Transom help!

[Marooned]

Posted this in the Champion forum but thought I'd post over here too.

The transom on my '95 181 is bad. I discovered that it had gotten wet, so took everything off to try to dry it out. Also have a 6" rapid jack sitting on the floor waiting to be installed. After a couples of weeks under the lamps, I noticed that when I blew air into the transom from one of the motor bolt holes that the outer skin flexed.....not good. So I cut away a piece of the top of the transom to reveal the wood and there are at least three places where the wood is rotted away or significantly soft. Almost all of the rot/soft wood is near the outer skin and goes back thru at least the first 1/2" of ply. In some areas, the second 1/2" of ply is also soft. After contemplating and researching possible fixes, I have come to the conclusion that the only way forward is to replace the whole thing.

The expense of taking it to a fiberglass shop is out of the question. I don't have any significant experience with fiberglass work but am mechanically inclined and pick things up very fast. If I were to do this myself, what would I be looking at cost-wise (ballpark) for resins, glass mat, marine grade ply, etc? The only thing that I don't think I can do myself is any gel coat work. The rest, after doing some reading of other transom replacement posts, I think I can adequately tackle myself. I love this boat and want to keep it. Also, I don't feel it's right to pass this problem on to someone else.

If I decide to move forward, I also need to decide where to make cuts to remove the back part of the top cap so that I can get to everything.

Looking for any advice, encouragement, etc that the experts around here can offer.

Here are some pics:












Modified by Marooned at 5:48 AM 2/14/2011

[arjone01]

Here you go, this is exactly what you're looking for (seacast). Have used this, and a similar product on two boats and it is stronger than the day they left the factory and best of all, not more rot worries.

http://transomrepair.com/catalog/


Now, guys who are neigh sayers have never used, or been around this product so don't have any worries is someone comes on here bashing it, they'll make excuses based off of opinions that they no experience on.

Now, from someone who has used it with a 6" JP on a 175 2.5 L motor, and a 10" JP on a 2.5 200 motor, this stuff is magic, you can clean the wood out from the hole that you have already made, it's painstaking but not a painstaking as doing any fiberglass finish work or having to pay for that work. Then fill, and cap.

This stuff is stronger, and works great. Sure, wood is just fine, but so is seacast. Some people say that they can't believe it will hold up with no flex. Everything gives, just like wood. Those people have never used this product so their opinion is usually relevant.

Feel free to IM me with any questions.

[Tweedlyd]

I 2nd Seacast was a Doubter did my research an all decided what the heck will give it a Shot as money was an issue did jus what they say to do over at Seacast an did exactly how they did it , was a pain getting the old wood out but after that jus taped up the holes Mixed an then Poured it waalaaa easy as can b since u are Mechanically inclined should not b a problem for you an i am telling you it is Rock Hard an after 2 years running it still no transom problems holeshot was even better than b4 Solid like a Rock . To me i would do it again !!!

[Jwengerd]

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by arjone01 &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">Here you go, this is exactly what you're looking for (seacast). Have used this, and a similar product on two boats and it is stronger than the day they left the factory and best of all, not more rot worries.

http://transomrepair.com/catalog/


Now, guys who are neigh sayers have never used, or been around this product so don't have any worries is someone comes on here bashing it, they'll make excuses based off of opinions that they no experience on.

Now, from someone who has used it with a 6" JP on a 175 2.5 L motor, and a 10" JP on a 2.5 200 motor, this stuff is magic, you can clean the wood out from the hole that you have already made, it's painstaking but not a painstaking as doing any fiberglass finish work or having to pay for that work. Then fill, and cap.

This stuff is stronger, and works great. Sure, wood is just fine, but so is seacast. Some people say that they can't believe it will hold up with no flex. Everything gives, just like wood. Those people have never used this product so their opinion is usually relevant.

