Re-carpeting... if I'm going to be lazy, how much?

[jfordbass]

I'll probably end up doing it myself, but if I don't, how much in labor to have a pro/marine shop re-carpet a bass boat with a circa $200 roll of carpet? What can expected labor costs be?

[JoePA]

As far as labor...not sure. It seems the cost to install carpet is from $1000 to $2000 if not more! Just go for it....really worth it in the end.

Joe

[ep72]

What Joe said. You can save a lot in labor with a little sweat and time.

[SwatDawg]

I doubt you will get it done under 1k anywhere.... Carpet, glue, bades ect will run you around 200.00 Do it your self and save that 1k..

[Mantis]

Do it yourself. It's not as difficult at it seems. You can get all of the help you need on BBC.

[netweid]

After I did mine I would have to charge someone between $1-2k to make it worth my time. I spend 48 man hours on my 18'boat and $200 in supplies.

[jfordbass]

Wow. Thanks. No brainer. Now I know for SURE I will do it myself ---- after reading a bunch of related 'how to' threads here in good ol BBC. Any 'best links' on those who have gone through the process? Meanwhile, searching...

[Chupacabra]

I just did mine last weekend and Im glad I did it myself for the experience and satifaction of knowing I did it.

I was quoted $1,000. But after I had to replace the floor I ended up finding these boards (what a lifesaver you guys are) I felt that laying carpet would be a breeze.

The biggest prob I had was the lids. I couldnt get the corners to look right at first. But I finally figured it out and it looks great.

Like the others said its just a lil time consuming, however I like tearing stuff apart so it was fun.

Carpet and glue was $190 (I bought 25ft incase I screwed something up and 2-1/2 gal of carpet glue) I only needed 1 bucket of glue and a few spray cans of 3m glue for the edges. total was about $220 and that was overkill.

Oh I had to get 100- #8 stainless steel screws and washers to replace the rivets on the molding.. that was easier than I thought. Good luck and have fun.

here is a finished pic

[matt481VS]

James, shoot me an IM with your email. If you want, I can send a detailed PDF file that I have, which takes you through all of the steps. I'm in the process of redoing my carpet right now. - Matt

EDIT: I don't have this PDF anymore, but you might be able to find it online by searching for "How to Replace the Carpet in your Bass Boat". It should be the first link that pops up.


Modified by matt481VS at 2:12 PM 6/23/2008

[jfordbass]

Thanks Matt --- I've enabled email address to be seen; would appreciate that PDF... email is jfordbos@yahoo.com

Thanks again, J

[Firefighter615]

I am getting ready to do my Ranger 372v as well and would like to see the file. Email address is tlmisner@insightbb.com

Thanks

[ChampioN181Benton]

Hey Matt, hate to pile on, but we're thinking about doing an old Gambler. Can I get the file too? krc0378@aol.com

[matt481VS]

Modified by matt481VS at 7:41 PM 4/20/2008

[Firefighter615]

Well I must be blind or stupid because I dont see anything that looks like what you described.

[jfordbass]

Couple things:

1. This is a pretty good article too: http://www.boatcarpetonline.co...s.htm ---- Between this and the PDF, and a little elbow grease, I think any of us can do a pretty good job re-carpeting our boats.

2. Somewhere, I read that you want to make sure that you don't get a heavier carpet 'weight' (16oz, 18oz, and so on) than your boat's lids, were designed for (you won't be able to close lids, etc and other cons). I forget where I read that, but I know I read it! Yet---many are suggesting that 20oz is a good way to go, no matter what your old boat 'had' before. So, when I order my carpet replacement kit (probably will do so from http://www.bassboatcarpets.com), I will be sure to bring this point up.

[kycurs]

Thanks

[Redneck Nole]

I was quoted $1400 in Ft. Lauderdale so I am doing it myself and spending the extra $1,200 on new electronics. My carpet should be here this week from bassboatcarpets

[jfordbass]

Hi all, just wanted to share some insight after recently finishing up a re-carpet job. Not easy, but not the hardest thing in the world either.
Link to abbreviated/edited set of pics, start to finish. I have more if anyone wants them, but for now won't bore you. If you want more, then let me know.

http://tinyurl.com/45lq5n


If anyone's considering doing their own, I suggest reading that PDF. Read it. Then read it again. Then read it with a highlighter and highlight stuff of interest to you. I must have read the thing 5 times before I even got started. I would then re-read sections as I reached that particular phase. Not that I'm 'slow'(!), but I was just paranoid about buying a roll of carpet and screwing it up. If you want the pdf/article, email me at jfordbos@yahoo.com

The second 'document' that I pretty much considered gospel was the 'manual' that is included with a bassboatcarpets.com 'kit' (which includes carpet, manual, carpet knife + extra blades). Same thing applies----read it, read again, highlight, make side notes, etc. It's kinda funny how they wrote it (Bubba good ol' boy theme).

