I would love to pick your brains on building custom rods. How much do the required tools/equipment cost? Is it worth it with respect to $ savings?
My shop is full of jig & plastics molds and all the accessories. No way I have saved money but it’s fun.
You can get by with a couple hundred for tools/equipment or go all out and be closer to a thousand for tools/equipment. All depending how much you want to spend and how much you think you will end up using them. If you are building 1 or 2 rods stick to the lower end. If you think you might enjoy it as a hobby and will replace all your rods and some friends/family rods then it might be worth it to spend more on tools.
Is it worth it in respect to saving money? - To be honest not really. For me it is pretty difficult to build a rod for much less than $100. You can by a comparable factory built rod for the same. Now if you are building most expensive that is comparable to a NRX. Then you can save a little money. Most of my top end builds I have $200 to $300 in parts. So that is $200 less than a NRX at retail price. So it is really difficult to say if you will save money or not? If you are like me you will end up spending more on it but you will have the ability to make a rod whenever/however you want. I started building rods around 4 years ago, I have replaced all of my rods and my fishing partners rods with ones I build. And I have 50 or so blanks sit back if one of us comes up with a new idea for a rod I can go pull one out and get started on it.
Sounds like you have the tools and the knowledge, building what you need would cut costs and is a rewarding endeavor. A lot of unwarranted bling to catch the eye in the new wrappers, none of it builds a better rod. It also allows you to incorporate tool storage at hand into your build. Hand wrappers can be in many pieces that can be assembled quickly, and take up very little space when stored. Power wrappers are more prone to permanent installation, taking up permanent space, although I have seen systems that folded up against the wall when not in use, freeing up bench space. I have also seen rolling work benches that incorporated blank storage, vacuum system, small grinder for guide feet, tool storage, power wrapper and dryer, foot pedal control its full length, etc.
I've been using the same hand wrapper for almost 20 years. I'll disagree with denraytay that you can't save money, you probably won't because you'll build too many rods but you definitely can. Almost every supplier has 15-20% sales, Voodoo will give you 20% if you order over $100 and there are plenty of really good blanks (some excellent) that can be had at times for under $100...you can regularly get NFC Xrays for as low as $60 (if you buy 10)...right now you can get a lot of Xrays for $75 (plus the $10 excise tax they charge you). Here's an example of a great "all around" rod.
SJ725 Xray - $85
Shipping - Free right now
Fuji ECSM16 - $4.65
Fuji CCKWAG8 - $3.01
Fuji CCKBAG7 - $2.65
Fuji CCKTAG6 - $2.37
Fuji CCKTAG5.5 - $2.37 x 8 = $18.96
Fuji CCLGAT5.5 (tip) - 2.90
Batson SG300A (grip) - $10.23
Batson SG155A (butt) - $7.38
Batson EVABC20 (butt cap) - $2.80
Shipping from GetBit - $8.95
You're at $148.90 in parts at straight retail. Gets better with a sale on components...You'd be hard pressed to find a factory rod that will fish better for under $225.
A kit like this https://getbitoutdoors.com/getbit-gbstk-wddr gives you everything you'd need to start for $261.73...you can piece things together for less as well. Dream Reamers are a must and get a dryer with at least 18RPM.
The NRX series of rods have been out around 15 years, GLX 30, you really don't think things haven't gotten better since than? How about your cellphone? The NRX series was the introduction of 3M nano resin into their rods, Lamiglas, St. Croix and others did the same at the very same time, nothing more, nothing less. There was no magic there.
I agree with willworks4fish. There is absolutely a savings to be seen but denraytay isn’t wrong either. I started out just wanting to try building my own rods to have a winter hobby and because I was fairly picky on factory rods. I liked some guide trains and handles (such as on the Avid Xs) but would despise others rods even if I loved the blank because of the components (like the Fuji ACS seats that Cashion uses). Building was a way I can get exactly what I like on a rod with the blanks I want. Saving money was a welcome bonus.
That said, if you are trying to build a copycat of a sub $150 rod, youll be hard pressed to save anything. A St Croix premier is around $160. A similar build would be a RodGeeks C2 blank (same exact blank as the Premier, around $80 with shipping), guides and handle would be around $65 with shipping. So you’d save about $15 over buying a factory build but you don’t get the same warranty.
you’ll absolutely see significant savings over factory rods when using higher end blanks and the finish quality might even be better too. A few personal examples of how it can be cost effective:
- as willworks4fish has stated, an XRay build is around $150-$185. That build is on par with a Loomis GLX, which would be a $280 savings. Kistler ZBones used the same blanks (but proprietary tapers) and they went for over $500, a $315 savings.
