Anybody else have issues loading Procraft boat onto the trailer?

[Smoove]

2005 180 combo on a Procraft trailer. My issue is I'm tearing the nose all up trying to load it. There is nothing but empty space from the the nose rubber at the wench and where the bunk boards end. The ramps I use dont do a nice sloap but rather a severe drop so when I drive on my nose goes under the rubber guide. If I pull the trailer out enough to get above it then I have to try and slide on the boards and always come up short and have to crank it about 2 feet which I'm afraid I'm gonna rip the eye out of the boat doing this. Thought about welding in a another guide roller half way but wanted to see if anyone else faced this issue.
Thanks

[bhinton-2]

Try putting the trailer deep in the water and then pull it out to wet the pads. Second is to get a set of plastic? plates to put on the pad boards. The problem with this is the boat can slid back off so you will need to nook it up and make have to keep power on it while someone hooks up.
We are all there at some time.
good luck

[BoatBuggy]

The eye at the front of the boat is probably the most reinforced spot on the boat.

I keep my heavy-ass ProCraft on a railway and it gets hauled out of the water up a decent slope using a chain that is connected to both the railway buggy and the eye at the nose. The chain on the nose keeps the boat from slipping off the buggy as is comes out of the water and it is tight for about 30 ft at which point the ground levels off and I can disconnect the chain from the nose and just pull the boat up on the buggy.

I've been doing this for over 5 years and the boat has come up that rail probably 1000 times. There are no cracks or any sign of fatigue around the eye. Cranking your boat a couple of feet onto the trailer isn't going to be an issue.

[VinceJE]

I've never loaded a ProCraft and I'm not sure I follow the procedure you've been using, but... Most of the time when the bow goes under the roller or bumper, it's because the trailer is in too deep. Have you tried loading with the trailer higher/shallower on the ramp?

[Smoove]

thanks for all the input guys.....................

plastic pads sounds like an idea.........

just keep bowing up and cranking it? Ok thats a plan too, it just seems like an awful lot of pressure to be applying

yes pulled the trailer out and then tried just using the motor to slide my way up, problem is to get the trailer out enough the motor hits bottom so I have to trim it up so high I really cant push the boat up and I wind up having to crank it anyway. I usually am launching by myself so it sucks when people are waiting and I'm fighting with it.

[Mickstix]

I've recently found a "sweet spot" on mine (98' Astro 2000DC on a single axle trailer) where I put the step (that comes off the front of the fender) just about 1/2 way in the water.. That'll let me power load it all the way up to the eye..

If ya can't get that sweet spot, load the boat as far as you can get it, then connect the strap to the eye, and then back the trailer in another foot or so, and it'll let ya crank it right on up w/o much stress.. Just a pain to do, having to get back in the truck and move the trailer again.. This is the route I have to take whenever Im alone though, cause even if I get it up to the eye, when I take it out of gear and get out, it'll slide back a few inches..

As for trimming the motor, I found it actually helps mine if I trim the motor up high, before loading it.. (Raises the bow, same as if you were tryin to holeshot w/o trimming down) and that'll let it slide up easier, removing weight from the front of the bunks..

Good luck!!

[CatFan]

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by Mickstix &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">

If ya can't get that sweet spot, load the boat as far as you can get it, then connect the strap to the eye, and then back the trailer in another foot or so, and it'll let ya crank it right on up w/o much stress.. </td></tr></table>

This is a good solution for steep ramps. If you have a driver with you, you can drive the boat up until it stops, then have them ease back and you goose it a little more to finish loading.

[RiverRatMD]

I've owned my 92 procraft 180 DP over 16 yrs and it has always been a tough boat to load on the trailer! But there is a sweet spot (just as the wheel goes under water completely, but the fender can be seen) that i have to hit just right or the boat doesn't load easily. The boats' heavy hull, wide ass, and chine design make it a tough load. I've loaded many different bass boats and the heavy procrafts are the toughest.

