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  1. #1
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    White Lake, Michigan
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    1998 Mercury 2.5L efi intermittent bogging

    Ok guys, this one is challenging me. So I have a 200 efi serial number OG750722 that will basically bog during acceleration and won’t Rev over 2k-2500rpm, then sometimes it takes off by itself to full wot, and if you pull the throttle to idle and throttle back down it will accelerate “more normal” (still some hesitation). then after you are wide open you can mess around with the throttle and throttle down and up and it responds normally, which originally made me think possible tps issue but I checked voltage and it was in spec at both key on and wide open. Could it still potentially be bad?

    A few months ago I had a problem where the fuel pump was not turning on because the ecu was not supplying ground to it. So I sent the ecu to Simon and they fixed the drivers and tested. The problem POSSIBLY occurred once or twice before I received the ecu back. But at the time I figured it could have just been loaded up from idling, maybe it was the problem starting.

    so I’ve bench tested the trigger and stator with resistance and both test good. And I took out the final filter before the rail and cleaned the filter but there was a good amount of debris, as was in the vst and I took that apart and cleaned filters (I know I’m going to replace it I just wanted to see for a test). There is likely some that got to the injectors, so I will have to send those out to be cleaned I know, but could a partially clogged injector show these symptoms? The engine acts like it just isn’t advancing in timing almost? I also tested fuel pressure during issue and the fuel pressure was 34-36 the whole time so I know it’s not pressure related. And replaced all 6 plugs buh8’s. Checked connections on canon plug and ecu plus dielectric grease.

    Tested stator with dva during problem and during idle and it is in spec, battery is charging even during issue. Need to remove the injectors to hopefully clean filters, the stator doesn’t appear to be burned nor the voltage regulators, and it doesn’t seem to be dropping cylinders, but have not been able to check during the problem occurrence and I would think it would have dropped two cylinders all the time if switch box failed. I can pull the flywheel for a better look at stator and trigger and their wires and possible loose magnet under flywheel. But I was just wondering if anybody out there has a direction they assume the problem lies at. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you so much
    Last edited by Michiganfishing; 07-10-2023 at 07:41 PM.

  2. Member
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    #2
    are both modules removed from ign system if not remove those if you yest stator when no problem is occurring it will show good , switch box can definitely be intermittent failing DVA test all ign components when problem occurs i feel its an ign problem , oh make sure linkages move freely /spark arm
    .................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................

  3. Member
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    #3
    Stator checked fine during test, and by remove modules you mean the idle and detonation modules? If so I unplugged the bullet connectors going to switch box as well as removed purple wires from junction post. No change, do I have to remove every wire off the modules? Also reset tps even though it was in spec.

  4. Member
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    #4
    make Sure nothing is connected to either sw box on wht/ black terminal but the jumper wire from one to the other , is timing steady at idle ?????
    .................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................

  5. Member
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    #5
    Haven’t checked it with a light but it sounds steady, no real big jumps in rpm

  6. Member
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    Jun 2013
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    LONGVIEW TEXAS
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    #6
    good confirms bias circuit is working correctly
    .................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................

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