- NFC IM MB704 cost me about $110 total, a Loomis equivalent is an IMX, around $350.
- fly rod: NFC FW904-2 was around $150 to build, a Loomis equivalent was an F1084 which retailed for around $500, $350 in savings.
while it’s nice to save money, the best part is getting exactly what you want (guides , layout, handle, grips, thread color etc)
Last edited by ECobb91; 01-08-2024 at 03:38 PM.
1995 Ranger 481v
1995 Johnson Fast Strike 175hp
I share many of the same sentiments as ECobb91. I started building for many of the same reasons. It's a very rewarding process for me. Especially when you catch that first fish on a new build.
I was using a blend of Kistler rods, GLoomis rods, Shimano, etc. I doubt seriously I've saved any real money since starting my personal builds, I've purchased way too many blanks, guides, tools, etc... for there to be a break even at this point in time. But that's my doing... I'm very curious about things and like to tinker. I've given some builds away to my father and brother to clear room for more building/learning/improvements.
Don't buy everything thinking you will replicate a high end rod on your first try. It takes time to improve your techniques and overall build quality. Start out with a few low cost, low expectation builds to get the knack of it. I would even suggest taking an old rod, stripping it down and rebuilding... or at least redoing the guide train. I practiced wrapping guides a lot on a broken rod blank before I ever attempted to complete a new build. So my first build came out pretty decent, but definitely took some time to understand how to properly do guide coats and have them come out correctly.
There are a ton of options depending on your personal tastes.
2018 LEGEND 211R | 250 MERC PROXS
I started about 7 / 8 years ago, for a winter / retirement hobby. I built several rods. Most for my use, but some for gifts. There is a learning curve and finding out what components you like.
I will state about saving or costing more per rod, "Do it for your pleasure and enjoyment", don't try to justify doing because of cost.
2019 RT 198P
2018 Mercury Pro XS 150 HP 4 Stroke #2B610068
Twin 12' BT Talons
4" Atlas Jack Plate
Riptide Instinct Quest
Are you looking to save money when you build your own furniture, customize a car, build a bird house, etc.? Kind of a mute point. I Fish Therefore I Am.
If you typically buy high end stuff, you can absolutely save money (and also end up with better performing equipment to boot). I have told a friend or two though, that if they are eyeing a factory $100-150 rod, I can’t help them - they are better off getting the cheap rod.
There's some ways to make some really great performing rods for the cost of the blank plus maybe $20. I regularly buy broken rods from people, I'll pay $10/rod for Alconites and $20 for SiC's I strip them and use the guides for repairs, gift, raffle rods and budget builds so I have a 3700 box full of used guides. I can get the reel seats off as well at least half of the time (some come off shockingly easy). A decent number of my personal rods have used guides. It's a little more work stripping everything but it works out in the end. You can occasionally find blanks for as low as $10 on eBay or FB marketplace. I bought 20 Shikari seconds for $10 each probably 6 or 7 years ago, all popping blanks from 1 to 4 power. The butt ends were a little rough but other than that they were great. I built a bunch of those for our club raffles and everyone loves them. I don't think I had more than $30 into any of them. I'd put them up against any $100-$150 rod.
Great point on refurbishing parts. I wish I was more successful taking reel seats off, but I’ve been able to rebuild broken rods for people a little more economically reusing their guides. Personally, I typically spend $150 and up for the blank (unless on sale), and $100 on the guides. I figure I’m going to spend the same amount of time building a $100 rod as I would a $600 rod, so I might as well make the best of it.
I had a friend looking at a $150 Dobyns at a store and when I looked at all the components, I told him I couldn’t match that price using the same components unless I got a cheap blank, which defeats the purpose. This was also taking into account I would not have charged him labor on the rod. He was a budget guy, and I was able to help him find budget stuff, knowing a little about rod building, but he needed to be $200 or more before I could start offering him any benefits (this is free labor). Fair labor on a rod probably starts at about $100.
Examples of how to save money, Mudhole had Am Tack skeleton spin seats in 4 color hoods for $1 over the holidays, the exposed blank trigger seats in many sizes were the same price. I bought twenty of each, the trigger seats in 10 mm. If I need an exposed blank trigger seat, I just ream to size in a few minutes, the thing is they want $3+ dollars for just the nut, anywhere. I have a bunch of Castaway complete exposed bottom trigger seats I got for free, four gallon ziplock bags full, not all had nuts, they do now. I believe the trigger seats are still on sale.
