J175GLEOM- no fire bottom 2 port cylinders

[Klawson]

Hello all,
Long time lurker that has picked up a lot of great info here. So first off thanx to you board vets. Now on to my prob: My 95 fast strike 175 has been cutting out after it's been on a few runs and warmed up. Runs good early on but after 2nd or 3rd stop it starts cutting out. itll get better after a while of idle cruising. Checked for spark with an inline spark tester(light up type). Found I was losing spark in the bottom two port side cylinders. It was there sometimes but very erratic. Top port cyl spark looked ok, as did starboard side. Visual inspection of components noted nothing obvious. New plugs and just cleaned/rebuilt carbs(issue was there before). I did the roller adjustment, though I still have slight gap. I don't have a manual yet but I am a mechanic by trade, though not on outboards.
So I figure I am looking at a couple coil packs or a power pack. Should I swap em around and see if my problem moves? I really need to get this motor back up again and cant afford to be changing good parts to diagnose. I call on you experts to help me if you can and I appreciate all input. Thanx.

[ChampioNman]

Yep move the coils first, they aren't separate like the 90* motors so they'll have to be moved as a single component. Make sure your grounds are good too.

[316jughead]

Keith, do a search for 1997 Intruder roller arm replacement. This should help with that roller gap you mentioned.

[Klawson]

Ok so with possibly 2 of 3 coil packs bad, I guess I should start with swapping out the bottom pack with the top one(which is giving spark). And then do the same with middle pack? Then if prob stays the same it would indicate PP? Am I correct here? Or missing anything? This is given that grounds and connections are ok of course.
Also with this roller linkage issue, is replacement necessary because of wear or manufacturing prob?
Thanks.

[ChampioNman]

A timing light will tell you quicker but you seemed adamant about moving parts around.

[316jughead]

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by Klawson &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">Ok so with possibly 2 of 3 coil packs bad, I guess I should start with swapping out the bottom pack with the top one(which is giving spark). And then do the same with middle pack? Then if prob stays the same it would indicate PP? Am I correct here? Or missing anything? This is given that grounds and connections are ok of course.
Also with this roller linkage issue, is replacement necessary because of wear or manufacturing prob?
Thanks. </td></tr></table>

Please read the post. He had to replace the arm because the threads were stripped. I explained how to adjust the throttle arm.

[ChampioNman]

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by 316jughead &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">

Please read the post. He had to replace the arm because the threads were stripped. I explained how to adjust the throttle arm. </td></tr></table>

I didn't see anything about replacing the roller only that an adjustment was made and he still had the gap, only smaller.

[316jughead]

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by ChampioNman &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">

I didn't see anything about replacing the roller only that an adjustment was made and he still had the gap, only smaller. </td></tr></table>

I was reffering to his question about why roller arm replacement was needed. In the post, 1997 Intruder roller arm replacement, that I told him to do a search for, The arm needed replaced, I thought that if he had read the post he would have known why. In a reply to that post I had explained how to eliminate the gap.

[Klawson]

To clarify my question, I understand his was stripped, but it seems I've seen it recommended before to replace when gap couldn't be closed. I was asking why it was necessary to replace thinking it was a somewhat common issue not necessarily due to stripping. But even after reading adjustment part I'm still a little confused. I don't have a hotfoot or Intruder motor in reference. Is my motor the same? It sounds like you were saying to adjust the throttle cable to back off arm, which in my head would widen the gap? Am I bass ackward or something?
I'm going to do more testing this weekend and I'm trying to get a game plan to attack this problem and maximize diagnostic time on the water. Hopefully I'll get this gap closed before I get her wet.

[316jughead]

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by Klawson &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">To clarify my question, I understand his was stripped, but it seems I've seen it recommended before to replace when gap couldn't be closed. I was asking why it was necessary to replace thinking it was a somewhat common issue not necessarily due to stripping. But even after reading adjustment part I'm still a little confused. I don't have a hotfoot or Intruder motor in reference. Is my motor the same? It sounds like you were saying to adjust the throttle cable to back off arm, which in my head would widen the gap? Am I bass ackward or something?
I'm going to do more testing this weekend and I'm trying to get a game plan to attack this problem and maximize diagnostic time on the water. Hopefully I'll get this gap closed before I get her wet. </td></tr></table>

Yes your motor is the same as an Intruder. I might be the one confused, by roller gap I thought you were reffering to the timing roller. If you were reffering to the carb roller, in nuetral you would have a gap. The timing arm and carbs must start to move at the same time.

[316jughead]

Your carb roller should have a clear tube over a black roller. This might be the roller replacement you read about, it is quite common with these motors. I hope I haven't confused the spark issue.

[Klawson]

The gap I'm dealing with is the timing roller. There is not really much of a gap at the carb roller. Maybe a couple sheets of paper. It seems that if I were to adjust throttle cable to adjust timing gap it would push carb roller too much and start to open carbs. I did have to replace the clear tubing on carb roller.

[316jughead]

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by Klawson &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">The gap I'm dealing with is the timing roller. There is not really much of a gap at the carb roller. Maybe a couple sheets of paper. It seems that if I were to adjust throttle cable to adjust timing gap it would push carb roller too much and start to open carbs. I did have to replace the clear tubing on carb roller. </td></tr></table>

You must first loosen the timing roller arm screw as shown in the post about 60 degree roller adjustment at the top of this board. Adjust throttle trunion making sure that you keep a little space at the carb roller, and then adjust timing roller so that the timing and carbs move at the same time. The correct way to install the throttle cable, remove cable from throttle linkage, loosen trunion nut hold down and pull trunion out of holder, shift control handle to the first indent, move handle one half way back to nuetral, pull any slack from cable without moving control handle, adjust trunion to fit in holder and reinstall hold down, move shift handle to nuetral and install the throttle linkage. Then you will be able to adjust the timing roller without any gap.

[ChampioNman]

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by 316jughead &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">

You must first loosen the timing roller arm screw as shown in the post about 60 degree roller adjustment at the top of this board. Adjust throttle trunion making sure that you keep a little space at the carb roller, and then adjust timing roller so that the timing and carbs move at the same time. The correct way to install the throttle cable, remove cable from throttle linkage, loosen trunion nut hold down and pull trunion out of holder, shift control handle to the first indent, move handle one half way back to nuetral, pull any slack from cable without moving control handle, adjust trunion to fit in holder and reinstall hold down, move shift handle to nuetral and install the throttle linkage. Then you will be able to adjust the timing roller without any gap.</td></tr></table>


TA DA!

[316jughead]

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by ChampioNman &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">

TA DA! </td></tr></table>