Flo rite Flapper Replacement - How did you do it?

[schinkr1]

Winterized the boat last weekend, so finally getting around to livewell maintenance. Once the valve is out, the process looks straight forward, but getting the main valve out looks like a royal PITA! I read somewhere that you leave the valve assembly in place, remove the cable and just replace the flappers, but that looks like it would be really hard to work on in that tight space and couldn't imagine you could see what you were doing. For those that changed them, did you remove the whole assembly? If so, how?

Even after you cut off the crimped on hose clamps, it still looks like it would be tough to get out with the hard plumbing and hoses on both ends.

[David g]

I replaced mine on my 185VS. Mine didn't have the crimped clamps and had stainless hose clamps so that was pretty easy but I would just take a pair of dykes and cut them off. Getting the hoses off on the fittings is a bit hard but I just used a large screwdriver and inserted the tip between the end of the hose and applied leverage. Once it moves you can continue to work it towards the end. Repeat for the other hose and then unscrew the valve from the PVC. My valve wasn't hard to unscrew and I used my hand to grip and loosen. Take the cable loose and you are home free. I would not try to take it apart without pulling the hoses, working in the bilge pit is not comfortable and I don't think you could see well enough to use your vision to complete the process. I am not saying that couldn't be done but that might be a feeling kinda thing instead of seeing. Bilge diving kinda sucks. When I installed, I put a bit of lube inside the hoses and that was the easy part. Mine had been in there since the boat was new (2002) and the hoses were pretty hard to move but I had to reseal every hose fitting in the transom and the flow rite was the easiest to do. It took me about five or six minutes to get mine out but I already had the charger and prop shelf removed. Good luck.

[dean c]

Did one in my 07 Z21...but for simplicity, I just did a complete new valve, it wasn't much and made the process easy. Just disconnect plumbing...the valve twists on to that threaded PVC 90 if I remember correctly. Then reconnect plumbing/actuator wire and your done.

[schinkr1]

I'm surprised this process isn't documented somewhere. It's not really that straightforward. I got the two hoses off, but still don't see who I can remove the assembly. When you guys say you just disconnect the plumbing and twist the valve, are you talking about where the black part of the valve meets the white pvc elbow? There's not enough room to spin it off the pvc elbow and it seems pretty tight.

It seems like I need to remove the hoses from both livewell pumps, pull the livewell motors, then remove the whole plumbing assembly, but I'm not sure there is enough room to remove that assembly in 1 piece and you guys didn't mention removing it. Here's what it looks like with the cable and hoses removed.

[blkfalc4]

The whole assembly should have some play as it's not fastened or hard piped in.
Disconnect the cable by removing the philips head screw and unclip from valve, lift valve up enough to unthread from pvc elbow. Walla

[schinkr1]

Used a heat gun to loosen it up and it came off. I was afraid it was going to break. Looks like there was some sort of joint compound on the threads. Got it done. I have to say that system is crap to work on. I'd go back to pulling a plug any day. Took me 2 1/2 hours, bloody knuckles and plenty of swearing. When I took the cable off, I left the clip hanging. As careful as I tried to be putting it back together, the screw fell out. Crazy trying to put a 1/4" screw and nut on in that tight space. I just hope that fixes the issue. The old flappers I took out didn't look bad, didn't have any tears, etc. Guess I'll find out in the spring. Appreciate the help guys.

[TD3]

When I replaced mine I went with the quick connect system. If you plan to keep the boat it's the only way to go IMHO...
https://flow-rite.com/marine/qwik-lok

[LikeToFish]

Used a heat gun to loosen it up and it came off. I was afraid it was going to break. Looks like there was some sort of joint compound on the threads. Got it done. I have to say that system is crap to work on. I'd go back to pulling a plug any day. Took me 2 1/2 hours, bloody knuckles and plenty of swearing. When I took the cable off, I left the clip hanging. As careful as I tried to be putting it back together, the screw fell out. Crazy trying to put a 1/4" screw and nut on in that tight space. I just hope that fixes the issue. The old flappers I took out didn't look bad, didn't have any tears, etc. Guess I'll find out in the spring. Appreciate the help guys.

Just wait until tomorrow when you wake up and find out how many muscles are sore from being in a odd position trying to remove and attach the valve. I replaced my flappers a few years ago. A lot of swearing and bloody knuckles here too. I even had to call Flow-Rite as my valve still leaked after I was done. The tech was great. He told me to make sure the nub on the end of the cable was pulled back as far as it could go against the fastener. Hope that description makes sense. That tip from the tech was all I needed.

[schinkr1]

Yeah, any job that starts with removing a 60 pound battery then crawling into the bilge on your stomach is not going to be good.

[ChrisA]

Yeah, any job that starts with removing a 60 pound battery then crawling into the bilge on your stomach is not going to be good.

My ribs were sore for a week afterwards!

