Trying to seat the rings questions

[bama jim]

Ok guys I have a 2017 150 sho making oil though I don't know
how that's possible without over filling it. I was advised here
to get it up to wot and run for an hour. So I go down to the bay
this weekend and it's dead calm, so I let her rip. To get it up to
6000 rpm I had to raise my atlas to 4 and lots of trim. I have also advised
that my water pressure should be 15 psi, mine was 10 psi so I backed
it down and ran my hour at 5700. Any more advise.

[vmax]

Ok guys I have a 2017 150 sho making oil though I don't know
how that's possible without over filling it. I was advised here
to get it up to wot and run for an hour. So I go down to the bay
this weekend and it's dead calm, so I let her rip. To get it up to
6000 rpm I had to raise my atlas to 4 and lots of trim. I have also advised
that my water pressure should be 15 psi, mine was 10 psi so I backed
it down and ran my hour at 5700. Any more advise.

What I did when mine was making oil, after it had about 8-10 hours on it, was run it hard for a few hours with it trimmed down and the jack plate at it lowest point. You won't get a lot of rpm's, maybe 4500. Need to get the motor hot to help set the rings.

[J Risco]

What I did when mine was making oil, after it had about 8-10 hours on it, was run it hard for a few hours with it trimmed down and the jack plate at it lowest point. You won't get a lot of rpm's, maybe 4500. Need to get the motor hot to help set the rings.

While this has worked for some, I dont agree with the plowing method. When an engine is bogged down (WOT but not turning expected rpm) it will continue to pour on fuel attempting to increase rpm. This wont let cylinder wall temps get as high because of the extra fuel. It's better to get rpm as close to 6K as possible for these runs, which will get temps up higher to seat the rings.

The plowing theory came about because of fact that it's good to load rings during break-in, which it is, but getting temps up is more important in the case of the SHO's.

I've heard cases of both methods working, but more by getting rpm as close to 6K as possible for a couple long runs. Also, I spoke with a fellow engine builder and he agrees with my thoughts that the excess fueling by a bogged down motor isnt the best way either. Neither of us however have data to back this theory so take it for what it's worth to you.

[Randy T]

If you can lower that motor do it to get water pressure so you can run WOT with out backing down.
I have also noticed many people on here mentioning that the rings wont seat seem to be having a more difficult time with the 115, 150 and 175 motors. Longer harder runs is what you will need. The 4.2s typically take a few 20-30min runs.

I did a comparison with trim full down and full trim up. It is floating around this board someplace. Anyway the difference was something like 10 degrees cooler, 1,000 less rpm, and not even fuel flow of 1gph difference. All number from NMEA 2K. I know this.... My next SHO I know how I will be broken in by high RPMs.

[bama jim]

So is it acceptable if I am trimmed a lot to get 6000 rpm is water pressure
is at 10 psi or should I back down to make sure I am at 15 psi
as most have advised. Just trying to get it right.

[BoatBuggy]

So is it acceptable if I am trimmed a lot to get 6000 rpm is water pressure
is at 10 psi or should I back down to make sure I am at 15 psi
as most have advised. Just trying to get it right.

The Command Link gauge operation manual states the following.....

When the cooling water pressuredecreases to 10 psi or less, turn the
engine off and check the cooling water inlet for clogs.

That would mean as long as you are over 10 PSI at WOT, you're good to let her eat.....

[J Risco]

If you can lower that motor do it to get water pressure so you can run WOT with out backing down.
I have also noticed many people on here mentioning that the rings wont seat seem to be having a more difficult time with the 115, 150 and 175 motors. Longer harder runs is what you will need. The 4.2s typically take a few 20-30min runs.

I did a comparison with trim full down and full trim up. It is floating around this board someplace. Anyway the difference was something like 10 degrees cooler, 1,000 less rpm, and not even fuel flow of 1gph difference. All number from NMEA 2K. I know this.... My next SHO I know how I will be broken in by high RPMs.

Well would you look at that... there IS data floating around this site somewhere to back what I was saying!

As far as water psi goes, Boat buggy is right, keep it above 11 psi and you are good to go. Most boats with normal 2.5"-4" under the pad setup dont have a problem with water psi, at least with the 4.2L, not sure about the small block SHO lowers.

[vmax]

While this has worked for some, I dont agree with the plowing method. When an engine is bogged down (WOT but not turning expected rpm) it will continue to pour on fuel attempting to increase rpm. This wont let cylinder wall temps get as high because of the extra fuel. It's better to get rpm as close to 6K as possible for these runs, which will get temps up higher to seat the rings.

The plowing theory came about because of fact that it's good to load rings during break-in, which it is, but getting temps up is more important in the case of the SHO's.

I've heard cases of both methods working, but more by getting rpm as close to 6K as possible for a couple long runs. Also, I spoke with a fellow engine builder and he agrees with my thoughts that the excess fueling by a bogged down motor isnt the best way either. Neither of us however have data to back this theory so take it for what it's worth to you.

All I know is the plowing method worked for me. No more making oil after about 10-12 hours.

[friogatto]

Didn't think the 150 SHO had the plasma lined cylinders. Thought this was a 4.2l issue.
I say if you don't have the plasma lined cylinders to use the Yamaha breakin procedures. No need to run 45 min at WOT to break in standard rings.

[98skeeter202]

Heat is your friend.

[bama jim]

I don't know what kind of cylinders it has and don't care. I bought
man other Yamaha because they have always been dependable and
i am no mechanic all I know is I am at a little under 10 hours and I check
Oil before every trip and it keeps rising on the dip stick. Going
to quit worrying about if it screws up Yamaha can fix it.

[vmax]

I don't know what kind of cylinders it has and don't care. I bought
man other Yamaha because they have always been dependable and
i am no mechanic all I know is I am at a little under 10 hours and I check
Oil before every trip and it keeps rising on the dip stick. Going
to quit worrying about if it screws up Yamaha can fix it.

Another thing I did was change the oil after the 10 hour break in to synthetic.