2006 175HP HPDI Yamaha ,oil will not pump up to tank on motor. I know the pump is working.The motor is not sending a signal for pump to come on.The bypass switch was never wired up also.Any Ideas. Long pull to a boat dealer!
2006 175HP HPDI Yamaha ,oil will not pump up to tank on motor. I know the pump is working.The motor is not sending a signal for pump to come on.The bypass switch was never wired up also.Any Ideas. Long pull to a boat dealer!
Did you try turning the keyswitch on first.It has to have power.I went through the same thing last weekend.
When it is running it will not pump. I put oil in the tank when the level got down and the buzzer went off and the two cly. kicked out. Filled up tank on the motor and all is well.
If you're 100% certain the remote tank oil pump is working, then I'd be looking at the sensor in the engine mounted tank that reads the oil level. I had the same problem last summer and the main oil pump on the remote tank stopped working. The pump would not work with the emergency bypass swicth either. You also could check the inline filter in the oilline running from the pump up to the motor. The filter is just past the pump on the motor side.
2002 Pathfinder 2400V
2002 Yamaha 225 OX66
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by wlcooley »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">2006 175HP HPDI Yamaha ,oil will not pump up to tank on motor. I know the pump is working.The motor is not sending a signal for pump to come on.The bypass switch was never wired up also.Any Ideas. Long pull to a boat dealer!</td></tr></table>
The manual fill switch to manually activate the in boat oil tank pump to fill the on engine oil tank "should" have been wired up at the factory. This switch "should" be right next to the on engine oil tank.
However, if the oil pump is not automatically filling the on engine tank, then you most likely have an issue with the oil level sensor switch (assuming as you said you know the oil tank pump is good).
Unfortunately I don't have a schematic PDF I can send you, but the "B" position is bad in yours from what you are saying. The "C" or lowest position is what triggers the low oil alarm which you said you are getting.
If the oil in the on engine tank is low/out, then you should see a closed circuit (continuity) if you measure the ohms between the black lead and the blue/green lead in the sensor. If it show "open" or no continuity then you will need to replace the switch.
The part is a little over $100 depending on where you find it (new).
a buddy of mine had the same trouble. apparently there is a filter under the main oil tank and his was clogged up.
"Don't be afraid to see what you see."
Ronald Reagan
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