About leveling TM to get best Active Target 2 performance...

[Johnnyred]

In preparation of installing Active Target 2 in my boat, I realized my TM shaft leans forward of the hull quite a bit. Best I can measure, I would need to raise the back of my TM mount between 3/8" to 1/2".

I had already gotten the attitude pitch numbers for how my boat sits at rest on flat water when I stand at the TM. My project in the driveway today was to loosen the TM mounting bolts enough to allow shims to go between the mount and the hull until I leveled the TM shaft at that same attitude pitch, tighten it back up, and be back at my desk by lunch.

Turns out the bolts have nuts (probably nylock per the dealer) on the underside of the hull and would be very hard to reach... for me at least. When I asked the dealer how they re-mount a TM, he said they drill the bolts out and replace with new. I started to feel over my skis a bit and just buttoned things back up.

Does Active Target 2 have the ability to "level" or adjust the sonar beam in the settings so that users do not have to level their TMs? I am finding out that is not always easily accomplished. I am reasonably handy but also try to not get over my head. I have a hard time imagining Lowrance expects users to un-mount and re-mount their TMs to properly use their product.

Are there other leveling strategies? I assume that moving the transducer a clip or two up or down has repercussions with respect to auto mode or other?

What are AT users doing? Thanks for any advice you guys can give.

[justinp61]

A couple random thoughts. Unless your TM shaft is plumb in all directions the transducer angle will change as you turn the trolling motor, no matter how many adjustments the transducer bracket has. Did the dealer you spoke to say how he'd get nuts on the new bolts after drilling the old bolts out?

I'm going to add forward facing sonar to my boat, just haven't made up my mind which one. When I do buy, I'm not going to mount the transducer to my TM, it'll be a separate mount. I have an idea to build a pole mount that can adjust to keep the shaft plumb, or use an old foot controlled trolling motor with the head and electronics removed. If I do the latter I'll make a bracket for the mount that plumbs the shaft with the boat at rest on the water.

[RFSims]

Even if your trolling motor shaft is plumb, wind waves, boat wake will raise and lower the trolling motor and no longer be plumb. Same thing on a separate shaft.

[Johnnyred]

Did the dealer you spoke to say how he'd get nuts on the new bolts after drilling the old bolts out?

Dealer said long, skinny arms!

[justinp61]

Dealer said long, skinny arms!

[Johnnyred]

Even if your trolling motor shaft is plumb, wind waves, boat wake will raise and lower the trolling motor and no longer be plumb. Same thing on a separate shaft.

While it is a fair point, FFS is used mostly in calmer water. Getting the ducer level so it shoots as straight out as possible in forward mode is important... however you can achieve it.

And my TM is un-plumb enough that it makes jigging vertical and tracking your lure really hard. I fish a lot vertical especially in the winter. Even without installing FFS, I want to correct for this best I can.

[brianf.]

My leveling strategy was to mount my FFS transducer to the shaft with a RAM mount. That way, the leveling adjustments can be made at the transducer itself with the RAM rather than to your TM mount on the boat - which sounds like a huge headache. I’ve had this setup for three years and very happy with it. My particular set-up affixes the transducer to the shaft with a claw-type clamp so it’s easy on/off too. The transducer can literally be removed and re-attached in seconds.

[rudapa]

I watched a video where the person took a rag and folded it under the front of their TM LU until it was "level" then put the level on the AT ducer until it was also level. This leaves you with a ducer pointing straight with the TM direction. It worked for me.

[Johnnyred]

My leveling strategy was to mount my FFS transducer to the shaft with a RAM mount. That way, the leveling adjustments can be made at the transducer itself with the RAM rather than to your TM mount on the boat - which sounds like a huge headache. I’ve had this setup for three years and very happy with it. My particular set-up affixes the transducer to the shaft with a claw-type clamp so it’s easy on/off too. The transducer can literally be removed and re-attached in seconds.

Brain, I like your setup. I am having a hard time really getting it though from the one pic it is pretty close up. Can you share some more pix framing the setup a little further back so we can see all the components and setup? Thanks.

[Johnnyred]

I watched a video where the person took a rag and folded it under the front of their TM LU until it was "level" then put the level on the AT ducer until it was also level. This leaves you with a ducer pointing straight with the TM direction. It worked for me.

Russ, good response. I am having trouble following the procedure, though. Can you share the link to the video you referenced? Or pix of how the procedure works? Thanks.

[rudapa]

I'm at work, I can post a picture when I get home. I looked for the video, but no luck finding it again. Give me a few hours and I'll get you something

[rudapa]

The rag simply lets you level the LU. Hopefully this makes sense:

https://youtube.com/shorts/wAZQp8jqIKI?feature=share

[78Staff]

I watched a video where the person took a rag and folded it under the front of their TM LU until it was "level" then put the level on the AT ducer until it was also level. This leaves you with a ducer pointing straight with the TM direction. It worked for me.

When I ran AT on the TM, I did the same, it's a simple and easy/cheap process to get level.

Not sure if the same vid, but this one goes through the process pretty well.

[Marc Marcantonio]

When I ran AT on the TM, I did the same, it's a simple and easy/cheap process to get level.

Not sure if the same vid, but this one goes through the process pretty well.

His leveling tip is solid, but his "stop sonar" information is mistaken. I am sure the transducer he heard pinging after hitting "stop sonar" was his universal sonar on his Minnkota. AT Stop Sonar does stop the AT transducer from pinging and that is why it is on the menu.

[rudapa]

That's the video I used!! Thanks - less crude than mine! LOL Yes he is one of the ones who confused me about stop sonar.

[Johnnyred]

So the term "level" I used is confusing I guess. I am asking about making the TM shaft "plumb" meaning the shaft is pointing straight down when deployed. If I mount my AT2 ducer to my TM shaft (and mine leans significantly forward of plumb when the boat is on the water at rest and I am standing at the TM pedal), then the ducer is aimed up towards the water's surface and not straight out.

I am new to FFS so I am not sure if this is a non-issue given the sonar beam width or spread? Or if it will shorten the distance away from the boat that I can detect my lure or see structure?

[mikeky]

The rag simply lets you level the LU. Hopefully this makes sense:

https://youtube.com/shorts/wAZQp8jqIKI?feature=share

Won't work very well on my Ghost, as the arrow seldom matches up with the LU

[Basshopper]

How many degrees from straight down is the saft? IF its too many degree then you have to level your TM mount sounds like raise the back of the mount. If its less than 1 then you can use the angle offset. I cancion anyone to not depend on the angle offset without getting as close to zero on the physical mount first. The angle offset is only for fine tuning. Not unlevel TM mounts.

[78Staff]

His leveling tip is solid, but his "stop sonar" information is mistaken. I am sure the transducer he heard pinging after hitting "stop sonar" was his universal sonar on his Minnkota. AT Stop Sonar does stop the AT transducer from pinging and that is why it is on the menu.

Yeah we've discussed that stop sonar part multiple times in a few threads :) - it's agreed he's missing the mark there.

[rudapa]

Won't work very well on my Ghost, as the arrow seldom matches up with the LU

There are videos that show you how to fix the arrow