86 Evinrude 150 HP Bogging down

[KenH]

When I put my boat in at the boat ramp and idle out past the no wake zone I put the throttle down and it comes out of the hole great and runs great across the lake. I stop the boat and fish awhile get ready to leave and when I put the throttle down it just boggs down like it is flooded. It does not die it is just like there is no power but after starting it and stopping it it will finally come out of the hole and run real good until I stop again. It also does this at the boat ramp when I am loading it. I will put it up on the trailer and then give it the throttle to move it the last little bit and have know power it just boggs down. I have 85-90 psi on every cylinder. What would cause this, is the back wash flooding out the motor?

[ChampioNman]

Cause is chitty fuel.

[KenH]

I am using premium with Sta-bil and Seafoam in it what do you suggest?

[DoferGofer]

Hello Ken,

Check you fuel primer bulb and read the article on this link, it could be helpful.

http://continuouswave.com/whal....html

[316jughead]

With todays gas and the heat you have been having you may have to ease into the throttle and then hammer down. Get a good service manual and do a sync and link check, set the idle pick up timing at 8 degrees BTDC, the carbs should start to open with the carb roller centered on and touching the short embossed mark on the timing arm. Just like the manual will show. Now comes the fine tune, it is better if the timing mark advances just ahead of the carbs opening than the carbs opening first or ahead of the timing. Sometimes it is so hard to see. Now I mean ever so slightly ahead of the carbs opening. This will give you a couple of more degrees of timing before the carbs open. I had to do this on some motors to stop the problem your having. But as Champ said Chitty fuel.

[DoferGofer]

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by 316jughead &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">With todays gas and the heat you have been having you may have to ease into the throttle and then hammer down. Get a good service manual and do a sync and link check, set the idle pick up timing at 8 degrees BTDC, the carbs should start to open with the carb roller centered on and touching the short embossed mark on the timing arm. Just like the manual will show. Now comes the fine tune, it is better if the timing mark advances just ahead of the carbs opening than the carbs opening first or ahead of the timing. Sometimes it is so hard to see. Now I mean ever so slightly ahead of the carbs opening. This will give you a couple of more degrees of timing before the carbs open. I had to do this on some motors to stop the problem your having. But as Champ said Chitty fuel. </td></tr></table>
Hi Jerry,
His problem is intermittent during the course of his outing. His fuel is "Chitty" full time not intermittent. If he does a correct link and sync, idle pick up timing takes care of itself. I have never seen a method or spec. for idle timing on that particular engine.

[316jughead]

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by DoferGofer &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">
Hi Jerry,
His problem is intermittent during the course of his outing. His fuel is "Chitty" full time not intermittent. If he does a correct link and sync, idle pick up timing takes care of itself. I have never seen a method or spec. for idle timing on that particular engine.



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Hi, as I read his post I took it that the first time he took off the boat ran fine, after that every time it would bog down, very common with Chitty fuel and heat soak. The OMC service manuals on these motors have very detailed disriptions and pictures on sync and link including how to set the idle timing. Idle timing is set on this motor at 7 degrees plus or minus one degree.

[DoferGofer]

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by 316jughead &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">

Hi, as I read his post I took it that the first time he took off the boat ran fine, after that every time it would bog down, very common with Chitty fuel and heat soak. The OMC service manuals on these motors have very detailed disriptions and pictures on sync and link including how to set the idle timing. Idle timing is set on this motor at 7 degrees plus or minus one degree. </td></tr></table>
Yes, I read the same as you. I am not familial with a heat soak problem on engines in this time frame. As I have own my 1985 XP150 since first installed on my boat when brand new. However, I have heard of heat soak problems with the 60 degree faststrikes and intruders. Nevertheless, I am referring to my complete Ken Cook manual for my 1985 XP150 and cannot find the specs. on idle timing that you are referring to, if I am wrong for giving the wrong advice, please forgive me. At any rate, this basically the way I have been tuning my engine because Test Wheels are hard to come by these days.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=228183

Have a nice day and keep in touch.

[316jughead]

I don't know about heat soak with these motors either, I know we didn't have that problem when they were new. The first V6 cross flow motors had a real bogging down problem, not so much with your year of motor, but some. Surface gap spark plugs caused some of that problem, I would install L77JC4 and later on VRO motors QL77JC4, and do the sync and link as I described and it would stop the bogging down on most motors. Your "complete" Ken Cook manual must have how to set the idle timing as this is the first step in sync and link. The idle is set by the timing. I think that when the article you referred to said the idle timing will take care of itself, really means that wide open timing will not change the idle timing. Did you ever have to rebuild the motor because of "coking", (carbon build up on the rings)? That was the worst problem with these motors.

