Evinrude 150 overheat code 22 2001 ficht

[Mr. Jack]

Good afternoon all. I have a 2001 150 OMC ffi serial # G04967405 and I am getting an intermittent overheat warning. I checked the code and it is 22. I shut the motor off after it put it in S.L.O.W mode started it back up and the light was cleared. I checked both Thermostats on the top and they are not clogged and look pretty clean. I believe I changed the temperature sensor about 2 years ago when I had a similar problem that turned out to be a bad system check gauge. I didn't have an infrared temp with me so I am not sure if it was an actual overheat or not. I would like to also mention that the motor sounds on the rough side when I am in between 1400 and 2200 RPM's. Anything outside of that it runs great.

Thank you,

2001 Ficht 150
E150FPXSI
serial # G04967405

[TheJudger]

I don't know what code 22 specifically refers to; don't have diagnostic software. And my 175 2002 Ficht is new to me so I'm new to this but I experienced a similar overheat warning which went off when I pulled back to idle. After this happened twice, EMM kicked into SLOW mode. My problem turned out to be a plugged up EMM cooling line which was later confirmed by software. Since it was going to be a few weeks before motor and software could get together, mechanic encouraged me to disconnect cooling lines, put the flushing hose on it, and see what came out. Virtually nothing did! I put air through the lines using a small portable air compressor on his direction and tried the hose again. Water definately flowing out under city water pressure. Put the motor in the water with the outlet from the EMM disconnected and started motor, gave a little RPM, and water shot about three feet out! The air pressure had definately cleared something out. If you look at the routing of the cooling lines lots of bends and Ts that can cause problems. I've not had a problem since, and as I said, EMM overheat was later confirmed as problem. This was so easy to deal with that I'm going to include in regular maintenance routine.

[Mr. Jack]

Thanks for your reply. I disconnected the EMM line and both top thremostats. Water was flowing freely when I hook up my flushing kit and when I started the motor. Sounds like it is safe to say that water is flowing and I am not sure what is next to look at. I know that there is lower thermostat and will check that tomorrow. The port side upper thermostat did have a kink at the nipple of the thermostat housing which I fixed by cutting the house back.

Do you think that could have been the issue?

What would you suggest I check next?

Thank you.

[Mr. Jack]

Anyone have any ideas? This one is frustrating.

Thanks

[Mr. Jack]

Please any thoughts? What should I do next?

[Danrude]

Is this an ongoing problem or did it just happen once. Have you hooked up the hose and back flushed the motor. Code 22 is the temperature switch activation, so a kinked hose could cause it to overheat and activate the temperature switch.

[NoSloProcraft]

I have run into the same problem on the exact year and model. The plastic screen in the lower unit had a couple of holes in it allowing larger than sand sized debris to get pullled into the cooling system.
Eventually it clogged the cooling hose right before the poppet valve. The hose and valve are located on the port side, the lower motor cover needs to be removed to get at it.
If I remember right there are two bolts holding the poppet assembly to the exhaust housing and a hose clamp to the hose. When i took mine apart the hose was packed with sand a other garbage. I dropped the lower unit and replaced the screen and water pump shortly after.

Check out the drawing, it clogged where hose #7 clamps to the poppet valve housing #6.

[Laguna Freak]

If all of your cooling circuit passages, components check out ok, look at the switch itself. It could be faulty. It should be installed in the starboard cylinder head. You can test it in a deep fryer with a cooking thermometer (do not use digital thermometer on fryer as it may be inaccurate) and DVOM with alligator clip test leads. You'll probably have to replace or repair the insulation on the test leads when done.

Attach the test clip so when the switch activates and completes the circuit to ground you get a resistance reading on your DVOM. The switch should activate around 210 to 215 degrees. If it activates before this temp it is faulty. You will be able to determine this by watching the DVOM read out when set to OHMS. You will have infinite resistance until the switch activates. Once it activates, your resistance will read, probably significantly less than 100 OHMS. After activation, let the oil cool and watch for the temperature where the switch deactivates reading infinite OHMS again. This should be near 155 degrees. Then wait a few minutes and re-heat the oil. If the switch activates before 210 or so degrees, it is malfunctioning and must be replaced.