[bassbama]

Just replaced mine in a Z-118 the distance from the 3 way to the transom fitting is about 3" with 1" in-between the two fittings where there is just hose so I had to cut the hose no removing from valve or fitting. After seeing your photo I thought the bigger models like yours had more room but yours is super tight also. I did remove the hose the goes to the livewell over-flow and my bilge pumps are mounted on a board that board is not screwed down so it is movable so I slid it to the left which gave me a couple more inches of room to work with on the valve. I was able to tilt the PVC assembly up just enough to remove the 3-way. Using a close quarters ratcheting tool that you just slip in a Phillips bit helps a lot when reinstalling the cable and lever arm I know Lowes sells them. Next time (which I hope will not be) I will just remove one hose lift up the valve remove the cable remove the 4 screws on the valve body take out the inner assembly and swap it out with a new inner assembly without taking the valve loose. And finally I feel your pain.

[Jeff Hahn]

When I replaced the flappers on my two Rangers, I tried to get the hoses loose, but it was apparent that wasn't going to work without breaking something. So, I just removed the cable, unscrewed the top of the valve, removed the mechanism inside, replaced the flappers, and reinstalled everything. It would help if you are a contortionist, but it's still doable.

[bassbama]

When I replaced the flappers on my two Rangers, I tried to get the hoses loose, but it was apparent that wasn't going to work without breaking something. So, I just removed the cable, unscrewed the top of the valve, removed the mechanism inside, replaced the flappers, and reinstalled everything. It would help if you are a contortionist, but it's still doable.

Jeff that will work if your top of the valve is accessible what's hard to see in the photo and what happened on mine is the top is about 1/2" from a sidewall in the bilge so no way removing all the screws without moving the assembly or removing the valve . I guess some Z models have a little more clearance or the valve is oriented in a different position.

[jc2bg]

I have added this thread to the maintenance tips and tricks list stickied at top of the forum page. Thanks to all who have contributed!

[schinkr1]

Since it might help for future reference, couple of tips I discovered. Those hoses are really thick and stiff, so hitting them with a heat gun first helped. Also, I had a set of cheap Harbor Freight long reach hose grip pliers from another job, they make it much easier to grab and remove the hose if you have a set laying around. To remove the cable, you have to remove the arm that it is attached too. I used a Phillips head bit and 1/4" wrench to break and loose, then spun it the rest of the way by hand. I would also put a small towel down under the assembly. I did this after losing a tiny nut that holds the cable bracket somewhere in the bilge. With the towel, if you drop one of the small screws or nuts, it won't bounce and you'll likely catch it on the towel. I also wrapped that PVC pipe a couple of times with some Teflon tape on reassembly. It had joint compound on it, so wanted to make sure it wasn't going to leak. One thing I didn't do was mark the position of the cable in the clip. Luckily I had a picture of it and was able to adjust it so everything worked, but if I were doing it over, I would take a marker and draw a line so I knew exactly where it was.

[psj706]

There has been a lot of talk about these valves lately. Should water be coming into the livewell when in the "Empty" position? My understanding is that it should not and only allow water to drain OUT. That being said my 2015 lets water in on "Empty" in addition my friend's brand new 2017 let water in as well in the E position the first day on the water. If I am not going to use the wells I will put the valve in "Recirc" and they will stay dry.

[Jeff Hahn]

There has been a lot of talk about these valves lately. Should water be coming into the livewell when in the "Empty" position? My understanding is that it should not and only allow water to drain OUT. That being said my 2015 lets water in on "Empty" in addition my friend's brand new 2017 let water in as well in the E position the first day on the water. If I am not going to use the wells I will put the valve in "Recirc" and they will stay dry.

On both of my Rangers, if the valve is set on EMPTY, water will flow in through the livewell drains up to the level of the lake...in other words, as far as the boat sits down in the water. Think about it...if the valve is set on EMPTY to allow water to drain out into the lake, there has to be an obstruction free passage from the livewell into the lake. If water can flow out from the livewell to the lake, it can also flow the opposite way, fromt he lake into the livewell, up to the level of the lake.

[psj706]

On both of my Rangers, if the valve is set on EMPTY, water will flow in through the livewell drains up to the level of the lake...in other words, as far as the boat sits down in the water. Think about it...if the valve is set on EMPTY to allow water to drain out into the lake, there has to be an obstruction free passage from the livewell into the lake. If water can flow out
from the livewell to the lake, it can also flow the opposite way, fromt he lake into the livewell, up to the level of the lake.

Check out this link. According to this water should not fill the live well when in empty.

https://flow-rite.com/sites/all/file...log_valves.pdf

[dean c]

On both of my Rangers, if the valve is set on EMPTY, water will flow in through the livewell drains up to the level of the lake...in other words, as far as the boat sits down in the water. Think about it...if the valve is set on EMPTY to allow water to drain out into the lake, there has to be an obstruction free passage from the livewell into the lake. If water can flow out from the livewell to the lake, it can also flow the opposite way, fromt he lake into the livewell, up to the level of the lake.

Both of mine as well...

[dean c]

Check out this link. According to this water should not fill the live well when in empty.

https://flow-rite.com/sites/all/file...log_valves.pdf

I see what your looking at...but since both my boats have let water in on empty since they were new, I have to believe the valve is some combination of systems 3/4?