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  1. #1
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    Bleeding break lines

    I replaced my actuator and now need to bleed the breaks. Random axel, watched some videos on it, however when we pump the actuator with screw driver tru the hole , we can't get any fluid to flow out the wheel fitting.. thoughts,?

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    #2
    bleeder could be clogged? remove it completely and check for bleeder hole being clogged. pump the actuator with bleeder out and see if you get any fluid.
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    #3
    2 piece bleeder screws?

  4. Member gdi's Avatar
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    #4
    Did you bleed the actuator first.

  5. #5
    Single bleeder system? I have this problem when doing mine even using a power bleeder. I have to use the banjo bolt on the right rear caliper first to get the fluid to that point then I can finish it with the bleeder on the port side. It does get done pretty quick when doing this though

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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by gdi View Post
    Did you bleed the actuator first.
    No. Should it be disconnected from the line to do this?

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    #7
    Quote Originally Posted by champ223 View Post
    Single bleeder system? I have this problem when doing mine even using a power bleeder. I have to use the banjo bolt on the right rear caliper first to get the fluid to that point then I can finish it with the bleeder on the port side. It does get done pretty quick when doing this though
    What is a banjo bolt? Is it the one with hex head?

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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by munchie View Post
    No. Should it be disconnected from the line to do this?
    Usually just some short strokes on the piston with a screw driver. About half or 1/3 of a full stroke. Bubbles will release into the master cylinder while doing this. When it stops producing bubbles, it is bled.

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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by munchie View Post
    What is a banjo bolt? Is it the one with hex head?
    Banjo bolt has washers on it and is hollow for the fluid to pass through the bolt usually used at the end of hoses
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  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by munchie View Post
    What is a banjo bolt? Is it the one with hex head?
    yes. The bolt that attaches the lines to the caliper. Crack the top one loose on the right rear wheel. Use it like a bleeder

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    #11
    Originally Posted by gdi
    Did you bleed the actuator first.


    Quote Originally Posted by munchie View Post
    No. Should it be disconnected from the line to do this?
    You can bleed it at the nut on the line, or the first place you get to on the brake system that you can loosen. Fill the reservoir, break the line loose, do one stroke, close the line, release, repeat.

  12. Scraps
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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by billnorman1 View Post
    Originally Posted by gdi
    Did you bleed the actuator first.

    You can bleed it at the nut on the line, or the first place you get to on the brake system that you can loosen. Fill the reservoir, break the line loose, do one stroke, close the line, release, repeat.
    Since I'm always working by myself, I'll just submerge the end of the hose in a bottle with fluid. Then don't have to worry about closing/opening the line or bleeder and won't suck air back into the MC.
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    #13
    Well, the way i was recommending would be using any fitting . Just start at the MC hookup to the system. Push, open, close release. Push, open, close, release. The submerged line is a good method, I'm just talking before you get to that point.

  14. Scraps
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    #14
    Quote Originally Posted by billnorman1 View Post
    Well, the way i was recommending would be using any fitting . Just start at the MC hookup to the system. Push, open, close release. Push, open, close, release. The submerged line is a good method, I'm just talking before you get to that point.
    I seem to get a way better bleed using the MC as a pump also.
    2017 Phoenix 819
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