anyone that's had experience with this stuff, exactly how stiff is it with proper installation? what does the hardened product look like, high density foam maybe? and how many gallons did it take to redo the transom?
this looks like a very reputable option to a 1.5 inch thick piece of non-wood core material, and less man hours.
at your own risk. seen too many people have problem with the product and wish they didnt. do it right use a build uo of 1/2 marine plywood encasing each layer in glass to the outside of the boat. do it once and do it right!!!
If done right, Seacast is good. It bonds to the two outer fiberglass shells and it is rock solid. The main thing is getting all the old rotten wood out. The kit will come with enough of it to do your transom.
Now that being said, If you have the money you may want to take it to a glass shop and get the transom replaced. You can get composit stuff, or glassed wood. Even if you get a wood transom, as long as you seal it off good, and reseal all thu hull bolts, fitting ect. every couple of years... it will last for ever. Several options here. I figure the seacast would be a bout hafe of a wood transom professionally installed. But again, you need to factor other things into this, like how long your gonna keep the boat, ect.
Check around at your glass shops and get quotes... most of them only cut the splash well now instead of removing the top cap, so the time and labor has went down alot... you may be surprised.
i plan on doing this myself, to an old boat that I'll likely keep for 15-20 years. It's only 14' long max 75 hp, so i plan on making it a bass/flats boats. Currently the boat is stripped except for the motor. i'm gonna remove the "light" top cap, fix the transom, then flip the hull over while it's light and repaint. This is gonna be all composite construction except for an aluminum strip that the top cap screws will tighten to. A thick enough composite core would cost me around $350, which includes a lot of extra work.
Well a boat like that i would use seacast. for sure... last forever. Post some pictures
I'm planning on using seacast on an 85 kingfisher 17 ft v hull. This is the first I have ever heard about anyone having any problems with seacast. Could you tell me exactly what problems they had? I'm not planning on replacing mine until this winter, the transom was plated with aluminum by the previous owner, so I'm pretty sure if I take it easy it should make the season.
i've searched around, and a lot guys are using a 1.5 inch close-cell foam core, which'll run ya about $350. Then i see this pourable foam that's 99% close-cell, 16 pound density, that's supposedly hard as rock and used to make fake-wood furniture. I'd like to know if anyone has even tried it first
I wouldent fool with foam.. I would either do the seacast, or go back with plywood and epoxy resin.
i think my best bet is to go with wood. for the price, it's the most logical choice. If i do it correctly, it should still last as long as i have the boat
I used the sea cast and I had no problems. The only hard part about the job was removing the wood. My transom is very solid!!! I was quoted 3500.00 and that was to remove half the top cap. They also told me it would be very hard to match the metal flake. I think it cost me about 700.00 for everything including tools to get the wood out.
Modified by soonerskeeter at 12:56 PM 4/26/2008
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