Does anyone know what rotating the stator one bolt hole would accomplish if it ran fine once before in its existing location?
Does anyone know what rotating the stator one bolt hole would accomplish if it ran fine once before in its existing location?
That would mean you are moving the stator 90* and that would cause the cables not to reach. If you have to pull the flywheel again, I would check the index mark on the flywheel collar. There is a diagram on the CDI site that shows the correct orientation of the marks.
By by asking what do they say do are you suggesting the guidelines there are better than those in the service manual and any suggestion I may get here?[/QUOTE]
My post was not to suggest that CDI knows anything at all about our motors. It was a sarcastic response that I should not have made. If I were you I would delete that info and never go to their site again. JMHO Did you get the real OMC service manual for your motor? If you did can you find any reference to the regulator/rectifier in the testing procedures for your ignition system. Cracked blocks has never been a problem with your style of motor. I could go on, but that wouldn't help you get your problem fixed. If you have a real good multi meter, I would follow the ohms testing in the service manual, it might give us a clue to the problem, before you start throwing parts at the motor. Even running on the dyno a high speed miss sometimes wouldn't be heard, I indexed the flywheel as described in your service manual, It wasn't always that cylinders cross fired. although that was the higher percentage problem, sometimes a cylinder would just drop out and not show up in the flash of the timing light.
[QUOTE=ChampioNman;8367721] If you have to pull the flywheel again, I would check the index mark on the flywheel collar.
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Age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill !!
Last edited by 316jughead; 04-29-2017 at 10:34 PM.
Sorry Juggy I used the incorrect term I should have said Flywheel Sensor Magnet. Here's a link to the page.
http://www.cdielectronics.com/wp-con...20-%202012.pdf
i do not want to hi-jack this thread. But, my 89' 200 seems to run great until WOT. It doesn't launch hard at all. Sometimes it's hard to get on plane. I've never tried to max it out. But, it seems to max out around 5,000 RPM's. In my mind I've been thinking the timing wasn't advancing like it should. But, I don't know how to test this.
I just wanted to let everyone know what the final problem ending up being. After rechecking all electronics I finally broke down and did the high speed shutdown. Moisture on one plug. I was starting to fear the cracked block but it was a leaking head gasket. Not enough to show up in compression test but had a very slight leak in leakdown test on two cylinders. Apparently enough to let water in but only at 5000+ rpm. This is the same head gasket that blew last fall (considerably different symptoms last time). Using layout fluid and piece of glass it appears there are a few spots on the head where those two cylinders face each other that just don't quite touch the glass surface. Since this is the exact spot the gasket blew last time I'm guess this is the cause. How difficult is it for me to get the head surface exactly true vs paying a machine shop to true it up?
The cost is so cheap to have a machine shop do it, Maybe $20-$40 to have the heads surfaced, I wouldn't even do it any other way. If no machine shops around then the piece of glass is the way you are going to have to go.
Joe Galada - Tamaqua, PA
2004 Ranger 521VX - Yamaha 250 SHO