[VinceJE]

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by Mickstix &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">I've recently found a "sweet spot" on mine (98' Astro 2000DC on a single axle trailer) where I put the step (that comes off the front of the fender) just about 1/2 way in the water.. That'll let me power load it all the way up to the eye..

If ya can't get that sweet spot, load the boat as far as you can get it, then connect the strap to the eye, and then back the trailer in another foot or so, and it'll let ya crank it right on up w/o much stress.. Just a pain to do, having to get back in the truck and move the trailer again.. This is the route I have to take whenever Im alone though, cause even if I get it up to the eye, when I take it out of gear and get out, it'll slide back a few inches..

As for trimming the motor, I found it actually helps mine if I trim the motor up high, before loading it.. (Raises the bow, same as if you were tryin to holeshot w/o trimming down) and that'll let it slide up easier, removing weight from the front of the bunks..

Good luck!! </td></tr></table>

This seems to be the sweet spot for most I've seen, but evidently not for ProCraft. I'll have to pay attention the next time I see one at the ramp.

[Smoove]

Again thanx for the input..........

"Power loading" as far as it will go, hooking up my wench, backing the trailer a little farther then wenching it on up is the route I've been taking recently. yes it is a pain, expecially with people waiting.
I found the sweet spot once and it was the rear step up just at the waters edge. I was able to drive it all the way to the eye but found this changes with the waters tide.
sux for me.
anyhow thanks for ideas.......

[cyclone70]

Back the trailer in enough to wet all the bunks.
Pull out so you can see the top 2" of the the fenders at the most.
It's what I have always done.

[dptran11]

I've got a Skeeter and have the exact same issue. I ended up raising the bunks by putting a 2x4 (about 6 inches long) between the original bunks and the metal bracket that the bunks are bolted into. I also lowered the height of the post that the roller is bolted to by about 2 inches. This helped quite a bit. I still have to goose the motor to raise the nose above the roller but not as much and the sweet spot seems to be more forgiving. I still don't like having to pop the nose up like this so this winter I'm welding an extra crossbar onto the trailer. It will be towards the front of the trailer and I'll put a roller in the middle of the crossbar. The crossbar/roller should hold the front of the boat up when loading and eliminate having to goose the motor to raise the nose.

[kc152977]

On my 210sp i back in wet bunks and then pull up to where bottom of front off fender is touching water. Boat loads great then!!! Good luck with it!!

[bbnate804]

if your trailer is anything like mine the spacing between the bunk sets is pretty wide. on a steep ramp no matter where you put the trailer you can nose in almost to the roller you before you hit the bunks. if you look at some of the other trailers..... (off the top my head ranger comes to mind) the inner bunks are pretty tight together. the boat is on the boards earlier on a steeper ramp. just a thought, sure it doesn't help much though

[Smoove]

Thanks for all the input guys...................what has seem to work is spraying my boards with silicone. I dont have to put the trailer so deep and she doesnt struggle at all now sliding up the boards and I hit the roller everytime now. Thanks again!

[RiverRatMD]

Good deal! Just watch removing your winch strap when you launch your boat on steep ramps....Don't wanna slide off before you want to! I have actually seen this happen- not pretty!

[haha]

I really never have a problem loading my boat and I do it by rope. I only power load if I have someone with me. Like RiveratMD the sweet spot on my trailer is the same (wheels covered, top of fenders visible). After I back the trailer in the water, with the rope attached to the eye, I push the boat way out and walk off the dock to the trailer and pull the boat up onto the trailer.

[robertrosen]

I have rollers installed all the way up the center of my trailer to the winch. With the bunk boards and rollers I hit the trailer just about sidways and still just drive it right up to the winch roller. I bought it this way, not sure if its factory.

[DAKINE198]

I remember those days with my Procraft 205 DualPro. There is a sweet spot on the trailer which was on a steep incline 2/3 of the fenders submerged. But then you had to worry about the boat being centered as you hauled out. I disliked the trailer set up on that boat.

[RiverRatMD]

'Cuz they got that big 'ol fat bottom! You gotta sweet talk a ProCraft on the trailer