The serial number for my motor is j175plsif. I know the part I have pictured is bad. I believe it is the vaccuum switch assembly. part number is 0586034. It is under the fuel filter on the motor. I want to make sure I order the right part because the one in the diagram doesn't look like the I took off the motor. If any of you have a good used one and want to part with it, let me know.
That is the correct part and part number it does get superceeded to 586544.
I was having problems with my motor not going above 4800 rpms and surging. I was told to unplug that switch and run it and if it my motor ran good then the switch was bad. Is this correct? Unplugging the switch did fix my problem. I was also told it was safe to run without it until I got my new switch. Is that correct?
The vacuum switch monitors fuel flow to the engine. If a lean condition is detected it will sound an alarm and also light the check engine LED on your system check gauge. When running your motor in the upper ranges, when the problem is encountered, depress the ignition key to activate the choke. If the problem clears then you have a fuel delivery issue if the motor stumbles then you have an electrical issue.
ok. well I have had my boat in the shop 4 times now and each time i have gotten it back it has been wrong. The first time they redid the carbs. the second time they replaced the power pack (brain box?), third time replaced fuel pump, after they worked on it the 3rd time I remembered to press the choke when it started acting up and it started getting better but went right back to surging as soon as I let go of the choke. so they said it had to be fuel delivery. The 4th time they went through the carbs again and anything that had to do with fuel delivery. Then told me to run it and if it acted up to disconnect the vaccum switch and if it that solved it the switch was bad. Well finially after disconnecting thatt switch it ran like it was supposed to. I have a 1,000 dollars wrapped up in unneeded parts and travel back and forth to the mechanic. please don't tell me it could be something else. I have already bought the new part and plan on putting it on later. However it doesn't look exactly like the picture. not sure how it will plug in yet.
I guess we'll find out soon enough.
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by ChampioNman »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">I guess we'll find out soon enough. </td></tr></table>
That didn't give me the warm and fuzzy feeling I was hoping for.
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by manalive79 »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">
That didn't give me the warm and fuzzy feeling I was hoping for.
That way you're not mad at me.
I got the new vacuum switch but I really don't know how it is going to work. As you can see from the previous pictures the old switch had threads on the back and screwed into the bracket that holds the fule pump assembly. The new one had no threads and the connectors are totally different. I know I can splice the wires togehter but how do I get it to attach back in the same hole the old one came from????
Am I over analyzing this?
.
Bring the switch to Lowe's/Ace/TrueValue. Go to the screw/hardware area. Select the correct size safety slip on washer and buy two. Those are the multi-slotted washers that slip on. You will have to remove the Vapor separator bracket to replace this. Easy though Just remove the bolts that secure it to the block and pull it forward enough to access the rear of the bracket. That is not a new one, that is for a prior model year. It will work though.
Thanks for the help. earlier you listed the part number 586544. The box I got has 0586544. Is the 0 in the part number a mistake (it is hand written on the box)? Or is that just another part number? And splicing the wires is ok to do?
Finger check on my part. They always add 0 to the numbers. That is an older style vacuum switch but will work with the splice.
Got a bit of a new problem. While installing the new switch the pos split in half and I could see all the inernals. I put it back together and used superglue around the outside edges to hold it together. Then I ran a bead of expoxy around the outside seam. Will the switch still work?
This leads me to my next question. Do I really need this vacuum switch? Can I just run without it? If so I can just plug off the fuel line that goes to it and call it good. I really don't want to spend another 100 on a switch if I don't have to.
Yes you need it, looks like someone pulled a fast one on you. I looked at the picture you posted and if you look closely it looks like it was already separated at the bottom of the switch. Check the motor parts for sale here there should be someone parting out a motor. Just don't run without it. It lets you know of a fuel delivery issue, and you could burn up your motor.
yes it did look like it was put togeher unevenly. When I pushed it back together it still looked the same.
Anyway I took it out and ran it and it surged again. This time I unhooked the vacuum switch and it did not help. I really don't understand that. It must have been a fluke last time.
Championman I got a feeling you expected this. Ok so maybe you have an idea of something to try. As I stated before the mechanic that has worked on it before has reworked my carbs. 1st time was a complete overhaul of the carbs. I'm not completely positive what that entails. After that didn't work he figured it was electriacal and changed the power pack (he referred to it as the brain box, It is what all the sparkplug wires run to.) 3 blocks I believe. 3rd time I took it to him he changed the fuel pump because he said it had to be a fuel delivery issue. This time when I ran it I tried the old push the choke trick when it began surging. It definitely didn't stumble. It did improve. After I told him this he said it had to be a fuel delivery issue. So I took it to him and he got back in the carbs. He said that he noticed the rubber on the needles?? had expanded from alcohol. He fixed that issue. He said that it could have been restricting the needles and possibly creating a vacuum but he did say that was unlikely. Which leads me to the vacuum switch. At this point he told me if what he had done in the carbs did not work to try disconnecting the switch. If it improve then the switch must be bad. Like I said before it did improve, ( It got all the way up to 5400 rpms and back to normal top speed.)
All that being said I bought the switch and the rest you know. It is back to surging switch hooke up or not.
Hopefully you have some ideas. I will not be going back to that mechanic. He has told me he prefers working on mercs and yammies.
What was your result with the 6 gallon tank? And are you running 3/8" ID fuel line into the motor? Is the primer bulb sucking flat and is it a BRP primer bulb?
Everything is factory original. The primer bulb is not sucking flat. When I ran off the 6 gallon tank it did the same thing it has been doing. I have been talking with a different mechanic that I am considering taking it to. He says my motor has two fuel pumps. A high pressure and low pressure. Says low pressure is probably bad? Wouldn't that have been corrected when the last mechanic changed the fuel pump?
Reply With Quote