Hey guys,Im having issues with chime walking.What causes this?
Hey guys,Im having issues with chime walking.What causes this?
it's the nature of a performance hull.........I assume this is happening in the mid-upper 70's.......to correct it will take some seat time........repeated left bumps is the best way to explain it from a keyboard........be careful not to overcorrect but it will be easier as time goes on to control........one thing to also ensure is that you are not trimming too much..........just keep practicing and using slight bumps of the steering and you will get it under control
------Co-founder of Post Derailment, LLC---------
Oh, I wish it were that easy.Mine is a 20XDC and it walks at 66. Finally had a few runs at 75 last year but I struggled. There are lots of people on here that will give advice and if you do a search, many discussions. You have to read and listen and then go try it. Good luck.
buried lower unit can cause walk also a boat that is unblanced.
It should not walk at 66 mph. Is your motor or jackplate crooked? I know we have talked about weight balance and motor height many times.
Marks Props 317-398-9294, 1850 East 225 South, Shelbyville, Indiana 46176 propellerman59@gmail.com http://www.marksprops.com/index.html
Say your boat is setup well, it will take a bit of seat time. I ran pretty much a whole summer not being able to go WOT with my 99 triton, Tell sombudy told me how to stop it. I just watch the front of the boat and when i see its going to chime i give it a lil shot of the steering wheel on the opposite side you see its going on. After a while you get the hang of it and it will come second nature. My 200ProXL i had no idea it had any chime walk tell sombudy else drove the boat and it was chiming all over the place
Just put alot of seat time in, after a while you will be able to feel it in your seat. It will become second nature and you won't even think about it anymore. It should not do it at 66 though. I can let go of my stearing wheel at almost 90. Make sure that you have the boat balanced well. That is very important.
BULLET!!
96 20xrd
2007 300xs
RG-IN-NH, i was having the same problem with my 20XDC but i had the motor all the way up on the jack plate and still did not know how to drive it properly, dropped it all the way down and got rid of the chine walking, my 15 year old got it to 76 with no chine walk. I still get in the low 80's and its fun to drive, gonna start raising the motor this summer and see what i can get it to.........but its so much fun to drive the way it is right now.
2002 20XDC
2003 250 0X66
Hey Hydrilla, How high should I have my plate set? I have a hydraulic dewiler with a 15"set back. My motor is a merc 250 pro xs with a TM gear case on a 21 XDC.
if you got a hydrolic raise it tell your about 15psi of water pressure a wot. should be good to go
It is called chinewalk... not chimewalk... The boat falls off the pad onto the chines.... Going higher on the jackplate will help , especially if you are set too deep , but , more seat time is the best way .. You will eventually develop a feel when the boat is balanced on the pad and will be able to intuitively make wheel corrections to keep it from falling off the pad... When you get up to speed and start trimming up and airing out the boat you will feel the bow get light as speed increases. At the speed where the chinewalk starts bump the trim down until the boat settles down and gradually bump it back up paying careful attention to when the chinewalk starts. When it starts you sort of saw the steering wheel back and forth a bit until you can feel you are controlling the balance on the pad... After practising this for a few hours you will be saying (what chine walk)and will get to top speed safely and easily... Pad style bassboats require driver input to make these corrections to stay on the pad meaning you can not just leave the steering wheel pointed straight and not expect the chinewalk to start... Google some of the Bullet or Stroker videos on youtube and you will see the type of steering corrections required...
Ive been driving these boats beginning at 13. Im 32 now. The best way to learn how to drive this boat is in slight curves. I dont mean in a curvy bayou but in a major water way and hold it while you trim up. When you do this it starts to hook up and you can feel the boat lift but is wont walk. You cant own this boat and always drive like that but to learn you will get the feel as others have stated. I learned on a 20 vee in the late 80s and early 90s. We had no hydrolic steering and when you got done sawing on wheel after a 45 min run you were like popeye. Remember when it starts to walk DO NOT LET OFF THE ACCELERATER!! trim it down under power. If you get off of the throttle too fast the boat falls off pad way hard and then it wants to skip like a rock! You dont want this going on. Stay in the throttle but trim it down to return to safty! I run this same hull and it is way eaiser to drive than the 20 footers but BOTH these hulls command much respect. Be careful no matter what!! TIGHTLINES!!
Sounds like you may has a 3 blade prop ..... A 4 blade was much easier to drive for me ....
I had other bass boats but when I got my bullet I had a hard time driving it at first its a PERFORMANCE HULL!!!!! It took me about 5 to 6 times out to get it right, now it's second nature, no problem at almost 86 mph...you,ll get it , seat time is what you need...
Patience you'll get there, once you get the feel of it you'll be there, just don't trim to fast unitl you get use to it, drive throught make little left to right corrections until it straightens out. Chine walk is the motor trying to push the boat off pad, it's like riding a bike once you feel it you never forget....
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