Feel free to IM me with any questions. </td></tr></table>


I agree with you on this. I Think these boats with the small transom ( ranger/champs and other) can use the seacast, you can really get all the wood out of the transom since you can access it well. But if you get into somthing like a skeeter or other boats that have a wide transom you cant completely remove all the wood.

[arjone01]

I'll also dig up the info I found that turned me into a believer where early 90's/late 80's two and three engine offshore baja's and donzi's are using this in 2" transoms, up to 25 gallons at a time, to make repairs, then run 60+ in sea swells in FL. Then you'll see that ANY application for a bassboat is well within the realm of this product.

When I did research there was ten fold more information on pleasure boats since this is a FL based product and there are just more applications of its use there in that boating scene. When I saw that, I laughed and realized that using it on a bassboat is a joke for what it can do.

[sarmst100]

There is also a product called Arjay 6011 that is similar to Seacast but is a little more pourable. I have used it for stinger repairs. My transom was replaced on my 99 203 back in 2005. They pulled the gas tank and removed the inner skin without cutting any of the cap (I would not let them cut it). The fuel compartment on the 203 is large, not sure about yours. It was replaced with Coosa Board which is expensive but worth it in my opinion. Check out uscomposites.com for epoxy resin, mat, etc.

[Marooned]

Thanks guys. I've been digging (drilling) some of the old wet wood out this afternoon. So far, it looks like the far edges of the transom are dry and the layer of ply closest to the inner skin is dry and solid. Will I need to go ahead and remove these section or could they stay? I don't want to compromise the integrity of the repair, but also don't want to remove wood that doesn't have to come out.

[JerryT]

I believe if you follow the link that Aaron posted you need to remove all wood...They should have a video or process to follow right on the site

[Mike C]

Did the Seacast as well about 3 years ago - still have some stuck on the concrete that has surived New England winters . Easiest way to remove the wood is with a chainsaw , Trust me spent a ton on chisles and wasted a week and still finished with the chainsaw . http://share.shutterfly.com/ac...rshar

[Skeet'r89]

Any wood not removed will have to be coated with epoxy resin in order for the SeaCast to adhere to it. SeaCast will not bond to bare wood.

[Marooned]

Okay, been reading the Seacast website and it sounds like it's best to remove all wood.

Skeet'r89, I noticed on the site that it mentioned Seacast not being compatible with West System or epoxy. Did you have a different experience?

[Skeet'r89]

I have not used SeaCast but did research on products to repair the transom in my Skeeter. I chose not to use SC for cost reasons. Don't remember what all it said. I just remember about it not adhering to wood without it being sealed.

[sarmst100]

Seacast and Arjay 6011 is made with polyester resin which will not bond to epoxy or much of anything else. You should check into the Arjay before making a decision. It is almost half the price of Seacast. Wellcraft uses it in their boats.

[arjone01]

I used arjay in the second boat, I quoted it as seacast but just meant to compare it as a pourable transom composite that works the same way. I didn't mind the arjay, sets up just as hard, it just doesn't have the fibers to mix in and give it more strength like the seacast does. You may be able to get some fiberglass fibers and mix them into the arjay.

[thilltony]

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">Any wood not removed will have to be coated with epoxy resin in order for the SeaCast to adhere to it. SeaCast will not bond to bare wood.</td></tr></table>

NOT TRUE!!!! Where did you get THAT information?

I've done a number of these, and SeaCast attains an incredible grip on bare wood. Do some experimenting for yourself and see.

I would NOT use another product that does not have the fiberglass fibers. That would be similar to just using Bondo. The fiberglass is what gives it such strength.

FWIW, you do not have to remove all the old wood if it is very solid, and your transom WILL still be strong. But that wood you leave will still be subject to rot, just as it was before.

So IF you decide to go the partial repair route, make VERY sure that you have NO screw holes or any place for the wood to get wet. SeaCast does a good job of encapsulating wood, so you don't have to worry about anywhere it's in contact.

