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  1. 03-12-2014, 06:26 AM #1
    mikesxpress
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    Lightbulb Turbo lube how to change oil the easy way.

    Posts keep showing up where guys are trying to fill these hubs thru a hole. PIA.


    Turbo lube hub bearing check and lube change
    50Wt racing oil per TDE specs.
    Get a piece of glossy coated cardboard 16” long by 6” wide for a drain chute from the hub to the drain pan.



    Have the wheel you are working on off the ground and check for bearing play.


    Trailer aide plus

    Pre-load the bearings to at
    least 45 ft./lbs. Use an oscillating motion when
    applying torque to the castle nut to ensure that the
    bearings fully seat. Once the bearings have set,
    loosen the castle nut. Hand, tighten the castle nut
    until resistance is felt by the bearings. Insert cotter
    pin, and bend cotter pin around the castle nut.
    IMPORTANT: After hand tightening, if the cotter
    pin hole is covered by one of the notches on the
    castle nut, loosen the castle nut to the previous
    notch; do not tighten to the next castle nut notch.

    Easy oil fill method:
    *This will put the exact amount of oil in the hub which could be seen on the clear hubs
    with level lines but most are black now and you can't see the level.

    On the turbo lube hub units, with O-ring assembled
    over turbo lube cap, fill the entire Turbo Lube cap with
    50wt racing oil. Hint: To prevent spilling oil, before filling the cap
    with oil, check that the cap will thread onto the hub.
    If the cap will not thread onto the hub, check that the
    assembled cotter pin is not creating interference with
    the turbo lube cap, and that the threads on both the
    cap and hub are not damaged. Take screw on cap and align threads with threads on
    hub so that when you tilt it up to the face of the hub the threads would engage.



    With the turbo lube cap filled with oil, position
    the cap perpendicular to the hub with the top thread of
    the cap lined up with the bottom thread of the threaded
    hub. Flip cap up 90 degrees and thread the cap onto
    the hub. If done correctly, no oil should spill from the
    cap. Torque cap to 20 to 30 ft/lbs.
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  2. Senko208
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    #2 03-12-2014, 12:55 PM
    Good info
    JASON BLOODSWORTH

    RANGER 188 VS-YAMAHA 150

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  3. Carlos H
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    #3 03-12-2014, 05:39 PM
    Pinned, thanks Mike
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  4. MattyP
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    #4 03-12-2014, 06:33 PM
    Thanks Mike, i was soon to ask you or Carlos about tips on this. Figured there would be something here !
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  5. huntingnick
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    #5 03-12-2014, 06:39 PM
    Glad to learn this filling tip. Beats the heck out of the way I was doing it.
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  6. Bassmaster2003
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    #6 03-12-2014, 09:00 PM
    Might have to try this being that I stripped the brass Allen screws on the hub and CANNOT REMOVE THEM WHATSOEVER!!. Does this work for all Turbo Lube hubs? In particular an '06 tandem trailer for a Z20?? I said F#*k it and was ready to buy some vortex hubs in two weeks until I read this thread!!

    Thanks!!!!
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  7. n2bassn
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    #7 03-12-2014, 09:46 PM
    Is the cap on a vault hub threaded?
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  8. Bassmaster2003
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    #8 03-12-2014, 10:26 PM
    Not sure. I don't even know if the Turbo Libe is threaded. I never paid attention.
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  9. mikesxpress
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    #9 03-13-2014, 05:07 AM
    The cap on the turbo lube hub is threaded. Once you do it this way one time you will be surprised at how easy this is.

