Sounds to me like you've answered your own question here without knowing it. If the switch & choke is wired wrong, it could be choking the engine all or some of the time causing the original problem.Originally Posted by RisenAngel
Sounds to me like you've answered your own question here without knowing it. If the switch & choke is wired wrong, it could be choking the engine all or some of the time causing the original problem.
"Do not believe everything you read or see on the internet" -- Abraham Lincoln.
That would make sense, but I haven't messed with the wiring for the ignition system at all...Yet :)
OK then,, let us know what you find!!!
Well bad news, I rebuilt the carbs, manually primed it because the choke is still popping fuses and went to crank it. It putted once and then quit. After that it wouldn't start at all. Frustrating and I'm near my wits end. The plugs were all soaked after me trying to start it for like 10 or 15 minutes. About ready to grenade this thing lol. Anyone have any suggestions?
Yes, I have a suggestion. Fix the darn fuse blowing thing before you burn it up. Manual priming should be done with a short quick turn, it is so easy to flood out. I think you learned that.
Alright so pull the purple white off the switch itself and test for a short somewhere between the switch and the solenoid?
Think we told you to do that awhile ago.
Well, i checked the connection at the solenoid and that still blew the fuse, So this afternoon after work i'll pull the ignition switch and check the purple/white wire coming off of it. I was just thinking about it in the shower and I had a question. The kill switch serves as to remove the spark from the engine when the lanyard is pulled correct? Could a faulty kill switch cause the engine to flood? I'm sure it's not a bad idea to check the kill switch since I plan on removing the whole panel this afternoon. How do I go about testing that wire and what should I be looking for? Another update my wife neglected to tell me that the day it quit and wouldn't restart a faint burning smell was noticed. That would have been somewhat helpful to know before I started tearing off into everything. I have a feeling that whatever is wrong there should a wire that's scorched or melted or perhaps maybe the primer solenoid is burned up inside and sending too much fuel into the carbs? I'm just spit balling so if any of theories sound dumb just e-choke me from your keyboard. :) Again I appreciate all of the expertise and patience you all are showing me.
You sure you don't have the puple wire on the purple/white post on the ignition switch? Kill switch only kills spark nothing to do with fuel delivery.
BTW use this link for your ignition switch troubleshooting.
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/ref...ionSwitch.html
I'm pretty sure. I've never messed with the ignition switch or it's wiring until this evening coming up. I'm tracking on the kill switch part but if that's faulty and the stops the spark wouldn't fuel continue to be pumped into the carbs ?
Not really, you don't have enough vacuum pulses to drive the VRO until it is running. That is what the primer bulb and primer solenoid are for.
Oh. I should mention my VRO was removed before I even purchased the boat. Not sure if that changes anything.
Well how are you getting fuel into the Vapor tank??
Good question, hence the reason i'm here. I'm trying to learn things also but since you've brought it up... I've read online and in one of 316's posts about a vapor separator tank? (Don't know where that is.) I'm imagining that maybe there is a fuel pump somewhere or does the engine suck fuel in once it starts running?
Anyone know where I can order a replacement ignition switch from?
Please get a service manual for your motor. Get a real OMC manual for your year of motor, not an aftermarket one. Check on E-Bay.
You would be better off tossing in the towel and visiting a knowledgable technician.
My mechanic won't be back until Tuesday/Wednesday so I'm trying to learn as much as I can. I decided not to just go out and buy an ignition switch so I've broken out the manual and begun running some tests on different electrical components. On the ignition/key switch everything appears to be ok with the exception of testing terminals B and C with the key in the start position. When checking for continuity it showed 5 ohms instead of infinity. Everything else showed either no continuity or full continuity as it's supposed to. With it showing 5 ohms instead of full continuity should I be concerned with that?
I moved onto the primer solenoid to test for continuity and with the primer solenoid itself tested within tolerance at 4.7 ohms. I pulled the fuel filter and checked it out...everything looks there minus some very fine particles but nothing to worry about. The power pack, and rectifier are all brand new so no issues there so unless i got a defective unit those are ok, however I won't know that until my technician returns with his factory tools. I took a look at the vapor separator also and it looks ok per the manuals specs.
My, my how quick we learn when we breakout a manual and start testing.Happy Memorial Day to the great folks at Ft. Hood!
OOPS! I got on the wrong thread, the guy I was trying to help didn't know what a fuel pump was.Don't mind me, just having fun. Go to the link ChampioNman posted to test the switch. Which manual do you have? Your going to learn a lot about your motor, keep asking and we will try to help.
Reply With Quote