it) started her up, she ran until the left tank was empty, switched over to the right, pumped it up, it got tight, and ran for about 30 minutes on the hose without cutting off, and without the low pressure alarm. I did find that about ALL the bolts on the back plate were loose, tightened those. The bulb will pump tight now, would not before so I think all is well. Gonna decarb this weekend and change the plugs and see how it goes, any recomendations on the type of plugs to use, or just use the standard ones?

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[ChampioNman]

Go by autozone and get 6 Champion QL77jc4's stock # 828 they go for $1.99 a piece. If they don't have enough and you have an O'Reilly's in town they will match the price. Gap them at .030" tight.

[flametamer123]

anyone tell me how high the idle speed should be on the hose? running 1000-1100 RPMs.....


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[ChampioNman]

At idle on the hose you are just about correct.

[flametamer123]

good deal,

[flametamer123]

OK, I put 6 new plugs in today, not much change in the way the motor runs, guess I will have to take it to the water to see if I can blow it out real good, if not gonna have to break down and get the carbs cleaned, and checked for adjustment, and syncronization.....We'll see.


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[BASSFAN07]

champion spark plugs are terrible. I would reccomend getting the NGK eq. I have a 1984 375v with the same in a gt 150. I just had to have a tune up and a power pack put in.

I had a problem with water collecting in my fuel tanks due to lack of use. I was using the stay-bil, but my mechanic said that stuff was crap if I was going to let my boat sit for any amount of time. You would never believe it, but he told me to mix 1/2 a pint of everclear(drinking liquor) with a full tank of gas and the alcohol would keep the water out of the gas. Took it to harris on fri and jordan yesterday and it ran like a top. Mechanic said he wouldn't trade a gt150 for a new engine. said they made those well and they are easy to work on.

you sound like me in that your boat does a whole lot of sitting around.
get on the water....

[Bassmeister]

NO NO NO!!!! Stick with the Champion plugs!!!!

[DoferGofer]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bassmeister &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">NO NO NO!!!! Stick with the Champion plugs!!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have the XP150 Evinrude which is Johnson's GT equivalent engine and I have used Champion plugs in it since 1985!
Therefore, my vote is with the Bassmeister, stick with the Champion plugs.



. . . and that's all I have to say about thaaaat.

[Klail]

Bryan,
Michael and Melvin are correct. Stay with Champion and do not use NGK in that OMC engine.

[DoferGofer]

Hi Klail,

How is the fishing on Hyco lake in Person county? Just wondering if it's worth it to drag my boat along, when I come down to Yanceyville to visit my second home.



Regards,

[Klail]

Hi Melvin, Guess this is a hi-jack. Fishing has been pretty good at Hyco. Low water over the winter concentrated the fish I think. Levels are back to normal now. I am in the process of buying a house in Prospect Hill, just south of Yanceyville.