Seahorse,Rusty 63,Championman HELP

[twitch]

I'm pulling my hair out trying to figure out what's going on with my motor.1991 Johnson Fastrike J150GLEI had carbs rebuilt,linc and sync done and found roller to be out of adjustment for timing still stalling after motor is warm and trying to take-off stalls at least 3 times then will go and run great till the next time I have to take off and putting it on trailer.I really don't want to have to bring it to a dealer but I'm at my wits end been reading a lot of old threads about what sounds like the same problem but a lot were helped by adjusting the roller and arm.Mine is not someone mentioned a VRO diaphram or a vst module or pump what do you guys think??? Help me out please

[ChampioNman]

Al have you hit the choke to see if it helps the issues when it occurs?

[twitch]

tried hitting the choke today no difference

[twitch]

also yesterday when I had it stall twice I checked the fuel bulb and it did not seem as hard as it should have what does this mean it wasn't completely soft like when I first pump it but not rock hard either?

[389 PHIL]

Twitch,those original carbs suck. I know, I have a 91 FS I purchased new. The bowls and bodies both warp after years of use and can also cause the side covers to leak air. My carbs warpped so much the roll pin holding the return spring on the throttle shaft was rubbing the back side of the bowls causing an occasinal high idle [600-700 rpm warm in gear factory spec.].If the pocket in the bowl ,where the two brass tubes drop in, is not sealed tight your going to have trouble. The corners will seal but the middles will sag. Don't reuse bowl gaskets you'll never get those thread like ridges lined up again. The O-ring style gaskets can be reused if their not damaged or very old. And only use the BROWN gaskets [NO BLACK GASKETS] from the throttle plates fowards [flat and o-rings]. Don't forget the fuel filter seal also. Check to see if you have the correct air bleed in the right orfice. Some more updates are thermostats,spark plugs, spark plug wires,pulse limiter valve,and shift assist switch. It takes a special tool to do the linc & sync. A regular timming light won't work. I'll post a couple of sites for you with more info later, I need to look them up. GOOD LUCK

[rudetech1]

The VRO diaphrams are'nt so much an issue as is the seal on the shaft between the air motor and the fuel pump diaphram. Start the engine, prime the bulb and see if the engine dies. If the engine runs better, the pump is weak. If the engine dies, either the diaphram or the seal on the shaft is bad. Either way, you'll be replacing the pump if the issues change. As per the last post, only brown or the new red gasket on the front crank case half.. New bowls,check valves " I replace the intake manifolds in stead of the check valves in the manifolds", new check valves in the front half of the crankcase.And all the other goodies mentioned before will make the engine purr like a kitten on Viagra! Oh yea, the engine you have really pissed of Mercury when it came out, so I'd take care of the 150 hp that pushes 175 hp out of the box.