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  1. #1
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    May 2006
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    Lufkin
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    rotten stringers

    WHat are the dangers of running a boat with rotten wood in the stringers? Also, why is it that everyone cuts the fiberglass out completely when they replace the stringers? Why not just cut off the top of the stringer, remove the rotten wood, epoxy in new wood and then cap off the stringer with new glass?

  2. Member
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    May 2007
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    Colonial Heights Virginia
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    #2

    Re: rotten stringers (dpman79)

    If your running wide open throttle and take on alot of heavy waves the rotten stringers will not support the hull and will crack and worse fail. It is best to remove the fiberglass so u can lay about a 1/4" of wood flour/expoxy mix between the hull and stringers. Can cause hull cracks if u dont.

  3. Member
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    #3
    why can't you just lay the wood flour/epoxy mix into the old stringer glass before you put in the new stringer wood?

  4. Member Texas Larry's Avatar
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    Aug 2009
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    Irving, TX
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    #4

    Re: (dpman79)

    You need to expose the entire stringer and remove the stringer and as much of the old fiberglass as you can, then use fiberglass mat or cloth to glass the new stringers to the hull. Don't be stingy with the glass either.

  5. Member arjone01's Avatar
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    Oct 2006
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    Hopkinsville, KY
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    #5

    Re: (Texas Larry)

    The hull is only as strong as the stringers that are bonded to it. If it delaminates then you're back to square one. If you're going to go all the way through the process of exposing them and splitting the hull then why risk it? Just do it right the correct way the first time. Not worth it, in cost or safety. Do it right.

    It may work the rest of the boats life doing it the way you want to, but then again, if it doesn't? What happens? If you even survive the accident from the hull collapsing, you get to redo it. Pay twice as much, and get to do the work all over again. Or just junk the boat and take all of that as a waste. Too many "IF'S" doing it the easy way.

  6. Member
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    #6
    I am not saying that I wanted to do it that way, I was just wonderg why it was not done that way. I am actually thinking of maybe using seacast or Nida-Core inside the sringers instead of wood.

  7. Member
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    Aug 2004
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    Headland, AL
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    1,657
    #7

    Re: (dpman79)

    Arjay 6011 is the same as Nida-Bond Pourable except it is a lot cheaper. Arjay 6011 is thin so it is easier to pour than Seacast. I saw a youtube video pouring Seacast and it wouldn't pour into the cavity very well.
    1999 Champion 203
    2000 Yamaha OX66 225

  8. Member arjone01's Avatar
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    Oct 2006
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    Hopkinsville, KY
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    10,103
    #8

    Re: (dpman79)

    I've used seacast in my transom, it worked great and bonded great. I also looked at Arjay very hard. Even when I ordered the seacast over the phone the rep of the store I went through mentioned it and said it was a great product as well. That would be a viable fix IMO.

  9. Member
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    #9
    I am trying to get a price on the Arjay 6011.

  10. Member
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    Aug 2004
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    Headland, AL
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    #10

    Re: (dpman79)

    Should be around $100 for a 5 gal pail. Shipping will vary. Call these guys http://www.advanced-plastics.com/ or call ArJay and talk to Chris.
    1999 Champion 203
    2000 Yamaha OX66 225

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