Tons Of Smartcraft related questions

[thomasfouraker]

I have a 2001 Optimax 225hp that is Smartcraft Compatible. Currently I have all analog gauges and I would like to switch to an older set of Smartcraft SmartTach and SmartSpeedo Gauges. Right now I have both gauges but only have the harness for the Tachometer.

Here is the back of my tach:

Here is the whole set up with harness, tach, harness adapter, and terminal block:

From what I understand, the red goes to a constant 12 V, the purple connector goes to the tach, the other end of the harness goes to the adapter and the adapter leads get connected to the terminal block along with there corresponding wires from the main engine harness.

Here is the harness and harness adapter:
My question here is, the tan/blue wire is in the main harness but not in the harness adapter. At the other end the tan blue wire is just stubbed out as shown:
Its almost as if it just dead ends???

As far as under the cowl connections.......

Do I hook the wires from the this main engine harness to the terminal block?


It looks like I have two gray tach wires under the cowl. One is capped off while the other is connected to another gray wire. Why is this? Is one for digital readout and one for analog?

The one gray wire that is capped off is in a loom with a brown wire with white stripe (trim?). This is plugged into a connector that has a blue and white wire coming out the other side. What is the blue and white wire and why is the brown w/ white stripe wire connected while the gray one is not?

Lastly, I have a capped off purple wire. What is it there for?

I do have a purple smartcraft 5 pin connector under the cowl. Is this not used for the SmartTach?

Sorry for the long post. All help is appreciated. Thanks guys!

[EuropeanAM]

Thomas:

As we've discussed by email several times, the Smart Tach is MEANT to be combined with the Smart Speed Gauge.

When BOTH gauges, and BOTH harnesses are in place, NO SPLICING, CUTTING, or MODIFYING of the harness should be necessary at the dash.

You would simply connect the appropriate wires at the terminal block, and plug the 5-pin connector into the keyswitch harness.

As for the wires at the engine, only one of the gray "tach" leads is connected. Can't really tell which from your pictures.... but when you locate the correct harness (on ebay, etc.) for the Smart Speed guage, you'll know pretty quickly (one will work, one will not).

Don't tap into the tan w/blue wire at the dash end of the harness.... it's for a warning horn circuit (you probably already have a warning horn in place).

Sorry I couldn't obtain a replacement harness for these for you.... but as I stated, they're NLA as a separate component.

The five pin connector you referenced under the cowling is probably a 10-pin connector (with only 5 wires in it). This connector is for the suggested "current generation" Smartcraft Instrument Harness (which is not compatible with your Smart Tach/ Smart Speed setup).

[thomasfouraker]

It was my understanding I could run power and operate the Smart Tach WITHOUT the Smart Speedo.

As far as the 10 pin connector, yes it only has 5 wires going to it. This allows me to use ANY Smartcraft instrumentation? I have read alot of conflicting information as to what will work. Here is an advisory from Mercury stating such (number 10) http://www.marinepartsman.com/...3.PDF

I understand you are probably growing impatient with me and I apologize. Can I just get a smartcraft sc1000 systems monitor along with a blue can cable and run it from the motor to the gauge and keep my analog tach gauges?

[EuropeanAM]

You can utilize ANY True Smartcraft System (System Monitor, MercMonitor, System Tach & Speed, System View, or Vessel View).

A blue data cable (with terminating resistors at both ends of the truck) is required between the 10 pin plug at the engine, and the dash/instruments.

So yes, the System Monitor is a simple, and viable solution.

The document you referenced above is confusing to you, based specifically on the "Smart Tach" you currently have. Take that out of the picture.... and it simplifies things immensely.

Let me know if I can be of further assistance.

[thomasfouraker]

Alright Don this is what we have thus far. I have the Speedometer powered up along with the tach. However I am not getting any function out of the tachometer as far as RPM readings (needle isnt moving). It allows me to scroll and calibrate through all parameters. As soon as I turn the key on it moves a little but does not budge from 0 when the motor is running. I disconnected the main harness gray tach wire from the terminal and hooked it back up to my analog gauge and it functions just fine. These older VDO smartcraft gauges are pulse driven? Any suggestions? I also have in calibrated as "Single" Engine.

[EuropeanAM]

Have you tried connecting the OTHER gray tachometer lead inside the cowling as before stated?

[thomasfouraker]

Yea I have tried that, The capped gray wire does not run my Analog Tach nor my SmartTach, The gray wire that WAS hooked up ran my analog tach and not my SmartTach.......I think I am going to forfeit and go with a Smartcraft System Monitor. Do I need a junction box to run the link gauges or can I just get by with a Gender Bender and "daisy chain" the link gauges?

[EuropeanAM]

If running the SYSTEM MONITOR.... you need only the instrument, and a BLUE DATA CABLE (with yellow bands on each end, indicating terminating resistors are present).

System Link gauges connect to the System Link "plug" on the Blue Data Cable.

No other harnesses/adapters/juntion boxes needed for this particular setup.