Evinrude Ethanol Bulletin

[SC1800ETEC90]

Yamahaha (see link below) and Murkry (see link below) have put out notices on the problems with ethanol fuel. Heck even Chrysler put out one for their old outboards. (They said strain the gas and drink the grain alcohol). Has BRP put out a bulletin on ethanol fuels yet? This is a bigger problem for occasional boaters than most people realize.

With the 4th of July weekend coming up I bet there will be many stranded boaters. I have already towed in 2 this year that I think were caused by water getting the gas. Fortunately they were not out of the boat basin before the motors sucked in the water/gas mix and I only had to bring them in about ¼ mile.

Maybe these advisories from the other manufactures will help some boaters reading this post from having a serious situation.

Happy fourth to every one. Have a 5th (or a six pack ) on the 4th.

http://www.maverickboats.com/p...9.pdf
http://www.mercurymarine.com/ethanol#1365

[johnrude]

I was told by BRP that the ETEC will not have a problem. I believe it can run on up to 30% Ethanol.

[Bassin Billy]

What about my Rude HO DI?? I will not be happy if I have any problems this weekend!

[21ssextreme]

i'm told that our fuel filters have a water sensor in them and if we do get water in them to take em off throw them away and replace them...So we should probably stock up on spin on fuel filters for the rudes DI

[SC1800ETEC90]

The link to the yamahaha bulletin in the first post did not work. Try this one to get an idea of what they recommend.

http://www.maverickboats.com/p...9.pdf

[pioneer197]

From the operators guide that came with my 150 E-TEC.
and please pardon my typing skills.

Alcohol Fuels
"Your outboard has been designed to operate using the specified fuels; however, be aware of the following:"

"The boat's fuel system may have different requirements regarding the use of alcohol fuels. Refer to the boat's owner guide."

"Alcohol attracts and holds moister that can cause corrosion of metallic parts in the fuel system"

"Alcohol blended fuel may cause engine perfromacne problems."

"Using alcohol-extended fuels is acceptable ONLY if the alcohol content does not exceed:
10% ethanol by volume; or
5% methanol with 5% cosolvents by volume."

[Dae]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johnrude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was told by BRP that the ETEC will not have a problem. I believe it can run on up to 30% Ethanol. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Joe,

Knowing that Evinrude DI's and Etec's can run on a multitude of fuels (BRP builds these for the military) makes me believe the 30% is a good number, but the problem isn't the alcohol content. The problem is water when you use a Gasahol. With boats sitting extended periods of time, the Ethanol just sucks the water from the air then starts to phase separate.

Water being heavier then gas/alcohol, the motors going to just suck it right up and will shut down or in a bad situation, could cause a lean condition and go BOOM.

- Dae

[RUSTY63]

Great posts Guy's, if the fuel in your area is in question do as posted, pick up a couple of fuel filters and change as needed.

[SEAHORSE]

The FICHT's and Evinrude DI motors have water sensors in the fuel filters. Only the 3.3L E-TEC's have the water sensor, the smaller engines do not.

[E-tecRon]

Is there a way to prevent the ethanol from absorbing water over time? Or an additive that will disperse it? I am thinking that keeping the fuel tanks full would slow the process and if the boat were going to sit for a month or more without using would add Staybil to the fuel or other fuel stabilizer. This government intervention is great. Next the big gov will set up gas stations for people that don't want ethanol and will charge a tax of $14.00/gallon to get straight clean gas.

[Dae]

Seahorse,

Maybe I'm a little confused here, but it looks like you're say that that all the DI's and ETec's have the water sensor but with the non 3.3 Etecs, the sensor is built into the filter so if one were to use an after market filter, one would need to make sure it has the sensor built in. Does that sound correct??

Thanks,

- Dae

[John from IL]

Only the 3.3L E-TEC's (200 thru 250hp 90° block) have the water sensor.
The smaller E-TEC engines (40 thru 200hp 60° block) do not have a water in fuel sensor.

-John

[Dae]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by John from IL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Only the 3.3L E-TEC's (200 thru 250hp 90° block) have the water sensor.
The smaller E-TEC engines (40 thru 200hp 60° block) do not have a water in fuel sensor.

