Evinrude 115 stalls in gear.

[ameleo]

I know this has been talked about previously but my symptoms seem different. Hope you can help.

This is a Model E115TSLECM Serial Go4509893

I have used this motor for many years with little problem but today we went out fishing about 8 miles off shore without a hitch. Stopped to fish and when I started the moter to move, it stalled when I put it in gear and tried to move forward. It would idle in gear but stall when I tried to race the engine. The engine would tach up fine, if out of gear. I finally got it to run at 3000 rpm by priming it but that was as fast as the motor would run at full throttle in gear. I didn't have to prime after I got it up to that rpm.

I had just filled up with high test Shell before we left. Took about two hours to get back without the help of seatow. Took out the plugs at home, they were wet but not fouled. The motor runs fine out of gear and didn't overheat when we were laboring in.

Thanks.

[ChampioNman]

Welcome to the BBC! Pull the drain plugs on the lower and check the condition of the lu fluid. It should be clear not milky or nasty smelling.

[ameleo]

Fluid is thick and dark but not milky or nasty smelling. Actually it is green and clear if I take a small sample and put it on paper (similar to new oil but maybe thicker).

[ChampioNman]

Drain the fluid completely and look for chunks of metal. Fill it with fresh gearlube.

[ameleo]

I've changed the gear lube, changed the plugs and the oil-water separator and the gas line filter. The separator and filter were clean. There were no metal filings on the magnetic plug in the lu. I screened the lube that I took out and it was free of any sediment.
The motor runs great in the driveway. I'm going to take it out for a test run this week. I can't see anything wrong. I thought it might be the timing advance but it look OK. Maybe a coil is overheating?
Let me know if you can think of anything else that might cause the problem, cause if I don't find something amiss, I won't trust the motor.

[ameleo]

Checking in the repair manual, I read about the Speed Limiting Overheating Warning. This limits the speed to 2500 RPM if the motor overheats (240). I don't think my motor over heated as I have a temperature gauge, but this seems to fit the bill. I can't see how this ties in electrically by the schematic, so first I'm going to change the water pump. If that fails, I guess I'll have to change the Power Pack. The manual mentions a diode in the circuit, but I'll be damned if I can find it.

[jeffnick]

A buddy had a similar problem with his Yammie. It was fuel.

[316jughead]

Has the hot horn ever sounded? Does the hot horn chirp when you turn on the key?

[ameleo]

The "hot" warning didn't sound and I tested the circuit by shorting out the heat sensor and the horn sounded. I have a temperature gauge that was at about 200 when this happened. I am in the process of replacing the water pump and inspecting the lower unit. So far I haven't found anything amiss. Before I tore it down I changed the fuel filter and the plugs. I did find that the plugs were wrong. A hotter plug was required.
I ran the motor and it started right up and sounds good, but not in the water.

I didn't notice if the warning chirped when the key was turned on.

Now that I have the lu off, I figured I might as well change the steering arm that is almost rusted through. When I finish I'll be on the water again and hope for the best. the weather has been iffy, so this is a good time to do the work.

Thanks for the advice.

[Laguna Freak]

Your symptoms are very similar to what I originally experienced last month with my 1999 FICHT 175. Take a look at the FICHT Diagnostic software post. While I didn't post the details of my initial incident, the experience was very similar.

I sent my ECU to DFI yesterday.

[ChampioNman]

No ECU/EMM on his motor it is carbed. With the LU off I would check the shift rod for what Seahorse calls salt water o ring or something like that. The salt builds up around the shift rod where it goes into the shift rod assembly on the LU and causes it to bind.

[ameleo]

Thanks.
I have torn down the lu and replaced all of the seals including the "o" rings on the shift rod. The rod did have a little build up where it slides through the "o" rings. I'm waiting for new exhaust gaskets before I put it together and test it.

I noticed that the loctite on the idle adjusting screw was broken and the screw had backed out about 1/4 inch (vibration). I think this could have caused an idle problem but I don't think it was the main cause of the running problem.

[Maverick09]

One thing to have a look at on the 60° V4 OMC/BRP engines is the VRO pump located between the two banks of carbs.
A simple test for the pump is to remove the crankcase pulse hose from the pump housing after running the engine for a small period of time at home and verify that there is no fluid present in the hose. (By fluid i mean fuel/oil mixture)
If there is fluid then it is a good chance that the VRO pump pulse diaphragm is faulty and may need replacing. There are other tests for the pump but this will verify the condition of the Fuel pump/Air motor side to begin with.
See how you get on.

[ameleo]

No VRO on this engine. I mix the oil in the gas tank. Unless you are talking about the fuel pump in which case it is connected directly to the engine.