Here are some particularly good blanks that I think out perform their price point, have fished all of these.
Liberty - all retail between $70 and $100...some of my favorites...FS764 ($78.07, almost indistinguishable from the Shikari FS764), MB702.5 ($80.78), MB703.5 ($92.79) all available from GetBit, almost always in stock and cheaper when you hit a sale.
Stryker - all retail between $55 and $75...SCB7114 and 7115 for moving baits, MB704, 705 & 706, would put them up there or better than NFC IM's...these are all basically Rogues, I wouldn't be surprised if they raised their prices soon, they're worth more.
NFC's - when they're on sale, tough to beat for the price especially the 10 for $600 deals. I've gotten in on that twice...one time it was 10 Xrays, most recent was a mix of Xray and IM. Even then you can often get Xrays for $75. Obviously haven't fished all of them but have fished quite a few. Customer service and ship times have improved.
Phenix Feather - $89 to $119 retail...honestly kind of a pain to get but are excellent blanks and super light. I have a FTX-C-71M that I built as a spinning rod and it's one of my favorite all purpose spinning rods. This one was marked down off of GetBit when I got it. 77H and 77MH are both very good as well. Nice thing about these blanks is the butt end is perfect for Fuji 16 spinning seats with no arbor.
When it comes to guides I almost always go with Alconites or Kigans. IMO you really don't get much more (if any) performance from SiC's or Torzites.
Seats aren't that bad to get off. I use a Dream Reamer in a cordless drill. Not so much to ream out the blank but it'll heat it up from the inside and the blank will just come out. Have to watch it though because I have heated some up so much the seat deformed. I wear a leather work glove on the hand holding the seat. Don't do this unless your willing to occasionally have to re-do the abrasive strips on your reamer. Also never go in reverse, the strips will just come undone.
I have not tried the Liberty or Strykers, but both have fallen short “on paper” to me because of their blank weights (it’s just my personal issue, I’m sure the blanks are fine, but I just like building light and found that if they start light, they are easier to balance without adding weight). I wasn’t impressed with the Feather other than blank weight. Felt a little “dull” to me, probably the fancy finish. Another problem is, the blank is over a hundred, but the completed rod is about $180. Phenix’s UMBX and K-2’s are GREAT blanks, but well over $100. I have used all the NFC’s and the X-rays is the minimum I would use now. Their pricing just can’t be beat these days. I’d gladly pay more if they would ship immediately, but have been enjoying the current pricing (knowing that I have to wait a couple of months to get my blanks). I feel the HM’s are GLX or better quality, and the X-rays NRX level. Mudhole’s aren’t worth it anymore since their post COVID pricing changes. I’d take an X-ray over the Elite-X any day of the week. I like the Rainshadow RX-10, but that’s the lowest I would go, so no economical rods from that brand for me. I think the NFC Delta has the best chance, but because of its weight, you wouldn’t be able to pit that against $300 and up rods. Same issue as the Phenix Feather though, you can’t beat (on price) a finished rod from Edge based on the Delta blank (probably the best value to quality for a finished rod out there).
I absolutely agree that there is no measurable difference between alconites and sic or Torzite, but if I’m asking for people to compare my rods to GLX’s or NRX’s, I have to go with the higher priced guides. I recommend alconites for those wanting best bang for their buck, but you’d be surprised how many high end, “price is no issue” guys are out there. I was one, but would absolutely be okay with alconites on my personal builds. Any other blank recommendations? I’d LOVE to hear about something new (to me)!
I'd really suggest trying a Stryker. A MB705 is 2.2oz and you can easily build a sub 3.5oz with it, don't think you'll find a better $55 blank that's not a sale NFC. Those and the Libertys are my favorite "value" blanks. I've build a few of the Hydra OS blanks but like the Strykers better. Ng's are another story, love them especially the FL4 but that's $135.
I've been staying away from HM's because I've had way too many break (like 4 or 5) so I'll go with IM or Xray, haven't had a problem with either...don't mind the Delta's especially the hybrids but really don't like the ridges. For some things like frogs or punching I think IM is better or at least I have more confidence in their durability on close range or big hooksets with braid.
