Master cylinder/caliper bleeding

[Sharkey]

So I just replaced the actuator, lines, and calipers on my Stratos trailer. I didn't read the MC priming instructions on here until just now. I've been on the site 100 times and just realized there were instructions.
Anyway, I went through the manual bleeding procedure and cannot get fluid to the calipers. It's like the MC is not even pushing the fluid down the lines, because the level never dropped in the reservoir. after each stroke, at first, a little bit of air would bubble up the top of the MC, that's it. Any ideas? I will by a mitivac or something if that will help, but it acts like there's a plug in the line. I have the reverse selenoid, i'm not sure what impact that has when trying to force down the line.... thanks guys, ken

[bab33face]

Try lowering the tongue of the trailer to the lowest angle possible which should be lower than the calipers and try bleeding again.

[Sharkey]

i'll give that a shot. I'm just hoping i don't have to take the actuator out again and prime it per lyn's instructions. I'm going to pickup a mitivac today too and see if that speeds up the process.

[Ntimad8rs]

You are running into the same issue I had to start with. Along with having the tongue down below the calipers, I had to first prime the M/C. To do that, I took off the line at the back of the servo and put my finger over the hole to put back pressure on the cylinder. Push the cylinder in, let the extra pressure off under your finger, hold the finger tight to the hole while letting the cylinder retreat. Then repeat it until you get a solid stream of fluid without air. Put the line back on as quick as you can and refill the reservoir. Then you can bleed the calipers. It does no good to mitivac it if the M/C is not primed. Oh when you are done with that, wash the whole area down with water and soak it back with wd-40, liquid wrench, or my fave, fogging oil. Brake fluid is verrrrry corrosive, almost as bad as fire extinguisher powder. Good luck!

[Sharkey]

Putting the line back on fast is the hard part. It took me forever the first time, as it's already connected back to the t-fitting 18' away and the torque on that thing is causing some issues w/ connection. I'll give it a shot anyway.

[Lyn O. Dyer]

PRIMING YOUR MASTER CYLINDER........
Place the master cylinder in a vice so you can see the back of the piston, you can do this with the solenoid attached if you have one , ....fill the reservoir with fluid...stick a phillips screwdriver in the back of the piston....push the piston all the way forward and hold there.....place your index finger tightly over the outlet on the other side of the master cylinder, or solenoid if it is attached......let the piston retract.....watch the fluid level...it should go down...this will tell you the fluid is going into the bore of the master cylinder........repeat the process 2 or 3 times..... now the fluid should squirt out when you push the piston forward ....place a plug into the outlet and reinstall the actuator and bleed....

[Lyn O. Dyer]

Also, the master cylinder needs to be BELOW the bleed screws when you bleed.

[Sharkey]

as usual, I should have just followed the instructions listed in the sticky notes. Bleeding/priming the MC was the issue. the tongue down trick helped as well. you guys are the best, cheers! Ken