Model: E175GLECD
Serial: G04354269
I recently purchased a Stratos boat with a 1998 Evinrude 175 motor. The motor runs strong but I have noticed a lot of fuel and oil on the air silencer assembly, fuel bracket and carburetors. Upon further inspection, I noticed that the ground wire on the vacuum switch assembly was completely disconnected.
Does anyone know the purpose of the vacuum switch assembly and/or why someone would have unplugged it?
Thanks in advance!
I reconnected the vacuum switch and took the boat out for a test run. I ran a little less than full throttle and within 3 miles (~10 mins) the check engine light came on and the horn sounded. I immediately let off the throttle and the horn silenced after 10-15 seconds. I ran the boat around 35-40 mph the rest of the evening with no warnings or alarms. I've read other posts which mention fuel starvation. Could this warning be caused by fuel leak I explained in the previous post? Would it be a good idea or a waste of money to go ahead and replace the fuel filter and all fuel lines?
Thanks in advance!
I had a similar experience with my 200 Johnson and it turned out to be the vacumn switch.
Welcome to the boards, with the excess amount of fuel you have coming out along the fuel rails I would remove them and replace all the O rings on both sides, also check your carbs for seeping between the carb body and float bowl. Also check the brass BB on the float bowl for weeping. It could be a Vacuum Switch but it is telling you that there is an issue. The seller probably didn't want to fix it and just disconnected the ground to kill the alarm and silence the horn. While you are in there you may as well replace the O rings on the fuel filter where it goes into the vapor separator. If you don't have a shop manual and feel confident doing the repairs then by all means order a shop manual from your dealer.
Thanks for your suggestions. I think I understand most of them but need a little clarification if possible.
1. Remove Fuel Rails and Replace All O Rings
I couldn't locate the fuel rails on the Evinrude carburetor diagram (see link below) but did locate fuel manifolds. Are fuel rails also referred to as fuel manifolds (part 23 in drawing)?
2. Check For Seeping Between Carb Body and Float Bowl.
I visually inspected all six carbs and there is seepage on all six. Do you think I should disassemble them and replace the float bowl gaskets (part 16)? Are there any other parts I should consider replacing?
3. Check Brass BB on Float Bowl for Weeping
I'm not sure what the brass bb is or what weeping means. I apologize for my ignorance...still trying to learn the jargon.
4. Replace Fuel Filter O Rings
No further explanation needed.
Do you know if it is normal for fuel to leak from the lower carburetors in both assemblies when I turn the maintenance valve on the primer solenoid? I read another post earlier that explained how to test the primer solenoid maintenance valve. When I rotated the valve, I noticed fuel leaking out of the lower carburetor bodies where they connect to the air silencer. Are there any situations where gas should be present in the connection between the air silencer and carburetor?
I really appreciate your suggestions!
Evinrude Carburetor Diagram
http://shop2.evinrude.com/Scri...lRE=8
Evinrude Fuel Bracket Diagram
http://shop2.evinrude.com/Scri...lRE=8
Yes the rail is item 23 to remove it remove the three screws and clips that hold it on and glently pull towards you. You will need 12 335362 O rings for both sides. Item 16 is 335070 and you'll need 6 total if you prefer to go completely through the carbs then order the carb kit and the gasket is included (this is the way to go) you'll also need 6 343613 carb to intake gaskets that go on the back of the carb. When you remove your carb bowls put a straight edge on them and check for warpage. You can put them on a flat surface and use 1000 grit sand paper and flatten them back out. Use a figure 8 motion. If you need to replace them they are # 433000. When you look at the carb bowl you will see a brass BB at the bottom of the bowl below a "groove" it will be on the right hand side of the bowl.
Your primer solenoid shraeder valve should be pointing down. But with the air box off, turn the key to on and depress the key to choke look for any fuel coming out of the port. If so replace it they are bad to develop a hairline crack along the side of them. Hope this all makes sense and helps.
This all makes sense now. I will order the parts and work on the repairs.
I went ahead and checked the primer solenoid shraeder valve. When I push in on the choke, a lot of fuel comes out of the ports on 4 of the 6 carburetors. When I say ports, I mean the large round openings on the carburetors that enter the air assembly. There was no leakage around the red lever. Would you suggest I replace the valve (part 50) or the entire solenoid assembly (part 41)?
Once again, your suggestions are very much appreciated.
Evinrude Fuel Bracket Diagram
http://shop2.evinrude.com/Scri...lRE=8
No need to replace the schraeder valve you need to rebuild the carbs there shouldn't be any fuel coming out of the carbs.