I'm currently in the process of finishing up a budget rod for my brother using the Delta MB705 (he's not that serious). It came in at 2.08 ounces, so its hard for me to go Stryker in that situation (same price, I think). I'm estimating that the build will come out at 3.6 ounces, using a fancy metal hood lock nut (like Megabass'), carbon fiber split grip, and reel seat with an insert. I'm actually impressed so far for the price point (only achieved because of a bunch of nice stuff on sale). Personally, I don't mind the ridges, but don't like the black finish on the Delta's that they add. Preference is without, I don't even like painted blanks.
I have a high broken HM count too (over 10), but only one broken X-ray, and that was on the first day of use, so probably a manufacture's defect. I won't touch HM's anymore either. Tournament guys are hard on equipment!
Fair enough...you lost me at fancy hood lock nut and reel seat with insert...no one would ever describe one of my builds as fancy and they can have any color thread as long as it's black
Probably 4-5 years ago I built 2 rods, Delta MB704 and HM MB704 with identical components except for the blank and guides (Alconite on the Delta and Torzite on the HM), no labels and gave them to a bunch of different people (think 8 people fished them) ranging from club guys to local "pros" and a couple of local bass guides I know. Asked them to tell me which they liked better. Most said they couldn't tell the difference and one that said they liked the HM more because they didn't like the ridges on the other one. A couple actually liked the Delta more.
I’m a minimalistic builder too (for myself), but thought I’d “fancy it up” for my brother, who is a casual fisherman. I’ll play with my brother’s in the yard when I get done - curious myself. I’ve only used the Delta’s for moving bait rods in the past. It feels pretty good in hand so far. The Delta ridges are ugly (probably the shiny black on top). The X-ray and C6O2 ridges aren’t as obnoxious… but I was glad they came out with the mirror buffed X-rays.
Good stuff guys. I haven't been building long, and haven't built on that many different manufacturers blanks. I built 2 spinning rods on the now defunct Pac Bay Quickline blanks. Wish they still made those as they were very light and very sensitive blanks. Just a bit fragile. I've only built on one MHX blank. Just the standard blank. It was ok. That's it. It was ok. I've built on 7 Rainshadow blanks. An RX7 crankbait rod, a Revelation that I built a jerkbait rod on. Very nice blank for the price. 3 Immortals. They're heavier blanks, but if it weren't for the prices of the X ray blanks, I think they'd be the best bang for the buck blanks I've ever built on. Love the titanium chrome color, but wish they'd offer it in a natural graphite. I've built on one Hydra Ng series blank. Not really impressed with it myself. I sold the rod I built on it to a buddy, he said it's a little better than his G Loomis E6X or whatever those rods were named.
I've built on 2 Eternity blanks. One the RX9 version, the other on the RX10. The RX9 blank I built on was the ETES610MXF blank. Really nice blank, very sensitive, but for me, severely under powered. It's now my panfish rod. The RX10 I built on was the ETEC72M. Awesome blank. Light and as sensitive, and I think a little more so, than the X rays. I've built on 1 NFC SM blank. Nice enough blank, but very heavy. Built on more than a few IMs. I really like them. Sensitivity is real good and like willwork4fish mentioned, you can fish them hard without any worries. I've built on a few X rays. SJ736 probably the most versatile rods I own. Building on an SB724 and MB733 right now, and have another MB733 and an MB724. The MB724 is going to be a spinning rod for fishing tubes, for a buddy and sometimes tournament partner of mine. And I have two of the MB725 C6O2 blanks on order that I am hoping to see in the next week or two. Can't wait to build on those, especially after reading willwork4fish's comments on them a while back.
I don't like the ridges on the X rays, so the OG finish ones I've used, I sanded them smooth, and I will be sanding the C6O2 blanks down as well. I just don't like the way they feel. For me the OG finish X rays felt like running a thumb nail over a heavy gauge nylon jacket. lol I will say this, the way the MB733s feel, I think they're going to be a very special blank. They just feel like they have that "it factor" thing. Gonna be my shaky head rod.
I don't really worry about overall rod weight that much. I love fishing with a really light rod, but I'm more about rod and reel balance on certain rods, than I am on total rod weight. My RX10 build came in at 3.65 oz. The MB733 X ray I am building right now will probably come in at 3.55 oz once I get the finish on the wraps. I have one of the NFC XO skeleton spinning reel seat / grips on it. I have one of the XO skeleton casting grips on order with the MB725 C6O2 blanks. It will be used with one of those blanks.
Gonna be my most look forward to off season of rod building ever, I think.
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