Motor cuts out while trimming

[Triton19x2]

The tech at Sears did tell me that the battery is so big that if it ever gets fully drained that they are impossible to recharge even with his chargers.......hmmm That would fail a load test

[bloodman]

The tech at Sears did tell me that the battery is so big that if it ever gets fully drained that they are impossible to recharge even with his chargers.......hmmm That would fail a load test

Take it out today and have someone else test it after you check the cable as Don said. Its too similiar a problem. Borrow your buddies battery and try that for a day. Just sayin

[ssv1761982]

As a simple, short term test, couldn't you move the battery cables to a trolling motor battery? This would be a quick and easy way to see if it makes any difference at all.

If it acts the same it would eliminate your starting battery as a possible problem.

[EuropeanAM]

As a simple, short term test, couldn't you move the battery cables to a trolling motor battery? This would be a quick and easy way to see if it makes any difference at all.

If it acts the same it would eliminate your starting battery as a possible problem.

Deep cycle batteries are not recommended for use as a Cranking Battery. This would, however, be a viable (and quick) method to rule out a battery problem. Keep in mind, however, your test results will only be as good as the battery you've connected.

[Triton19x2]

Went to the lake today and problem is still there with an additional symptom. While keeping hot foot steady the motor seems to drop 50 - 100 RPMs just for a second or two and then returns to full power. This happened almost all day for the 3 - 4 hours I was out. I hooked up the timing light when I got home and all 6 cylinders were firing. Of course the motor never has the issues at idle. I have not tried the trolling motor battery yet. Any other suggestions?
BTW, Volts stay steady @ 14.0 V while the motor seem to hold back etc. The volts do drop when the trim is activated. Turned the key on and waited for the merc monitor to come up BEFORE starting the engine and it reads 12.5 V

[EuropeanAM]

Fraser.... you can try the other battery, just to rule that out.

I do, however, suspect that you have something else going on. Probably going to need to analyze the trim motor circuit with an ammeter to determine how much current is being consumed.

Excessive draws can be the result of a faulty/failing trim motor, binding in the trim system, or even simple connection problems in the relay system wiring (such as poor ground wire connections for the relay packs).

Based on your 50-100 RPM loss/gain complaint, I'd also be looking very carefully for any signs of OIL LEAKAGE at or around the flywheel, air compressor, or evidence thereof on the belt, pulleys, or inside the upper cowling.

[Triton19x2]

Thanks Don for the help. I "chickened out" and took the boat into the dealer this afternoon. He said he has seen this before. He mentioned one possibility could be loose connections in the battery switch box. I will report back what he finds. Got a tournament this weekend...naturally

[sethv]

I just helped a buddy with the same boat that you have (Triton) and he had a similar problem. Traced it to the rigging that Triton did with the battery switch. They ran the main motor power leads to the switch box and then to the battery.

I bypassed that switch and ran both leads from the motor DIRECT to the battery and his problems were solved. That switch is junk and is a huge voltage drop that you don't want. That starter sucks a lot of power and from what I could tell it was a low amp rated switch - not near enough for the pull of a starter.

[PlanoKeith]

When I trim getting on a [plane my voltage only goes down to 12.8 or 12.9. from 13.9-14.0. Wonder if the alternator is getting weak or something. I have the pm-1 (31) and have no problems. Even after the shop rebuilt the trim pump they ran the battery down from bleeding the trim system and I charged it back up ( took 8 plus hours to do so ) and after I ran the boat yesterday it only took five minutes to recharge on 10 amp when I got home. Maybe a voltage reg? any way I hope you fix it and good luck.

[EuropeanAM]

I just helped a buddy with the same boat that you have (Triton) and he had a similar problem. Traced it to the rigging that Triton did with the battery switch. They ran the main motor power leads to the switch box and then to the battery.

I bypassed that switch and ran both leads from the motor DIRECT to the battery and his problems were solved. That switch is junk and is a huge voltage drop that you don't want. That starter sucks a lot of power and from what I could tell it was a low amp rated switch - not near enough for the pull of a starter.

VERY good point. As stated previously, engine cables should be connected directly to the BATTERY (and should be the FIRST lug installed).