    I still have some doubts about the Vortex hubs. They are pushing mait. free for 5 years. That would mean that you would be running grease/oil thru the bearings with suspended wear particles for that time. Hummm? I believe I want to change my oil out a couple times a year and rid the hub assy of the majority of these wear particles a couple times a year.
    Last edited by mikesxpress; 03-13-2014 at 05:15 AM.
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  10. Fat Basser
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    #10 03-13-2014, 07:36 AM
    Great info. I will soon be inviting you over to do mine
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  11. Bassmaster2003
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    #11 03-27-2014, 10:41 PM
    UPDATE:

    I was hesitant about trying this, but as I said earlier, I stripped the Allen head screws on the hub so I decided duo give it a try. Let me say that this was by far the easiest method to change oil!!!! I had to run to lowes to get a pair of channel locks 12" size I think it was because the screw caps were on there tight! Once I jacked up the trailer, took the wheels off. I had to use a hammer turned upside down and placed under one of th lugs to use as leverage while unscrewing the sit glass cap. Be very careful and make sure that the trailer is secure and that you don't exert too much force. Once the screw cap has been freed, slide a pan or bucket underneath and unscrew all the way. The oil will drain out. Allow about 25-30 minutes for it to drain ( you can do both wheels on both side at the same time) once it's fully drained, add you new oil. I use Lucas hub oil. It's 90 wt I think and super thick. Follow the same proceed th aught OP stated and man it works! Hope this eases someone else who was wanting to try this method but was unsure.
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  12. mikesxpress
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    #12 03-28-2014, 04:12 AM
    staples_easy_button-210868.jpg
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  13. Jeff Hahn
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    #13 03-28-2014, 11:26 AM
    Does this method work on the hubs that are supposed to be completely full of oil and where the sight glass has to be hammered in place? Seems to me it would help get at least part of the oil in the hubs...the rest would have to be put in by hand.
    "The man of system is apt to be very wise in his own conceit; and is often so enamored with the supposed beauty of his own ideal plan of government that he cannot suffer the smallest deviation from any part of it…He seems to imagine that he can arrange the different members of a great society with as much ease as the hand arranges the different pieces upon a chessboard.” Adam Smith, The Theory of Moral Sentiments
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  14. sooner magic
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    #14 03-28-2014, 12:16 PM
    I to stripped the allen screw plug. I had a bearing problem so that ment removing the hub assembly. First I made a cap removal tool out of 3/4 plywood that worked perfect. If I were smart enough to post pictures I would share it with you all. I can take pic's with my phone and text or send to E-mail but can't figure out how to post to here. Oh well, after removing old bearings I drilled the stripped screw plug out and replaced. After replacing bearings, races and seal and before I reinstalled I put Lucas hub oil on bearings and seal area then placed on spindle. It was taking for ever to fill the hub through the tiny plug hole with Lucas hub oil (STP) the wife suggested heating it up in hot water. She was so right, went in much better. I also used high tempt. gasket sealer on the screw plug and plastic cap. Pulled the boat down to the St. Johns river and back this past week-end (200 miles), so far, all is well.
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  15. Carlos H
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    #15 03-30-2014, 06:00 AM
    Jeff, I do not think so.

    Sooner, send me the pics and I will post.
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  16. mikesxpress
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    #16 03-30-2014, 06:25 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Hahn View Post
    Does this method work on the hubs that are supposed to be completely full of oil and where the sight glass has to be hammered in place? Seems to me it would help get at least part of the oil in the hubs...the rest would have to be put in by hand.
    Not going to work with the press fit covers.
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  17. Jeff Hahn
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    #17 03-30-2014, 10:27 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by Carlos H View Post
    Jeff, I do not think so.

    Sooner, send me the pics and I will post.
    I didn't think so either, but thought I would ask.
    "The man of system is apt to be very wise in his own conceit; and is often so enamored with the supposed beauty of his own ideal plan of government that he cannot suffer the smallest deviation from any part of it…He seems to imagine that he can arrange the different members of a great society with as much ease as the hand arranges the different pieces upon a chessboard.” Adam Smith, The Theory of Moral Sentiments
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  18. Carlos H
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    #18 03-31-2014, 05:56 PM
    COOL idea from Sooner on the cover removal tool!!

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