150 intruder, still same problem.

[wolflb2]

Earlier this year: 1994 150 intruder
Motor would idle and die or be very difficult to start but after gaining rpm it ran fine.
Took to one shop. After 3 weeks it was tuned, replaced carburetor bowls, replaced fuel pump. After being BS'ed on what they were doing and how long it was taking I switched shops. Motor now wont run at all.

New shop checked other work, spark was okay, compression okay, fixed one carb that stuck sometimes, fixed one valve that was working both ways (sorry can't remember the details there) and replaced some seals and gaskets. After running the spark plugs are now dry instead of wet. Motor now runs, will idle and die or be very difficult to start but after gaining rpm it runs fine, 5090 at top end and can turn more but thats out of the sweet spot on boat speed. This is a teeny bit better than where I started aback in July since it will run but you have to hit the primer (or is it a choke?) at critical times but then it will run okay. It now smokes.

I had to take it back before they got done since I was headed for vacation but they said it would work and wouldn't leave me stranded. Just hit the primer.

I'm happy with this shop, they busted their tails to get it running but 12 days wasn't enough when you have to order parts. I know they called Evinrude/Johnson 3 times and now think it may be vapor separator cover. I believe they said the vacuum should hold at 10 pounds for 20 minutes and they can't get 20 seconds and it looks like there may be a slight bow in the cover. I can't remember for sure the pounds of pressure but the time length is right.

But I doubt if it its an air leak from the cover, since during the vacation I tried to seal up the edge of the gasket on the vapor separator with electrical tape as a temporary measure but it made no difference.

I will take it back to the shop next week end so they can finish the job. The next step I assume would be to replace the whole vapor separator?

Thanks! This is a great forum.

Modified by wolflb2 at 10:02 PM 9/11/2005


Modified by wolflb2 at 10:14 PM 9/11/2005

[THE WITCHDOCTOR]

[QUOTE=wolflb2]Earlier this year: 1994 150 intruder
Motor would idle and die or be very difficult to start but after gaining rpm it ran fine.
Took to one shop. After 3 weeks it was tuned, <U>replaced carburetor bowls, </U>replaced fuel pump. After being BS'ed on what they were doing and how long it was taking I switched shops. Motor now wont run at all.


When they replaced the bowls, sounds like they might have reset the floats... maybe float level is too low causing it to be lean&gt;? just an idea... sorry for the problems, I know they get aggrivating!

[toddgot5fish]

sounds like you have a fuel flow prob . might wat to get a new BOMB primer bulb , and check something as simple as your anti-siphon valve at the tank. check line for kinks .

[wolflb2]

Thanks for the help. At the price of gas the constant dieing, priming and restarting is adding up!

Lets hope this does it!

[wolflb2]

Witchdoctor had it right.
The floats were off plus carbs set too lean. Got that fixed and it ran great, smooth as silk, for about 4 hours. This time the problem started after I put a good load on the engine after I tried to climb the trailer on a steep ramp.

Now it does almost the same thing as before but only sometimes. Starts okay and sometimes takes off okay but sometimes it will bog somewhere between 1300 and 2000 rpm. I can kind of tell by sound when its going to happen and I can just keep the idle under 1300 for 30 seconds and it will then be okay (sometimes it requires restart but not often). Warm or cold does not seem to change much,. It does smoke now after starting.

When I come off plane it always idles fine.

Can floats go out of adjustment?

[SEAHORSE]

Back then there was a service procedure that may have applied to your motor. It involved changing the bowl vent air bleed tubes on the front of each carb. Post the whole model number of the motor and I will try to research old notes. It may take a bit so be patient.

I am assuming that the motor is in good tune, good compression, clean and adjusted carbs, and the linkage is set correctly for the same throttle and spark advancement time. Sometimes opening up the idle adjustment screws one turn on the top carbs and a half turn on the bottom 2 carbs can help in your situation. Your thermostats are warming up the heads to around 140 degrees at idle, right?

[wolflb2]

Thanks Seahorse, I thought everyone would be out on the water on a Sunday. The model number is E150GLERV
The motor was given a serious going over last month by an Evinrude Tech/dealership in Missouri to get the original problem fixed. Compression was good, linkage was right, carbs given a good going over where they found the problem with the floats and being set too lean. They never said anything about the temp. so I figure it was okay then and it ran fine for a few hours. I just got back from a weeks vacation with it and this had started just before I left. The problem was consistent only in it didnt happen everytime and it never got worse.

Its 400 miles round trip to the Evinrude dealer that works on V-6s, so I like to come here so I know if its something I can get taken care of by local talent (work on black engines) or whether it needs an Evinrude tech to look at it. When I work on stuff I talk to myself, ("it 's lefty loosey but the wrench is in my right hand so which way do I turn it?")
From this I learned a long time ago that I break things and need to leave actual repairs up to people that know loosen from tighten.

[wolflb2]

bump

[ChampioNman]

Wolfie,
You running a hot foot? Re-check your throttle roller to cam adjustment. You may have to adjust your cable adjustment. Just a thought.

[SEAHORSE]

Wolflb2,

After perusing the archives containing service notes, I found a blurb in the 1997 dealer service seminar that applied to some late 1994 and early 1995 60° motors that have a problem driving up on the trailer or have a hesitation on hard acceleration, as long as the linkage adjustment and carb adjustments are in good shape. It says to drill out the high speed nozzle air bleed tubes to 0.125" if they are normally 0.098"or 0.106". This change allows the high speed nozzles to start delivering fuel sooner. Hope this helps ya.

[rudetech1]

A last thought, make sure no metal goes in the carbs or in the vent tube. Good luke and have fun!!

[wolflb2]

Thanks Seahorse! I've had the motor for 3 years and its always wanted to die getting on the trailer. Oddly enough I dont give it hard acceleration, my set up with my manual jackplate is right on the fringe of being too high for the hole shot so I just use moderate acceleration otherwise I get blow out. I really need to lower about 1/4 to 1/2 inch. From how I do run it I know that it would only hesitate and die worse with harder acceleration.

Championman, nope, no hot foot.

You guys make this the best forum on the best board on the web!

[rudetech1]

Are the gaskets behind the intake manifolds brown or black? If they are black, you have other issues to contend with.

[ChampioNman]

Don't go there . Rudey But would explain the prob if a rebuild of the carbs had been done.

[SEAHORSE]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rudetech1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are the gaskets behind the intake manifolds brown or black? </TD></TR></TABLE>


Rudey,

Don't forget that they could be a red-orange color also

[wolflb2]

Already fixed the gasket problem. Thanks guys!

[rudetech1]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SEAHORSE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Rudey,

Don't forget that they could be a red-orange color also</TD></TR></TABLE> Red/orange is brown to me. Im a bit color blind!! Also,ChampioNman kept me up past my bed time last night!!