Pro XS 4 Stroke

[PMantle]

Sorry Paul: While you're entitled to that opinion, I guarantee you if we were to haul a bass-boat down virtually any interstate in LA we could video from behind with each type and have a pretty good example of what's happening.

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Yes, we would. And the rotational force is only reduced by the one going straight to the trailer. From Basscat(There's lots of these BTW) "We get it, because they do relieve pressures on the hydraulic trim systems. They save your trim system from long term wear damage. The short Toters do very little to save a transom, or splashwell area, from damage while towing."

[22RangerZ520R]

I have the DD26

[Zone18]

I have maybe a silly question but every boat I've ever purchased brand new has come with one of those old school motor toters from the lower to the trailer. Do any new boats come equipped from the manufacturer with the shorter braces? My thought is that if the manufacturers are equipping their units with these motor to trailer style toters then maybe there's something behind that? Not really arguing for or against. Again I own a DD26. This argument to me has been a forever one and I really wish a qualified unbiased engineer would put it to rest.

[Jbass123]

I’m not sure that any new boats come from the factory with a transom saver. Those are typically added by the selling dealer. The type of dealer-recommended transom saver depends upon the boat/trailer model. I’m on my 6th bass boat since 2010 and my top-notch dealer recommended a stop-stick type transom saver [the ones you can almost put in your pocket] for all of them. All Ranger boats, with 6-cylinder or 8-cylinder engines. And of course, as we hear on this forum all the time, I’ve trailered 5-6 thousand miles every year without even the tiniest stress crack or lower unit issue.

[Zone18]

I’m not sure that any new boats come from the factory with a transom saver. Those are typically added by the selling dealer. The type of dealer-recommended transom saver depends upon the boat/trailer model. I’m on my 6th bass boat since 2010 and my top-notch dealer recommended a stop-stick type transom saver [the ones you can almost put in your pocket] for all of them. All Ranger boats, with 6-cylinder or 8-cylinder engines. And of course, as we hear on this forum all the time, I’ve trailered 5-6 thousand miles every year without even the tiniest stress crack or lower unit issue.

I love the DD26, its light, easy to go on and off. Both styles offer trim cylinder protection, so my main focus would be on transom stress. Just would like an engineer to give me that warm fuzzy that I am using the best device. I totally understand that all boats/trailers are different, but in my mind the physics and forces are the same no matter what brand/type of boat. I remember from my school days that a triangle is one of the best support structures, but does having that support triangle completely on the transom differ from having one of the corners of the triangle supported by an added support(trailer) make a difference when talking about the forces generated by a boat motor on transom. Im sure this topic has been beat to death, but I think the reason why is there has not been a difinitive answer supported by facts. Not trying to start a riot here, as I am truly interested in the science/physics.

[Jbass123]

My guess is that factory engineers for boat companies don’t want to make a recommendation for a transom saver because they want to distance their companies from any liability possible. Not to be cynical, but there has to be a reason why boats don’t come with factory transom savers, and money is the most likely reason.

[Zone18]

Would be a great episode of Myth Busters

[alli ss]

Just think, if you were to push down on your motor with both types, where does that force go? I am an engineer, although electrical, but you can draw it on paper and see where the force goes with each type. I dont remember motors coming in the boat with folks and needing a leash before everybody started using the little trim ram savers. The bigger the triangle, the more stable it is.

[FlaPhoenix]

I appreciate everyone's help and advise on this. I ended up ordering a motormate from tackle warehouse since they had the one I needed on sale for $116 with free shipping so hopefully it will do the job.

[PMantle]

Just think, if you were to push down on your motor with both types, where does that force go? I am an engineer, although electrical, but you can draw it on paper and see where the force goes with each type. I dont remember motors coming in the boat with folks and needing a leash before everybody started using the little trim ram savers. The bigger the triangle, the more stable it is.

[BMCD]

Look all of these designs reduce kinetic energy. less movement less kinectic energy, meaning less excessive force, or shock, that could exceed the transoms capabilities, or motor bracket capabilities. They all save the trim/tilt hydraulics from getting pounded. Choose what you want.

I choose TH marine sticks and clips. prolly the cheapest, easiest, less bulky solution out there.

[RazorCat]

Is there anything made that would actually take the weight of the motor off the transom like some of the older boats have where it goes from the trailer to the foot of the motor? I looked at it the other day before I dropped it off at the dealer to have the new motor installed and it looks to me like if there was an actual transom saver for this boat/motor combination it would have to be about 6 foot long to reach from the trailer to the foot of the motor.

You’re going to get all kinds of opinions and recommendations on which type is better or worse. There’s not single, definitive test that I’m aware of that proves the superiority of one type over the other. I’ve tried both, and regularly use a MotorMate with my Mercury on a BassCat Sabre FTD.
I also have the tried and true stick type that goes from LU to trailer roller. Both work adequately, but I can honestly say that my motor moves/jolts/wobbles, whatever you call it, much less when I cross railroad tracks, or on washboard pavement, with the old stick type. I’ve tested both types on the same route at the same speed quite a few times. The type which is coincidentally recommended by BCB.
Go with what your boat manufacturer recommends. If they don’t have one, use whatever you like.

[alli ss]

I’m not sure that any new boats come from the factory with a transom saver. Those are typically added by the selling dealer. The type of dealer-recommended transom saver depends upon the boat/trailer model. I’m on my 6th bass boat since 2010 and my top-notch dealer recommended a stop-stick type transom saver [the ones you can almost put in your pocket] for all of them. All Ranger boats, with 6-cylinder or 8-cylinder engines. And of course, as we hear on this forum all the time, I’ve trailered 5-6 thousand miles every year without even the tiniest stress crack or lower unit issue.

my phoenix came from the factory with 2 pvc pipes over the trim rams and the motor flopped to the side because no stops were installed