I purchased the carburetor kits today and plan on installing them this weekend. I removed the three starboard carburetors to inspect the throttle body. When I pump the primer bulb, fuel drains from the screens on two bottom openings of the throttle body. However, no fuel drains from the top one. The top throttle body is pretty dry and the bottom two are very saturated with fuel. Does the lack of fuel from the top throttle body suggest that there is an issue with the starboard fuel rail? I'm still learning but I assume that the fluid from the throttle body screens provides fuel to the carburetor's float bowl.
Once again, thanks for you expert advice!
The bottom two will have fuel coming out of them due to gravity. Once they are re-installed the top port will get fuel into it. Remember when you do the carbs don't take them all off at once. There is a spaghetti gasket behind the throttle body.
Great information...Thanks!
When I took off the first carburetor, I compared it to the Evinrude drawing and noticed the high speed orifice (part 15). However, I do not see that orifice on any of the three carburetors that I have disassembled. I confirmed that the drawing is for my specific model (E175GLECD). I have the plug screw and o ring but no high speed orifice. Any idea what I am missing?
The carburetor kit includes Float Valve & Seat kit (part 396522) that contains 1 float pin, 1 spring clip, 1 brass screw, and 1 clear washer. I can't figure out what to do with the clear washer. It's not in the diagrams or in my Seloc manual. The carburetors that I disassembled do not have a clear washer. Any ideas?
Evinrude Carburetor Diagram
http://shop2.evinrude.com/Scri...lRE=8
I found the high speed orifice. I wasn't for sure at first because I couldn't see the number on it. Those are hard to see :)
I still can't figure out where the clear washer goes. I removed the brass screws from one of the carbs and it doesn't have a washer. It's not shown in the drawing either.
Thanks, ChampioNman!
The clear washer isn't used in your application.
I rebuilt each carburetor, replaced all float bowls, replaced the throttle body gaskets, replaced all fuel rail O rings, replaced the fuel filter, fuel filter gasket and fuel filter O ring. I immediately noticed stronger pressure on the primer bulb. Before, it was very difficult to get pressure while priming. So far, so good!
However, there is still a leak from the four bottom carburetor throats/barrels when I prime and then press in on the choke. I have to trim the engine up at an angle to produce the leak. Do you have any suggestions on what I should look at next?
I haven't ran the boat yet to see if the check engine horn sounds. I want to find and fix the fuel leak, set the timing, and adjust the idle prior to taking it out again.
Once again, thanks for all of your suggestions! They have been a tremendous help!
Model: E175GLECD
Serial: G04354269
With the motor level and H20 running on the muffs, start the motor and let it run for a bit. Then with out hitting the choke trim the motor up and see if fuel comes out of the carbs. You may have been flooding the motor.
ChampioNman
Do you know if a special tool is need to adjust the idle mixture screws? They appear to be allen wrench fittings but I can't find a size (sae or metric) that fits. The Seloc manual doesn't mention a size or special tool.
Normally, I wouldn't touch the idle mixture but the previous owner mentioned that he had adjusted them a lot and was not sure if they were set correct. The engine has always idled rough and smoked as if the mixture was rich. I am going to leave them alone and determine if they need adjusting on the water. If so, I will set them to the default (4 turns) and go from there. However, I'll need to make sure I have the proper tool for the job. Thanks for any suggestions.
1998 Evinrude Intruder 175
Model: E175GLECD
Serial: G04354269
Try a 5/32" allen if that doesn't work you will need to order part number 351204 from your dealer it is a special 5 sided bit. (thanks old one)
I purchased the mixture adjustment tool ($18...thanks, evinrude) and took the boat to the lake today for adjustment. Unfortunately, the tool is too long to allow me to adjust the bottom mixture screws without removing the bottom covers (thanks again, evinrude). However, I had set them to 5 turns prior to leaving and was able to adjust the top 4 at the lake to reach a smooth idle with no spitting or excessive smoking.
Next, I ran the boat and am pleased to say that the warning horn no longer sounds once I reach 5k RPM. The RPM at WOT is 6k which is a little high according to the specs but the motor purs at WOT. The motor idled out of gear at 1k RPM and idled in gear at 600 RPM. At WOT (6k RPM), the speedometer read 60-62 MPH. Does that sound right for this motor (E175GLECD) mounted to a jack plate on a DC 97 Stratos 282 (18-3) with a 14 1/2 x 24 prop?
The only issues that I ran into while testing today were 1) motor bogged down during my very first take-off and 2) motor bogged and died twice while loading on the trailer. Off the top of your head, can you think of anything I might want to look at?
I very much appreciate the excellent advice you provided during the carburetor rebuild. Please IM me if there is ever anything I can do in return.
Make sure your throttle roller is touching the timing cam. Those are under the protective cover with the 3 screws holding it on. Loosen the phillips head screw on the throttle arm and adjust it so it makes contact with the timing cam. Happy boating!
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