HPDI High Pressure Pump Screen Replacement

[Rich Z]

Sooner or later, the screen filters will have to be replaced. Most motors will experience a loss in rpm or poor acceleration - not reaching full potential. The complete job takes less than a couple of hrs.

After disconnecting the main battery terminal and unplugging the boots from the spark plugs remove the coil cover and support it so it doesn’t hang on the ECU electrical connections.

Remove the gray hose from either side between the plates and all bolts identified with a red X.



Fold the starboard fuel rail pressure line away from the plate. The port side plate can be folded away with the fuel rail line still attached. To remove the plates, carefully pull and pry away from the main body of the pump. The only thing that is holding the plates at this point are the o-rings on two large fuel pipes inside. These o-rings are the same size as the ones on your injectors. The screens are located behind these fuel pipes identified in pic2 with O.



Use a tightly fitted screw and washer to remove the screens as shown in pic 3 & 4. I found that using dikes on the neck of the screw will easily pop the screens out.
There are four screens to replace (one in each large fuel pipe cavity) and these are the same size screens as in your injectors.






You can obtain replacements screens from an injector shop like Brucato or Hydrotec for little or nothing. The o-rings should not have to be replaced unless there are visible tears or cuts on them. Install new screens using a fitted punch or something suitable that spans over the brass edge and tap them back into the cavity. Replace the fuel pipes with large o-rings with some oil on them and press the cover plates back on. Use red loc-tite on the cover plate bolts and fuel rail hose fittings. I don’t have the torque specs so don’t over tighten as the assembly is made from aluminum. Replace the coil cover with plug wires and you’re done.

TIP; if you happen to pull the screen out without the brass neck on the screen, carefully screw in a tapered 6mm tap to remove the brass from the cavity.
A small amount of fuel will spill when removing the plates so have some shop towels handy.
Avoid static electricity; each time you are near the motor touch a good ground source before touching any fuel related components.

Moderator, please pin this on top of the page.




Modified by Rich Z at 9:00 PM 8/30/2011

[BuzzB8]

Thanks Rich. I think this will be used by a bunch of people.

[classic242]

Great post Rich, a lot of people will benefit from your experience !!
Great Job !!

[BruceAlmighty]

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by classic242 &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">Great post Rich, a lot of people will benefit from your experience !!
Great Job !!</td></tr></table>

Thanks Rich

[flashnc]

fuel joint.jpg

While this post is several years old it was a great help in allowing me to replace my micro filters (screens). I will note for those who may still be trying to do this, that when you remove the back plates the fuel joints can come off with the plate or stay stuck in the pump. They are held in at both ends by O-rings. In my case one joint stayed in the plate and one stayed in the pump on both sides. You can see them in the picture, circled in red. The screens are in the pump side, so if your fuel joint stays in the pump side when you pull the plate, you will need to remove the joint to get to the screens. This is easier said then done as there is little to get a hold on to pull with. The first one i tried wrapping the joint to protect it then using vice grips to pull it out. This accomplished the job, but destroyed the O-ring and damaged the joint. The other one i tried prying with a screw driver on the lip closest to the base. That worked with no damage to the O-ring, but some slight damage to the metal lip. While this probably would have no affect, i decided to replace both. A fuel joint with both O-rings runs about $90, (68F-13815-10-00 JOINT) so cost me $180. Also only 3 in-stock in the country according to supplier. They got me 2. They can always order them from Japan, but you add a couple weeks of waiting. I'm still waiting on mine, so in the mean time I have replaced the VST filter and the in-line strainer that goes above the VST pump and the spark plugs. I figure I have saved myself @$2500 over having dealer replace HPFP and the other filters. Of course that's only true if this fixes the problem - will update once i get her back together and to the lake.