99 Evinrude 50hp 4 stroke temp/light problems

[Splitshot]

I have twin 1999 Evinrude 50hp 4 stroke (E50PL4EES) engines. Last week on the way back in the water/temp light came on(port engine). I shut it down and came in on one. The next morning (14hrs later)got up and went to check it out, turned on the key, guage went through light check and the water\temp light lit, buzzer sounded. Turned off the key and pulled the cowling off to check motor and it was still cool from sitting all night. Turned key back on again, guage light check and all normal now. Started port engine and within 2 minutes temp light and buzzer went off, Pumping water fine. Shut it down and decided to pull stat just for grins... and find a peice of the water pump impeller. Decided to go ahead and replace pumps, stats and change oil while I was at it since we've been making alot of offshore runs and not knowing what the history was.

Starboard engine water pump looked like it had been in there a while(did it first) and showed substantial wear on the bottom pump plate and memory on the pump.

Pulled the port engine water pump and it was whole and looked brand new, hardly no wear at all. Figured previous owner had this pump replaced recently after a pump failure. I've had the boat 3 months now. Finished replacing pump, changing oil and stats.

Put it back in the water and within minutes again water/temp light/buzzer comes on. Decide to start checking connections on all temp sensors, all look good. Unhooked cylinder temp sensor and still had alarm along with check engine code. Hooked it back up and unhooked exhaust temp sensor, alarm stopped just check engine code for it. I checked the sensor an hour later after it cooled off a bit with meter and it was showing 869ohms so I figure it's in the ballpark of 760 - 900ohms per the manual assuming it was around 120f or so(didn't have my trusty laser temp sensor with me).

So I had to leave it to come back to work this week and figure I start back in on it at weeks end. I'm thinking I'll start off by swapping exhaust temp sensors from port to starboard and see if the problem moves first rather than buy an uneeded sensor(but then again it would be a wasted trip if that was it).

So here it is: Am I on track ?

And why do I now see 2 blinks on the no oil lamp after turning the key on and after guage light check both engines ? Is this some sort of change oil warning ? I couldn't find anything on it.

Thanks,
Splitshot

[rudetech1]

Slipshot. Did you fix it. Did you get the manual? Did you get the codes to reset? How are we doin' now?

[Splitshot]

As I stated above everything went well(too well), I was hoping to find the water pump in that motor in pieces but that wasn't the case. It looked like it was new. So I picked up an exhaust temp sensor today, gonna make a run down Friday and see if it's an intermittent sensor.

I couldn't find anything on the 2 blinks on the no-oil light. I have a Clymers but it doesn't have anything about resetting the codes. At first it was just one engine. Now since the oil changes it's both. Any Thoughts ?

[rudetech1]

Have you tried to power down the system, take the cables loose for about 5 minutes. I will look at the manuals tomorrow, see if I can find anything.

[rudetech1]

Does the engine cut back on RPMs? The SLOW system kicks in in the event of an overheat, engine RPMs will not go passed 2500-3000. If you have no cut back on RPMs, swap the system check guages and see if the problem moves to the other engine. If it does, replace the guage. There is no reason for the oil light to blink on this model which tells me that we may have a guage problem.


Modified by rudetech1 at 7:08 AM 7/14/2006

[Splitshot]

Yes, it was hitting the SLOW mode when the Water/temp light/buzzer came on, limiting it to 3000rpms.

The No Oil light only flashes twice after it goes thru system check, then turns off like normal. I haven't been able to extract any other codes through the check engine light other than when I disconnected one of the Temp Sensors while troubleshooting.

I ran across some problems with these temp sensors, specifically exhaust temp sensors that have been eroding away in saltwater due to anode problems. I did replace the anodes on the lower unit, It looks like there is one on the side of the block as well.

[rudetech1]

If the no oil light is going off after cycling, you should be o.k. I'm suprised it hasn't done it from the start. The ECU has to look for a return signal from the sender. If it is a Faria guage( who also made OMC guages) they would occasionally beep or blink 1 or 2 extra times. It was a compatability issue. I thought the guage kept flashing, sorry, been a long week. When you check the anode on the block, look inside. There are passages that easily get blocked up.