Use the chain saw and get everything you can reach. Wood up around corners, if it is dry, can be left with no ill after-effects. Tooth in with the chainsaw and make sure to pack/rubber mallet it very well to remove all air pockets. When it's done the next day, you will be very glad.

I have nothing to gain from any of this, just tired of hearing incorrect info being spread around. This product is AWESOME for average boat owners, and gives excellent, permanent results.

-TH

PS - Most of the work I've done has been on larger saltwater boats set up for twin outboards. Very strong stuff.

[thilltony]

Here are some pics.

The rotten wood comes out like mulch.



Doing your initial glass work before the pour makes it easier.
Make sure to tape up EVERY little hole be before pouring the seacast.
Then make sure to fair and sand very carefully before gelcoating


And by the way, you can ROLL on gelcoat. Roll it on thick, then sand with 1000 grit, 1500 grit, then buff after it cures, of course.


In your case, you probably don't need to do all the fiberglass work. Dig out the rot, pour in the SeaCast, then put the cap and motor back on. Best wishes.

-TH

[20XDC]

Ok, i just want to make sure i understand, so you are saying that once the transom is exposed all i have to do is dig out the rotted wood until i hit solid wood assuming there is any, then mix and pour in the seacast and that will adhere to the wood.

[Skeet'r89]

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by thilltony &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">

NOT TRUE!!!! Where did you get THAT information?

I've done a number of these, and SeaCast attains an incredible grip on bare wood. Do some experimenting for yourself and see.

I would NOT use another product that does not have the fiberglass fibers. That would be similar to just using Bondo. The fiberglass is what gives it such strength.

FWIW, you do not have to remove all the old wood if it is very solid, and your transom WILL still be strong. But that wood you leave will still be subject to rot, just as it was before.

So IF you decide to go the partial repair route, make VERY sure that you have NO screw holes or any place for the wood to get wet. SeaCast does a good job of encapsulating wood, so you don't have to worry about anywhere it's in contact.

Use the chain saw and get everything you can reach. Wood up around corners, if it is dry, can be left with no ill after-effects. Tooth in with the chainsaw and make sure to pack/rubber mallet it very well to remove all air pockets. When it's done the next day, you will be very glad.

I have nothing to gain from any of this, just tired of hearing incorrect info being spread around. This product is AWESOME for average boat owners, and gives excellent, permanent results.

-TH

PS - Most of the work I've done has been on larger saltwater boats set up for twin outboards. Very strong stuff.</td></tr></table>

Ok, I could be wrong and they do not recommend epoxy. I was sure that several years ago they recommended sealing the edges of remaining wood with something. I guess one should just follow there instructions and hope it bonds together. !! Sorry for posting inaccurate information.

[20XDC]

Skeet'r89, i'm still a bit confused, i have a 1989 sf175dx. I saw the work you did great job by the way, i dont know that i need a transom rebuild but i was just gathering info incase i ever do, i thought it would have to be a total cap off but know i'm hearing that the seacast works better then originaly thought and that if you clean out the bad wood and let the rest dry that would be enough for the seacast to adhere too properly, is this true or not. Also curious if you drill it out how thick of a fiberglass sheet is on the inside of the boat? Lets say the stringers are still good, how will they adhere to the seacast are they attached to the iside part of the fiberglass wall and it all holds together when the seacast is poured? Sorry if this sounds stupid just trying to visualize how it all stays together.

I have seen all the transom rebuild posts on here but havn't seen one done with the seacast without a total cap off just curious how and if it can be done, anyone have any ggod pics or video of someone doing it this way......Thanks.....Hope this made sense i'm starting to confuse myself............lol.............

[azwaterdude]

Another idea to repairing wood. I have used this product on all wood that gets hit by the elements around the house. Also any wood i may add to boat for whatever reason. Never did a transom.

http://www.rotdoctor.com/glass/GLrotrepair.html