[PlanoKeith]

I agree that the dealer put a cheap switch in the tritons. I had one that went bad and was losing contact. BUT!! I put a brand new one that was rated for 4 gauge ( Big and heavy duty )and the reason I put it back is so I could recharge the cranking battery. So Are y'all saying that we need to get rid of the main power switch and unscrew the lock nut every time we charge the cranking battery?? Seems like that would do some wear and tear on the nut and the connectors. I recharge my battery every time I come off the lake.

[PumaJack]

I agree that the dealer put a cheap switch in the tritons. I had one that went bad and was losing contact. BUT!! I put a brand new one that was rated for 4 gauge ( Big and heavy duty )and the reason I put it back is so I could recharge the cranking battery. So Are y'all saying that we need to get rid of the main power switch and unscrew the lock nut every time we charge the cranking battery?? Seems like that would do some wear and tear on the nut and the connectors. I recharge my battery every time I come off the lake.

Not sure why you would need to disconnect the battery to charge it. I have a 4 bank charger in my boat connected to all batteries. I charge the cranking battery without disconnecting it everytime after fishing.

[PlanoKeith]

Puma Jack I only have a two bank for the trolling motors and use a conventional charger for the cranking batt. ( Old boat ) I always unplug the trolling motor because I was told it would protect the circuit board in the trolling motor head incase of a surge or something. Since the 2 stroke I know has a lot more electrical parts that are WAAAY more expensive I figured to turn the switch off ( I don't disconnect it I just turn off the main power switch ) it would act in the same way. The boat came with a power switch so I assumed it needed one.

Here is a previous post http://www.bbcboards.net/mercury-3-l...ry-switch.html

[EuropeanAM]

Keith:

Manufacturers are actually REQUIRED to install battery switches when 1000 MCA or higher batteries are recommended/installed.

So you're not wrong to have installed one.... however, I'd be inclined to move the engine leads DIRECTLY to the cranking battery and see if the problem persists. If it's gone... you've narrowed the problem down considerably.

[PlanoKeith]

Don I have had no problems with the new heavy duty main power switch I put on the battery. I was just questioning the charging part where is it ok to charge the battery whitout a switch at all and leaving the main motor leads hooked up? I also read a post about some fellow boaters on here that had trouble with their trim motor relays failing and the trim pump started trimming all night while they were asleep and the next morning wake up to find that their trim pump had burned up from trying to trim up all night so it was recommended to put a main power switch on the cranking battery to make sure this doesn't happen again. I will keep mine on the boat and remember that will be the first place to check If and when I have a problem in the future

[JAZII]

Did you find out what's causing your motor to cut out while trimming?

It might just be your trim motor. Have you done an Amp draw test on your trim motor?

JAZII

[PlanoKeith]

Did you find out what's causing your motor to cut out while trimming?

It might just be your trim motor. Have you done an Amp draw test on your trim motor?

JAZII

Yes Plus +1

Sorry to highjack the thread.

Did you find what the cause of the motor cutting out while trimming was ??

[EuropeanAM]

Yes Plus +1

Sorry to highjack the thread.

Did you find what the cause of the motor cutting out while trimming was ??

+2.... how is that coming?

BTW... in an effort to avoid inadvertant thread hijacking, we're instituting a "one engine per post" policy (see forum announcement). Becomes especially confusing with so many similar member names.

[Triton19x2]

I hope to find out today...(and pick it up). We have had LOTS of rain this week that I am sure made it difficult for the mechanic to take it to the lake so we will see. Got a TX this Sun. Hopefully it is something simple like the battery switch. BTW Don, I did look for oil under the cowl and under the plastic cover that goes over the air compressor. All looked fine including the belt and no play in tensioner etc. that I could see. I will keep you guys in the loop as to what is found and thanks for the help this far to all:thumbup:

[Triton19x2]

Picked the boat up so I can fish the TX this weekend. Mechanic said he went through every connection there is and all checked out fine. He load tested the battery and found it to be in great shape. He said he had another boat with the exact same problem last year. On that one he replaced the altinator and the problem got worse. He then replaced something in the VST and the problem was solved. Sooo he went through my VST and found nothing wrong but he replaced the same part in mine that he did in the other one last year. Sounds like it is a "sleeve" or O ring of some sort. If the problem is still there tomorrow then he suspects a bad connection inside the altinator and will replace that next week for me.
I'll let you know