Several things of note from my own experience once I actually got started:

Take a LOT of pics with a camera of everything, especially BEFORE (so you can refer back to how something was assembled, a hinge in a lid perhaps, where rod straps go/went, fish finder mount location(s) etc. There were a couple times I was glad I had the pics. Take pics from many angles too (from top, behind, starboard, port, etc. etc.)

Label fricking EVERYTHING that you take apart (lids, lid hardware baggies/screws, write on lid using tape which side faces toward bow and relate that to direction of your carpet's grain).

The demo/tear-down phase is the most time consuming/laborious, followed by the lids. My carpet came off fairly easily, and a good 'scraper' as noted (I used the kind with changeable blades; great investment for this project) is essential to get most of the adhesive off. Acetone is probably the best to get the most stubborn stuff off, but very noxious----work in an open space/area! A wire-wheel with drill is great for extremely stubborn gunk that you can't get up with elbow grease/scraping. Drilling out rivets and/or busted old screws SUCKED, but you'll get 'em. You have to. Keep that hardware labled/organized! Don't skimp/rush getting the old adhesive/crap off to the bare surfaces/fiberglass. The cockpit floor was the worst/most stubborn for me... spent most prep time there. Remember the more prep/cleaning you do, the better the new adhesive/carpet will stick and look.

Try to remove all carpet pieces/sections/lids etc. in a SINGLE piece. It's great to have those as 'templates' to use when cutting from the new roll of carpet later. Just leave about 3" (or so) on all sides of said 'templates' for when you cut main sections to fit edges/seats later. Better too much than too little!!
Mark your carpet's grain direction (use chalk on the backing with lots and lots of arrows)... any one direction will do... just stick to it and be consistent. I drew a zillion little arrows on the back of mine.

Use contact cement not only for the lids, but EVERYTHING (stern/bow/cockpit floor). You'll need assistance for the larger areas, but lids you can do totally solo. Get the lids done first, then work on the main areas (you can practice/get comfortable with using the carpet knife on corners, etc. that way). Some people have used trowled carpet adhesive on the main areas, including the author of this article I've attached, but in the end I just wanted to use one adhesive, and that's what the pros at bassboatcarpets.com use exclusively.

Change the carpet knife's blade/corners (4 corners per blade, so just rotate) CONSTANTLY. Literally every couple/few feet or so. They're cheap, and clean cuts are essential. Dull blades suck and can cause you grief with any given cut. Remember that you only get to cut 'once'. I used close to 40 blades total (again, they're CHEAP).

I found there are 'two' types of DAP Weldwood Contact Cement: one comes in a green can and the other type comes in a red can. Green can is more 'environmentally friendly' and is non-flammable and not at all noxious, whereas the older/original Red can stuff is the polar opposite (noxious as hell, flammable, and just plain evil in all regards)----but GREAT at sticking/adhesion whereas the green can stuff was weak! I found that out early, thank goodness).
Do NOT try to 'rush' this job. We all wanna have the boat on the water as much as possible. I took a good two weeks with mine, partly because I work about 50 hours/week and partly because I was insanely methodical/careful in every phase (I'm just that way). Keep it slowwww, measure twice, cut once, etc.
When you're ready to lay new main sections into place, do a 'dry run' first to see that template/s roughly fit. Then, roll back one side, smear surface and carpet (just a single coat each!) backing with cement, let cure 20-30 minutes, then roll back into place. Repeat 'fold-n-smear' (I just now coined that) process with other side of carpet template/section. Have a friend help during this phase. I found it much easier this way than trying to maneuver some huge gooey piece of carpet into place and remember with contact cement it sticks immediately!

I can't speak highly enough of the quality of carpet and the responsiveness (both by phone and email) or Rick et. al. at bassboatcarpets.com. I called and/or emailed them a couple times and they were very willing to help/friendly.

James



Modified by jfordbass at 10:07 PM 6/21/2008

[TritonTimTR19]

Your link isnt working

[jfordbass]

http://tinyurl.com/45lq5n