Livewell drain is really hard to open and close...what should I do?

[Derwood]

The drain in one of my wells (the one I use the most) doesn't open and shut very easily... in fact, it's down right hard to turn the level... Do I need redo that whole cable or is there a simple adjustment to make it open and close easier? I had an older Pro V a few years ago and when the back well had the same issue, I was able to "leak" a little oil into the the sheathing, but I'm not sure if it really helped or if it was just in my head. Anyway, couldn't get any oil in this one...

[ssimpala71]

Hey Darrin its likely the cable is bad. Remove the cable from the valve if you can get to it and see if it works freely then. A lot of Champs for some reason get the cable pinched between the foam and the fuel tank and will definitely make it hard to open and close. Also could have debris in the valve itself such as scales,crayfish parts, ect.

[sarmst100]

Mine filled up with sand once from beaching it and I broke the lever on the valve trying to force it open. Have you noticed any sand in the livewell?

[Champ193]

I broke the handle on mine as well last month. Can you replace only the handle or do you have to replace the whole cable ?

[Derwood]

I haven't noticed any sand. It worked pretty good when I bought it, but has gradually gotten worse. When I get a chance, I'll pull the batteries and get a look at it and see if it moves better when disconnected. If so, that means I need a new cable, I think. Do I just go to any dealer and ask for one, or do I need to get a specific one from ChampioN? Sounds like it should be a pretty easy fix, right?

[R1Peacock]

Go to Flow Rite's online store.


https://www.flow-rite.com/stor....html


Prices for individual parts

Actuator Switch "Open / Close" #RK-1 $15.05
New Cable 6-10 Foot Long $8.10
Valve "Open / Close" #V-1 $28.35

[Derwood]

Thank you R1... have you done this before? Easy ... ? Difficult???

[R1Peacock]

I think the biggest problem you will have is pulling the batteries, charger, oil tank, etc. to gain access to the area.

Unhook the cable and see if you can manually move the arm on the valve. It should be smooth and easy. If not it is the valve that is causing the problem. Flow Rite sells a rebuild kit for under $10 or you can just swap out the old valve for a new one for under $30. The valves do go bad. The rubber seals dry up which will cause them to leak or be hard to open and close. Fill up your livewells with some water 1st and close the valve. If water leaks out of the drain hole at the rear of the boat the seals are getting old and you might as well install a new valve anyway.

If the valve moves free and seals fine than the cable or actuator switch is bad. To replace the cable electric tape the new cable to the end of the old cable and pull it through from the actuator hole slowly.

More than likely I bet it is the valve causing the problem.

[Derwood]

Lucky for me, the one that is bad is on the side opposite the oil tank. So for now, I only have to pull the batteries Sounds like a job I can handle.. thanks for the details... you too Brian!!

[Derwood]

I was able to get at my valve for the livewell today. Only had to remove the charger to get at it. I didn't remove the cable from the valve, but I was able to get my left hand on the lever on the valve and my right hand on the switch above the well and they moved pretty easily together. Smooth to and from both stops... not hard to move, but certainly not as easy to move as the other one. I zipped a little spray lubricant on the cable when it was all the way out and worked it in as much as I could. Helped a little, maybe... Are you guys thinking acuator or valve or cable or all of the above? It doesn't look difficult to swap out all of them, just tedious with the two ends of hose and those hose clamps to get on just right in such a tight spot.