Decarb first or replace recirc. valves first?

[John Whiteker]

I think I'm going to break down and finally purchase all 6 recirc. valves for my 1986 XP150. The cheapest I found them is about $12.50 ea. The parts guy tells me that I can get to all of them if I pull the carbs. Some people told me just to do the outside three, others tell me I might as well do them all.

I was just wondering if I should decarb first or if I should get those valves done first, then decarb? Or does it even matter?

I'd also like a few ideas on the best method for decarbing. I've never done it.

[ChampioNman]

John,
Glad you are doing some maintennance to a great motor! Them old Crossflows are about bullet proof and pretty easy to work on once you understand them. . I would suggest a gradual treatment of Seafoam via the gas tank to loosen up the gunk. Then a treatment of BRP engine tuner. Then replace the recirc valves and use new hose. Also if the primer solenoid doesn't have the tan gasket and the shrader valve now would be a good time to add this fix to the system so you can spray Tuner with out pull off the air box cover. . Then install the new recirc valves and new spark plugs.

[25xs]

Any E/J dealer should have these on the shelf if you need to upgrade the gasket from black to tan or the red lever from "just a lever" to the Schraeder valve injector lever on your primer solenoid.

437228 Cap & gasket
175158 Schraeder valve

[John Whiteker]

Thanks for the info. Championman. Could I get a couple more questions answered though. Sorry if I seem dense... I just want to do it right. Would I add the Seafoam and burn it off here with muffs attached, or take it to the lake and burn it off. I know the stuff smokes pretty bad usually. You said do a gradual treatment of the Seafoam into the tank... do you mean over several outings? I ask because I pretty much have to fix this thing in the driveway before I feel comfortable even putting it back on the lake. It fouls plugs in a matter of minutes and I don't want to be stranded. Last time it was dropping cylinders and I didn't think I was going to make it back.

I'd like to know what type or part # of hose to use. I know when I was asking the dealer last time, they didn't know if it was an all purpose hose or what. I used to sell auto parts and I know that you wouldn't want to just use vaccum hose or any typical rubber hose for fuel applications.

[John Whiteker]

25XS,

Thanks for the reply. I'm pretty sure I understand what you're telling me to look for and what to get. If I get my boat back home and tear into it and have any questions, I'll look you up. Hopefully I'll get started on it this weekend. My parts should be in tomorrow I believe.

Also, no one commented on replacing three or six valves at a time. I'm going to assume then that I should do all six of them.

[Bassmeister]

[DoferGofer]

All six & new hoses and if the little connectors are bent buggered replace em all.
That is what I done to my old baby and she will idle all day. Sometime I never turn the engine off from Launch to dock for a four or five hour crabbing spree.

[DoferGofer]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 25xs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Any E/J dealer should have these on the shelf if you need to upgrade the gasket from black to tan or the red lever from "just a lever" to the Schraeder valve injector lever on your primer solenoid.

437228 Cap & gasket
175158 Schraeder valve
</TD></TR></TABLE>

25xs you hit the spot. I have been aiming to make this conversion for months and kept putting it off. Thanks to you for the part numbers and the original poster. I just got back home from Intercoastal Marina with my upgrade injector lever and cap & tan gasket. Truly an economical upgrade

Thanks to all

[John Whiteker]

Thanks for the tips guys. I did the decarb. with the seafoam mixture and I fogged the neighborhood. It really seemed to break some crud loose and cleaned my plugs off. I got spooked about the Sync. and Link, with not having the wheel to go in place of the prop, and not having a convienient spot to submerge my unit, so I broke down and finally took it to my local dealer with my concerns. I just don't want to trash this outboard from a stupid mistake. Hopefully they don't stroke me too hard, and get my baby running even better. It should be back this week, so I'll post an update on what my problems were and how well they fixed it. I left a detailed letter to the mechanic with all of my info. I hope this helps save him some time, knowing that there's fresh fuel, just decarbed, what oil I'm currently using, what I'm experiencing, etc.