[DoferGofer]

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by 316jughead &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote"> Did you ever have to rebuild the motor because of "coking", (carbon build up on the rings)? That was the worst problem with these motors.</td></tr></table>
No sir, the engine has never been rebuilt. However, I have replaced every electronic device, except the spark plug wires and coils. I even had to re-glue the flywheel magnets. To satisfy my curiosity, I pulled the heads and the exhaust cover plate to check on this so called carbon problem. Cleaned the top of the pistons and the combustion chamber on the heads and and sprayed seafoam all over the rings and cleaned the exhaust section. Everything looked good before and after the tear down. The top of the pistons looked the worst of all. Just click on the picture and you will see all of the pictures.

[img][/img]

[KenH]

Thanks for all the information. I hope it is the problem with the bulb. I just got this back from shop and had the carbs gone thru and just about every electrical part replaced. I know they did do the sink and link on the motor when the had it. It ran and never had this issue when it was hooked up to the Dyno. It has only done it at the lake.

[316jughead]

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by KenH &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">Thanks for all the information. I hope it is the problem with the bulb. I just got this back from shop and had the carbs gone thru and just about every electrical part replaced. I know they did do the sink and link on the motor when the had it. It ran and never had this issue when it was hooked up to the Dyno. It has only done it at the lake.</td></tr></table>

That's good info on the bulb. I found it very hard to duplicate the bogging down and jumping out of gear issues on the dyno, even cranked all the way down could not put enough load on the motor. Not always but very often.

[316jughead]

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by DoferGofer &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">
No sir, the engine has never been rebuilt. However, I have replaced every electronic device, except the spark plug wires and coils. I even had to re-glue the flywheel magnets. To satisfy my curiosity, I pulled the heads and the exhaust cover plate to check on this so called carbon problem. Cleaned the top of the pistons and the combustion chamber on the heads and and sprayed seafoam all over the rings and cleaned the exhaust section. Everything looked good before and after the tear down. The top of the pistons looked the worst of all. Just click on the picture and you will see all of the pictures.

[img][/img]

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Wow! That's great Melvin, you must have warmed the motor up real good before taking off. How often do you decarb? Have you run any fuel additives? As for the "so called" carbon build, up this was the reason OMC developed Carbon Guard and TCW3 oil. It was because of the changes in gasolene. I have no idea how many 1980's V6 cross flow motors I rebuilt because of stuck rings. Lots of them.

[DoferGofer]

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by 316jughead &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">

Wow! That's great Melvin, you must have warmed the motor up real good before taking off. How often do you decarb? Have you run any fuel additives? As for the "so called" carbon build, up this was the reason OMC developed Carbon Guard and TCW3 oil. It was because of the changes in gasolene. I have no idea how many 1980's V6 cross flow motors I rebuilt because of stuck rings. Lots of them. </td></tr></table>
To be honest, I never decarb or used additives prior to 2003, I always thought it was just a dealer gimmick to make a boat owner spend more money. Now, I always use the best oil that OMC offered and greased the fitting changed the lower unit oils every year. The only engine I ever changed the water pump was on my XP150. My first engines was a three cylinder 60 hp Johnson bought used, don't remember what year engine it was, and a 1973 115 hp Johnson I bought new. The need for speed inspired me to buy the XP150 in 1985, not because of any problems with my older engines. Ran the new motor from 1985 to 1988, then the boat was put on the back burner until 2003. That is when I bought a new boat and put the old XP on it and suffered through some revival pains with the electronic. Other than the electrical, she has been running great for the past seven years. After pulling the heads and exhaust cover plate, I now use seafoam in my gas use XD 50 and a few gallons of XD 100 during boating season and decarb once a year.

[316jughead]

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by DoferGofer &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">
To be honest, I never decarb or used additives prior to 2003, I always thought it was just a dealer gimmick to make a boat owner spend more money. Now, I always use the best oil that OMC offered and greased the fitting changed the lower unit oils every year. The only engine I ever changed the water pump was on my XP150. My first engines was a three cylinder 60 hp Johnson bought used, don't remember what year engine it was, and a 1973 115 hp Johnson I bought new. The need for speed inspired me to buy the XP150 in 1985, not because of any problems with my older engines. Ran the new motor from 1985 to 1988, then the boat was put on the back burner until 2003. That is when I bought a new boat and put the old XP on it and suffered through some revival pains with the electronic. Other than the electrical, she has been running great for the past seven years. After pulling the heads and exhaust cover plate, I now use seafoam in my gas use XD 50 and a few gallons of XD 100 during boating season and decarb once a year.



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