-John</TD></TR></TABLE>

John,

So what you're saying is that the Ficht's and DI's all have water sensors in same way but on the ETec's only the big block 3.3L's have a water sensor. Is that correct?


- Dae

[Dae]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by E-tecRon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is there a way to prevent the ethanol from absorbing water over time? Or an additive that will disperse it? I am thinking that keeping the fuel tanks full would slow the process and if the boat were going to sit for a month or more without using would add Staybil to the fuel or other fuel stabilizer. This government intervention is great. Next the big gov will set up gas stations for people that don't want ethanol and will charge a tax of $14.00/gallon to get straight clean gas. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ron,

From what I've been hearing and reading, there's no way to keep the Ethanol from absorbing water over time. And I'm hearing keeping a tank full is even worse then leaving little to no E10 in the tank for storage.

As for additives, I read some where that the only additive that has any affect on helping with the problem of phase separation is an enzyme based additive. The only enzyme based additive I know of is Startron (Also sold as Soltron) and I have heard from people that have used it after problems said it seems to work.

Remember this. Ethanol is not required to be used as an oxygenating additive in most of the US. It's just that our Government give BIG FAT tax breaks when refiners use it and refiners are no longer protected from law suits from MTBE. My understanding is that there are other additives but it's not cost effective for the refiners because the Ethanol tax breaks.

BTW, below is a link to a map of where reformulated (Oxygenated) gas is required. Again, Ethanol is not the only additive that can be used to oxygenate gas.

http://www.epa.gov/otaq/rfg/whereyoulive.htm


- Dae

[Nauti Buoy]

It would seem that by now installing a Racor filter is old hat to most of you. However, It's something I recently did, less than a month ago. I have a 2001 Ficht 115. Since then I've become interested in how you guys installed your Racor filter.

Did you install the Racor "before" or "after" the primer bulb? The reason I ask is that in an email I received from the sales office of the online source I bought my Racor from (http://www.marinefilters.com/racortrans.php) they specifically state (after they talked to Racor) that the Racor filter should be installed "after" the primer bulb. Yet, the instructions that came with the Racor states it should be installed "before" the bulb. I chose to follow the instructions that came with the filter and installed it "before" the bulb. What did you do?

Also, after I installed it, I filled the canister with fuel and then spun the canister on. I primed the bulb until it was hard and it started up normally (I believe due to the fuel left in the lines). After running a short while (minute or so) it started to sputter. Did this several times, then died, despite my priming the bulb. I tried starting it perhaps a half dozen times, keeping the bulb hard - nothing. Just a sputter. I let it set a while, primed the bulb again and it started after a couple more tries. It sputtered a bit, then seemed to run normal for a few more minutes. Haven't taken it out yet. Did you guys experience the same results before putting your boats on the water? I should probably back the boat in a lake and try it out before putting it on the MR or ocean, but it's a bit of a hassle with the limited access around here and the competition for launch ramps.

Your thoughts are appreciated.
Al

[Dae]

Al,

My Racors are between my fuel tank and the Primer Bulb. As for the problems your have, I have to guess, you might have a air leak since I've never had that problem.

Good luck and let us know what you find.

- Dae

[john herpfer]

there is an article about ethanol fuel the many problems associated with them as well as a few solutions in the july 6 fisherman mag
the older the boat/tank fuel lines and gasket/o rings the more apt to have a problem
the one chemical solution for the seperation water absorption they suggest is starbrite startron
its a enzyme based addative that is reported to stop the seperation AND reverse the effects of the water already in the fuel.
Im not a chemist just a conserned boater. this is what i read in a nut shell.

[SEAHORSE]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dae &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Seahorse,

Maybe I'm a little confused here, but it looks like you're say that that all the DI's and ETec's have the water sensor but with the non 3.3 Etecs, the sensor is built into the filter so if one were to use an after market filter, one would need to make sure it has the sensor built in. Does that sound correct??
</TD></TR></TABLE>


All the FICHT, Evinrude DI motors, and 3.3L E-TECs have some type of water sensor in the filter bracket, not on the filter itself. The exception is the '98 and '97 FICHTS that had a sensor that screws into the bottom of a special filter, Merc has a similar setup.