2022 150 Pro XS “surge”

[dustlane]

This engine has six hrs on it and it has done this since I got it with four hrs on it. Out of warranty. First, it’s really slow at getting on plane. Then it runs fine till wot then you can feel a slight surge or buck. Very minor. However, the tach shows it’s hitting 8k rpm. And lastly, you absolutely can’t put it on the trailer unless the bunks are completely in the water where nothing is showing but the bow roller. It just surges and bucks really bad when you give it throttle to load it. I have to crank it about the last 12”-18” just to get it loaded. It’s on a 2022 Ranger Z185. My local Bass Pro service center said it was a spin hub. So I paid for a new hub and the issue is still there. Not as bad though. It has the standard Tempest Plus 22p which I plan on replacing in the future but for the time being I would just like to be able to load the boat at the very least. I hate taking it to the lake as it is because it’s such a pain to load and I’m afraid to run it with the tach reading so high. Any ideas what I can check? It’s back at the shop again as of now but they seem to be at a loss. ����*♂️Serial #3B186328 https://share.icloud.com/photos/0f94...wBP9P5lH22N5dw

[mactlman]

post serial number for Don--- do not see how it could ever spin a hub on a new merc prop???

[dustlane]

My thoughts exactly. I’ll add serial number to op. Thanks!

[EuropeanAM]

Engine Serial if you would... it will start with a 2B or 3B (example: 2B123456, 3B123456)

What size PVS plugs are in that prop?

[dustlane]

Serial #3B186328. I also added an iCloud link of the issue while loading on the trailer today. It does this at all trim levels. It also seems to do the same thing although very very slightly at wot. The tach at wot shows pegged about 8k rpm. The tech just called and said the tach was off by about 300 rpm so a new one is on order. 300 rpm discrepancy is a long way from the 2k over the 6000 mark. The trailer was in the water past the outboard bunks with about 12-18” of the center bunks out of the water. The only way I can load the boat is if I completely submerge the bunks where they are completely submerged. That gets a little hairy when it’s windy or the lake is busy.

[EuropeanAM]

That prop should be real close for this setup.

Do you have a jackplate installed, or are you mounted direct to transom?

First things first: Need a RELIABLE tach figure. Strongly recommend either a Smartcraft Instrument/Display, OR the Smartcraft Connect MOBILE. That will give you dead-nuts accurate data straight from the PCM.

[dustlane]

It does have a backplate and one power pole. Both were on there when I bought it. I bought it with four hrs on it. I was about to buy that mobile smart gauge thing but I’m not spending anymore money on it till I know what’s wrong. I’m seriously considering selling it. I have had it about four months and I have yet to be able to fish out of it because of all the issues. Most of those were minor but I don’t want to deal with trying to load it like it is. It’s a pain and I ain’t gettin any younger. I’m gonna see if the tech will let me go with him to the lake tomorrow when they lake test it. That way I can make sure he sees what I’m seeing and he can’t come back and say “we couldn’t duplicate the issue”. I can’t handle hearing that again.

[dustlane]

It’s just got the plugs that came in it. They’re not solid plugs if that helps you out any. Everything is the way it came when it was new. The original owner put it in the water a total of three times before I bought it. Beats anything I’ve ever seen. This is my ninth bass boat and I’ve never had one that wouldn’t go on the trailer.

[dustlane]

Have you ever heard of a prop that was defective that just allowed hubs to spin inside the prop itself? That seems like exactly what is happening. I just wish I had another prop to test my theory. ��

[jrh_67]

Don't give up on it yet and sell it. It just needs to be looked at by a competent technician and the problem resolved. Maybe someone close to you could let you borrow a prop for testing. I know Joe54 is in Longview, not far from you. He would probably let you borrow one to test.

[dustlane]

Prop plugs. It was prop plugs. I needed solid plugs. ����*♂️ I feel like such an idiot. I spent days with my last boat trying out different plug types to dial her in. That never crossed my mind on this one. The tach is actually bad so I have a new one on order. Thanks guys for all the input. Now I can actually fish out of it.

[Jbass123]

Yep. A prop that is cavitating due to excessive [pvs] venting feels almost the same as a prop hub slipping. I experienced that once while testing a prop. In that case, an easier way to check for excessive venting is to tape over the vent holes. Digging those pvs plugs out while the prop is on the engine can be kind of a pain, especially if that doesn’t turn out to be the problem. If the prop is dry, a good tape like Gorilla tape or even duct tape will adhere well enough to conduct testing.

[dustlane]

The sad part is that I’m pretty familiar with those plugs and how they can affect things but it never even crossed my mind. My mind went to straight to bigger things. But all is good now. At least as far as this issue. I still may try a couple different props to try to improve the hole shot and maybe squeeze out another couple mph. But for now I’m just going fishing.

[mactlman]

The sad part is that I’m pretty familiar with those plugs and how they can affect things but it never even crossed my mind. My mind went to straight to bigger things. But all is good now. At least as far as this issue. I still may try a couple different props to try to improve the hole shot and maybe squeeze out another couple mph. But for now I’m just going fishing.