rod finish

[dchance]

I have dura gloss?? or perma gloss? or something like that. Is that a finish that I brush onto the blank to make it gloss or what it it's main purpose?? Very thin liquid. I tried some on an area and seemed to be real easy to chip/flake off.

[Obed]

PG is hard as nails once dried. PG is a one part finish that gases off instead of curing like 2 part epoxies. many folks use it as a rod coating. It can even be used as a thread coat. It can take multiple coats to achieve the same results as epoxy, but it is bulletproof, lighter, and super hard. For rod coating, many use PG, but you can also use non-yellowing urethane (automotive, spar). Do not use thread finish for a rod coating. One trick with PG is that you can add pigment and/or fine glitter for added effects.
One watchout is that PG is a "hot" finish and actually heats up with air contact (increase with humidity) and contains solvents (one of which I believe is xylene-nasty stuff). Those two attributes can lead to issues with stickers and paint. I would not use over anything other than threads and factory finished blanks.

[Bassn81]

First,
You do not need to coat the blank...leave it along. You can use permagloss for thread finish....and since I know you are using Micro guides it is indeed the best finish for that purpose....it is lighter and stronger than traditional finish.

To use PG as a thread finish follow the below directions. First, pour a bit of PG into a glass shotglass...this stuff will disolve plastic. Apply your first coat...this stuff goes on thin....that is OK.....let it dry for a full 24 hours....when you come back the next day you can apply subsequent coats very thinly with about 2 hours between coats. DO NOT try to apply to much at each coat.....it will take about 5 coats to get a good finish....this is what I do for ALL of my micro rods.

It will never look like traiditional thread finish...but that is OK....it will work better and still look good.