Trying to replace seals. Can anyone help?
Trying to replace seals. Can anyone help?
Please tell us what you are working on !!!
HP, model and serial will get you answers.
John N
you will need a multi purpose puller (you can get at auto parts store for under $20) and some threaded rods with washers and nuts.
I was there helping Toby. We finally got it. He has a 1996 Evinurude 225 model number e225stlede. The carrier group was in the lower unit. We are now trying to figure out how to get the seals out of this now? Looks like we need another tool or maybe the all purpose puller? Also, we were trying to drop the lower unit. It seemed to get caught on something and we couldn't get it more than about 3 inches down? Anyone know what we were not doing right?
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by Blanked Again »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">I was there helping Toby. We finally got it. He has a 1996 Evinurude 225 model number e225stlede. The carrier group was in the lower unit. We are now trying to figure out how to get the seals out of this now? Looks like we need another tool or maybe the all purpose puller? Also, we were trying to drop the lower unit. It seemed to get caught on something and we couldn't get it more than about 3 inches down? Anyone know what we were not doing right?</td></tr></table>
did you unhook the shifter shaft under the carb area..have you pulled the carrier out of the housing yet?
Need a seal puller to remove them, gasket sealer, two seals, an O ring for the front of the carrier, RTV to seal the front, and a seal driver. Triple guard grease (BRP grease), may as well replace the water pump while it is off. There is also a seal under the water pump that is on the drive shaft bearing housing that should be replaced as well. Don't forget to replace the two nylon washers on the fill/drain plug and vent plug for a proper job.
Remember that the seals go back to back in the carrier.
Hmm, this sounds and felt like what we needed to do? Yes we got the carrier out.
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by hulapopr »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">
did you unhook the shifter shaft under the carb area..have you pulled the carrier out of the housing yet?</td></tr></table>
you can borrow/buy a little slide hammer tool at an autozone store to get the seals out. hope you bought the complete seal kit, lots of gaskets, may as well replace them all.
when you get it all back together you have to set the shift rod height by threading, rod up or down so gears mesh in forward or reverse and spin freely in nuetral.
I hope you get a seal driver to install them properly or you are going to waste 20.00 by ruining the seal. Shift rod height is critical not a hummmm looks close.
i like to adjust my shift rod height by taking the lower unit on and off 5 or 10 timesI used a sliding type drywall square to measure it didnt work that well. I believe I used a big socket to drive the shaft seals in. none off this seemed that hard when i was doing it sounds more complicated explaining it. just make sure all surfaces are clean and smooth and aluminum is soft so dont try any srewdriver prying or jabing around bearing carrier.
as you explain it I would use your process over and over.
.
worked for me, not rocket science
Yes he bought the whole kit of seals. But I don't think he wants to attempt dropping the lower unit again. It seems like every time we try to do something, we find out what tools we don't have like we knew we needed a seal driver but didn't get a seal puller.
What else might we run into if I talk him into dropping the lower unit?
How will we be able to tell if we have the rod adjusted to the right height?
the shift rod height was a big pain for me as I did not have the proper measurement tool. you measure it while in nuetral from the case up to the hole in the top of the shift rod. you can try to measure yours before you unscrew it , but if your off by 1/16 of an inch you will not shift into gear. to long and it wont go into forward to short wont go into reverse. you can check it without running the motor, just put in gear and turn the prop. I got mine close and had to take back off again to turn shift rod about 360 degrees.
A quick, easy,and cheap shift rod height tool can be made from a yardstick. Use a drill press for a straight hole, 3/16", and use a couple of washers, nuts, and a long #10 screw. Remember that it has to be accurate within 1/32 of an inch.
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A Technical troubleshooter possessing more tools than talent !
Listening to them talk about getting the shift rod back in perfect, and I'm reminded about how beautifully it shifts now and think why fix whats not broke. I got a slide hammer yesterday, so we are all set for pulling the seals. I understand that it's better to do everything since we have it apart, but I'm ready to go fishing and my wife isn't going to let me spend much more money on my boat this year, so I'm scared what we might run into if we continue
. So I'm thinking, all that other stuff was working fine, but if you guys think I should go the distance with this job I will.
I wouldn't worry about the O ring under the shift rod unless you run in salt H20. Replace the two seals on the RBC and the O ring. Then replace the seal on the drive shaft bearing and the O ring that is on it. Put a coat of RTV on the front side of the RBC and install it. Fill it and go fishing.
Ok, guys, can't get the 2 seals that are back to back out of the rear bearing carrier group. How do we get these out. Seal puller didn't work. Should we heat?
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