Motor Issue adjusting the IDLE

[Blacktri99]

Long story short I bought a used boat and it was very hard to start, I have run the boat a few times, when I went to investigate why it was hard to start I took off the cover and found several issues, 1. most of the fuel lines had zip ties instead of clamps causing a leaking gas issue, 2. the fuel lines were crimpped in 2 places.

Okay spent Saturday & Sunday replacing zip ties with true clamps, and replacing re-running fuel lines.

Now the issue:
Tried to start the boat, and wahlah, it started immeadiatly, but the rpm started to rev up to 2000-2300 and I am not able to get the idle back down, I have adjusted the idle adj, and I am at a loss.

My engine is a 1989 Evinrude 110hp TE110TLCEM and I am hoping that someone can help me figure out how to slow this down.

Any help would be apprieciated.

Lessions learned... Always have a qualified mech check out a used boat.. I still love my boat but would have probibly negogiated a reduced amount.

Jim

[lkhartwl]

first off clamps can and do tighten with vibration that is why they use tie wraps on lines as they do NOT cut thru the lines as a clamp can and do. if you had replaced the tie wraps and pulled tight they would have worked fine especially if you had gotten new lines and with a 1989 motor I would and as most would have said to do., 2 ) if you ran the motor on muffs in the yard there is no back pressure on the motor hense the hi rpms, take the motor to the lake and have a certified tech check it out and adjust the rpms. with the back pressure it will run more normal than on the muffs.
as for a lower amount for the boat minor things like that are normal especially with the age of the boat, motor and also if it had been sitting up for a while. just be happy that the engine did not blow on the first outing and the cost of a rebuild would be added to the cost and as most laws are if you bought it used or from a private party no warranty unless stated in the bill of sale.

[Blacktri99]

Thanks for that info, I did not know that regarding the tie straps, I have always been around High performance racing engines and we always needed to clamp off the lines due to pressure. I did have fuel leaking from several lines so that is why I changed out the straps to clamos.

Jim

[Johnnielund]

Those fuel line clamps that look like zip ties, are really special zip ties that have the correct radius of the line they are clamping molded in them. They should, by no means, be replaced with ordinary hardware store zip ties. My guess is, that was the reason for the leaks.
Go to your BRP dealer for the correct ones.
Good luck!

[Blacktri99]

NO, These were the normal zipties (The 4" long ones your would bundle wire up with), Not the ones your referring to round with a few teeth on them.

Jim

[Johnnielund]

I know there are at least two different sizes of these clamps (cable ties). The two part numbers I have had occasion to use are as follows. 0317893 and 0320107
They look like normal black plastic cable ties, until you take a close look. The part of the tie that holds the locking mechanism has a radius molded on the underside that contacts the hose. As the free end is threaded through the locking end and pulled up tight, a leak-proof 360 degree seal is created.

[Bassmeister]

Johnnielund is right.