EEM going back to BRP on 0/6 Etec 225 HO

[chugbug20X]

Wish this was not happing! They say they need to re map it? I dont know what any of this means but i am not happy.My motor only has about 30 hrs on it.

MN E225dhlsdf SM 05126673

[SEAHORSE]

let's get this story straight, are you taking back to the dealer to get a 15 minute "flash" on your engine computer (EMM) which will update your motor with the latest improvements?

If so be glad that you don't have a Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki, or a Mercury as you would have to live with the current running conditions and no way to make any improvements without spending over $1000 for a new computer!

I am assuming that you do not have to remove the computer, box it up, send it to BRP, and wait for it to come back to you, and then re-install it back on the motor, right?

[chugbug20X]

Sorry but your are not right. The EMM is goining back to BRP box up and shiped today i hope. Also very troubling why my dealer and a BRP rep had no idea why my motor shut down at 60 mph and i mean shut down ware i had to turn the key back to off then on again. They said there was nothing on the computer about this shut down.

[SEAHORSE]

Well, in that case your EMM will be replaced, not remapped. You didn't mention the problem you had, you just that it was going to be remapped which is something a dealer does.

[Jason Phillips]

Could it be something not associated with your engine that caused your motor to shut down at 60 mph? If the computer doesn't show anything I would assume you didn't get any lights or horns and the motor didn't go into S.L.O.W. mode.

Sounds more like their may be a short in your kill switch. And, don't just blow that idea off. I've seen that exact problem before.

[SEAHORSE]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1niceBlazer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Could it be something not associated with your engine that caused your motor to shut down at 60 mph? If the computer doesn't show anything I would assume you didn't get any lights or horns and the motor didn't go into S.L.O.W. mode.
</TD></TR></TABLE>


Very good point!

Did the dealer tech do any troubleshooting to determine that the EMM is bad?

Don't forget that a fuel restriction or air leak in the boat's fuel system will result in a lowering of fuel pressure to the injectors, and the motor will stop instantly, just like turning off the keyswitch. EFI and DFI engines do not act like a carbureted motor when there is a reduction of fuel, they just quit.

[TMF]

I had that happen to me too, where it just quit while cruising. It was just after launching the boat and I forgot to prime the bulb. That was the only time it did it.

[rudetech1]

If the battery connection is faulty, the EMM can shut down at any time .

[Jason Phillips]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SEAHORSE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Very good point!

</TD></TR></TABLE>

WOW!!! I am honored with that response! There was nothing 'Professional SmartA$$' about that!

[SEAHORSE]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1niceBlazer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

WOW!!! I am honored with that response! There was nothing 'Professional SmartA$$' about that! </TD></TR></TABLE>


That's where the "professional" part kicks in !!!!!!!

[Jason Phillips]

Ok. I see now.

[chugbug20X]

The problem started out with a check engine light on there was no RPM restiriction.The boat was taking back to the dealer the codes came up water in the fuel the fuel was tested two different ways and found no water. The sensor and fuel filters one in the boat and one in the motor alarm still came on. The last thing they did was disconnect something near the fuel filter and it still came on with the same code. All this time they said it was all right to run the boat. On wednesday this week they check the wire harness and a BRP rep was there and said to send it

[SEAHORSE]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chugbug20X &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The problem started out with a check engine light on there was no RPM restiriction.The boat was taking back to the dealer the codes came up water in the fuel the fuel was tested two different ways and found no water. The sensor and fuel filters one in the boat and one in the motor alarm still came on. The last thing they did was disconnect something near the fuel filter and it still came on with the same code. All this time they said it was all right to run the boat. On wednesday this week they check the wire harness and a BRP rep was there and said to send it</TD></TR></TABLE>


When did you have it quit on you at 60 mph, before or after the "water in fuel" codes?

By the way, there is no sensor for a fuel restriction on your engine so a CHECK ENGINE lite would always mean something else.

[chugbug20X]

After, it was the last thing that happing before they took out the EEM i had to keep bringing it back to the water to see if they had found the problem don't know why they just didn't put it on the ears

Sorry what i meant was they change the sensor that goes inside the little fuel filter inside the motor and change the water fuel separator in the back of the boat

[rayz379]

Even though you are having some troubles and I am sure it is irritating, be thankfull at least that they are putting both feet forward and making steps to correct it. From what I have seen BRP is second to none in warranty repairs compared to some of the competition (from what I hear and read only, no personal experience). Although it would be nice for new stuff to NOT break, it is virtually impossible for that. I worked for Chrysler for 10 yrs in new car dealership, trust me on this, ALL new stuff can and will break at times. From what I have experienced, when old breaks it is irritating and cost you lots of "$$$" at times, when new breaks it is irritating and cost you "time" at times

[rudetech1]

Still puttin' my money on a low voltage code.

[Dae]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rudetech1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Still puttin' my money on a low voltage code.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Steve,

I'm confused with with your thought. How can there be a low voltage problem with the battery the way these motors are designed?

- Dae

[rudetech1]

Not a low voltage issue per say. Bad conection at the battery arcing. It still has a computer, so intermittent connections can still affect the performance. It's those darned wing nuts! Even though the EMM works off of the 55 volt system, intermittent contact at the battery causes the charging system to flutter which will bring the overall voltages up and down, especially at WOT. The EMM is the best thing since bon ami but it still is vulnerable to loose battery connections.

[Bassmeister]

In other words, if ya got the wing nuts still,get rid of em and get nylock nuts or at least a regular nut and lock washer and tighten em down good,remembering you are dealing with posts made of lead.

[chugbug20X]

Nylock nuts on all 4 batteries