I like the way the epoxy brings out the depth and colors but I am having a issue with little indentions or pot marks that show up during curing. I am putting the finish on heavy and them brushing off the excess as prevously suggested but some times the epoxy just acts like it doesn't want to stick to certain places on the bait. Any ideas????
Thanks,
Kent
Lots of variables...
I recommend the following:
Try not to handle the baits too much by hand
Put baits in ziploc bags if you are going to wait a while to clear coat (will keep dust/dirt off)
Try heating the bait up with a hair dryer right before application of clear (will pop epoxy bubbles on contact with lure + it will make epoxy easier to apply)
asipes tips are spot on. I have also found that some types of paint cause the little spaces where the epoxy does not want to stick. A couple things I do in addition to those are I put a light coat of spray "sealer" that is called low odor matte finish made by Krylon. Also as i am coating I heat the bait a little before and after the coating. Hope that helps.
Nothin like catchin 'em on your own creation!
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by asipes »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">Lots of variables...
I recommend the following:
Try not to handle the baits too much by hand
Put baits in ziploc bags if you are going to wait a while to clear coat (will keep dust/dirt off)
Try heating the bait up with a hair dryer right before application of clear (will pop epoxy bubbles on contact with lure + it will make epoxy easier to apply)
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ding ding
I think the heat from the epoxy curing causes a reaction to the surface of the bait and IF it is cool, you will get this. In my refinishing shop, we make certain everything is at the same temp when shooting finish and it makes an incredible difference in how the finish flashes off and levels out. So it only makes sense that if you are applying epoxy to a cold substrate, it is going to react adversely! My 2 coppers worth!
Thanks,
I will try heating the baits, I know when I heat the epoxy it flows much better but it also sets alot quicker.
Thanks again,
Kent
wipe the bait down thoroughly with denatured alcohol. Do a test first to make sure it won't affect the paint. This will remove any oils from your hands or other foreign substances that might cause the finish to create "fish eyes".
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by thedude »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">wipe the bait down thoroughly with denatured alcohol. Do a test first to make sure it won't affect the paint. This will remove any oils from your hands or other foreign substances that might cause the finish to create "fish eyes".</td></tr></table>
Oil from your fingers is most likely the culprit. Wipe it down and do not touch it with your hands at all.
Thanks,
I tried heating the epoxy and baits but had not thought about the oils from my hands.
You can go over your epoxied lures with some fine steel wool and re-apply the epoxy. It will look just fine. The epoxy tends to pull away from oils and sharp edges.
Used a little acohol to clean bait prior to putting the epoxy on and no more fish eyes. Thanks for the help guy's.
I have heard of people thining the epoxy ( I assume with actone). Has any of you tried this and how has it worked?
Thanks again,
Kent
You can thin with acetone, as well as other solvents, but I have found that buying a gallon can of reducer made just for thinning epoxies is worth the money. You can find this at any paint store and on average its cheaper in the bulk can than buying smaller quantities of acetone. Another benefit is that the epoxy reducer also conditions the mixture better than acetone making for a better easier to work with coating.
Thanks Herman,
Didn't know that they made a reducer just for epoxy's but that should help alot.
If you do this what % of reducer have you found to work well? I would think that it would be according to temp and hummidity etc.....
Thanks,
Kent
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