Engine Coating

[fishinscott]

So I broke the crankshaft in the ol' rude, and I'm completely rebuilding her. The paint on the block is flaking off pretty bad, and I'm wondering what the best process and products are for repainting it once I've got it assembled.

Should I assemble it and have it powdercoated or are there any rattle can products that are effective? Should I blast all the remaining paint off or just take of the loose stuff?

What do you pros use?

[ssimpala71]

I have had pretty good success with some stuff called IPC-industrial protective coating. Its a "high solids" rattle can paint. Lays out real well--only drawback I have seen since it is high solids it takes a while to dry thoroughly. Not sure what all colors available either.

[DoferGofer]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fishinscott &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So I broke the crankshaft in the ol' rude, and I'm completely rebuilding her. The paint on the block is flaking off pretty bad, and I'm wondering what the best process and products are for repainting it once I've got it assembled.

Should I assemble it and have it powdercoated or are there any rattle can products that are effective? Should I blast all the remaining paint off or just take of the loose stuff?

What do you pros use?

</TD></TR></TABLE>
If it was me doing my engine, i would throughly clean the block while is is disassembled and after completely rebuilding it, I would mask all openings and repaint it with the factory color rattle can paint from your local dealer.



Regards,

[fishinscott]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DoferGofer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I would mask all openings and repaint it with the factory color rattle can paint from your local dealer.
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That would be my preference, if I can get hold of some paint. Would you blast all of the paint off the block, covers, heads, etc. or just knock off the loose chunks clean everything else?

Also, what sort of primer should I use on Aluminum? I tried some Zinc Chromate on a 12HP Gale, but it seems to rub or scrape off really easily. I just don't want this thing to start looking like crapo a few months after I finish rebuilding it !

Thanks for the help Dofer Gofer...you da man!!

[fishinscott]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ssimpala71 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have had pretty good success with some stuff called IPC-industrial protective coating. Its a "high solids" rattle can paint. Lays out real well--only drawback I have seen since it is high solids it takes a while to dry thoroughly. Not sure what all colors available either.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'll look into what colors they offer. What sort of primer do you use with the IPC on Aluminum?

Thanks for the info Brian!!

[fishinscott]

Never did get a response on this. Does anyone have any input on what sort of primer to use on an aluminum engine block?

Thanks!!

[DoferGofer]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fishinscott &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Never did get a response on this. Does anyone have any input on what sort of primer to use on an aluminum engine block?

Thanks!!
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Patience my friend, I am an old man. My Peetie-pie were out fishing for white perch yesterday, got off the river, scaled and clean 105 perch and mowed an acre of lawn before the storm.
At any rate, beside all of the fun we had, back to your paint question, while you have the block apart. clean sand where possible and remove any flacking paint. I don't want to recommend sand blasting because I won't to introduce anything that could be detrimental to you rebuild. You could use a paint remover to remove any paint that you cannot sand smooth.
After you remove or sand the existing paint smooth, use a white vinegar wash to prep the metal, then clean and throughly dry the metal surface and spray with a rattle can primer and paint from your local yocal, er I mean dealer.



Oh! by the way the white perch were so thick under the boat that it sent my Garming 545 S into a shallow water alarm while fishing in twenty feet of water. You could actually walk across the water on them.

Regards,

[ChampioNman]

I use a rattle can High Gloss Black 500* engine paint when I re-assemble them. I don't bother to prime them as they aren't exposed to the weather like the gear case and mid are.

[DoferGofer]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ChampioNman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I use a rattle can High Gloss Black 500* engine paint when I re-assemble them. I don't bother to prime them as they aren't exposed to the weather like the gear case and mid are. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't think a primer is really necessary either but, just in case he is persnickety as I am, I suppose he could actually use a primer without loosing anything but time to apply. after all he love his baby as I love mine although, the factory paint on my engine block is still holding up after twenty-three years on my XP.



Regards,

[Bassmeister]

The vinegar is a good idea!! I've used it before.

[fishinscott]

DoferGofer:
I'm glad to hear you guys did so well on the perch-jerking!! Sounds like you'll be having quite a fish fry You're right about how much I love my motor, and want it to turn out perfect. I think I'll go with the high temp gloss black as long as I don't have to cover a lot of bare metal after I'm done cleaning things up.

When I bought the motor, the float bowls were warped and the previous owner didn't exactly pay much attention to her. I don't think the factory paint was meant to be coated with fuel/oil mix for 3 years straight .

I've done some additional research, and found that the best primer for aluminum is Zinc Chromate. I have some aluminimum parts from another motor that I've got coated with Zinc Chromate, and it seems to rub off pretty easily. However, I was told that it chemically changes when the paint is applied, and forms a very good bond. I'll probably get some to touch up the bare spots just to be safe !!

I'll let you know how it works