I just ran down to NC to grab this boat.
She needs carpet and trolling motor to begin with.
A tree hit the side of it. There photo's of the previous owners attempt patch it.
What's my best option for refinishing the damaged areas? I'm sure trying ot patch the metal flake would be very hard to do.
Hey Duane: Congrats on the boat...I think....is the motor good and is the transom solid? The Ranger I bought had similar damage. I paid $250 for materials and paid a good glassman $350 to make sure the repair was done well - best money I've spent....then pulled everything out and started to rebuild - check my posting - Ranger write off - R72 rebuild. It all depends on how much time you want to invest as well as figuring out a budget. I think I would like to get that repair assessed before doing much else. Doing your own repaint is quite possible. This is the best forum for getting help - these folks are terrific.....
[i]LAND OF THE SLEEPING GIANT
I goofed and left the motor up on bar on the way backfrom NC. I forgot it didn't come with a transom saver and 2 stress cracks appeared but the transom is solid.
I'm probably going to be painting or re-gelling the boat as it has some spider webs around the rub rails where it has hit a dock or 2.
The motor is good but will be for sale. I'm going to put a 200 on it instead of the 150.
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by duane1982 »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">I goofed and left the motor up on bar on the way backfrom NC. I forgot it didn't come with a transom saver and 2 stress cracks appeared but the transom is solid.
I'm probably going to be painting or re-gelling the boat as it has some spider webs around the rub rails where it has hit a dock or 2.
The motor is good but will be for sale. I'm going to put a 200 on it instead of the 150.</td></tr></table>
Where did the cracks develop while towing ?
If they were in the transom you may want to double check it. If you developed some stress cracks from towing, there was some flexing going on. Transom saver or not. That boat running thru a foot and a half chop is going to receive a heck of a lot more stress on the transom while running than when it will ever see towing.
They develop right on the top of the transom. One is 1.4 long and the other between an 1/8th.
I towed it 800 miles with the motor locked on the bar bobbing up and down.
they are really probably stress cracks in gel.
I just sold one of those with a 200 Johnson on it for $1,500.00. The one I sold was in better shape appearance wise then that one. But the transom wasn't sealed properly at the plant and I had to make some repairs to it. The floor around the console area had a soft spot in it but the buyer said he wanted a project boat. I had to sell the boat because a customer owed me money for some motor work he had done and couldn't pay his bill. Pretty solid boat and would make a good multi species boat.
That stinks!. I paid 2600. for this and am gonna end up selling the 150 off it and buying a 200.
I have long been looking for a rough water boat and have a whole story on how I ended up with this.
I was down south looking at 2 other boats that ended up being total junk and stumbled across this one.
Seems it's gotta ride as good as a champ or charger.
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by duane1982 »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">They develop right on the top of the transom. .</td></tr></table>
You should be Ok then.
The patch on the side, was that a hole thru the glass or just gouged ?
I'm not sure. Previous owner says it was just gouged but feels kinda weak compared to around it when you lean into it hard.
I'm sure I'll have to pull the bondo out and put some mat and resin in there.
What do you guys think about using imron or interlux?
It should'nt feel "kinda weak"....and if the previous owner isn't too sure...I would expect ther worst. IMHO I would want to see what's under there.....looks like the rub rail is off at that point so there might be an issue with the cap / hull at that point. As for which paint, are you gonna spray or roll/tip? Imron and Interlux both contain isocyanates....you would need really good protection if spraying. Interlux Perfection is a two part polyurethane - need to mix accurately. They also have a single part poly - check out http://www.jamestowndistributors.com - they have a good selection of paints + video demos. Shipping rates are good. As for Imron, it's a top quality paint - check out the Skeeter 201 posting on here to see great work......at a price.......if you're gonna hand paint, it's possible at a fraction of the cost of a full spray job. I painted and spent money elsewhere......oh, and do you really need a 200?
[i]LAND OF THE SLEEPING GIANT
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by duane1982 »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">I'm not sure. Previous owner says it was just gouged but feels kinda weak compared to around it when you lean into it hard.
I'm sure I'll have to pull the bondo out and put some mat and resin in there.
What do you guys think about using imron or interlux?</td></tr></table>
looks like it took a really hard impact on that bondo patch area, You'll need to get inside from the rod box and lay some mat on the inside to strengthen it so you can do the cosmetic outside repair.
Imron and Interlux are both quality paints, but the key to a quality final coat whether you spray or roll n tip is the prep work to the glass.
Spend the time on the prep work and the finish will look really nice and last.
I've painted a car or two when I was younger so I know prep is key.
I'm going to find out which would be cheaper me getting the areas repaired with gel or me painting the entire boat.
I was wondering if we can add flake to the paint like we do automotive?
I looked around but didn't get a clear answer.
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