Hard to start Ficht

[leckbass]

I have a 2000 200hp Ficht. Modle#RE200FLSSH Serial#G04864098.

I'm having some trouble starting my motor when it is cold.

Last year I had a blown EMM. I had it sent to DFI Technologies, got it back and the motor ran good, just had some difficulity getting it started first thing in the mornings, after the morning, no problems. Last fall, I noticed the nipple on the top of the vapor seperator was broken off, I replaced that, used the boat a few more times then winterized it. Last week, I did the plugs, fuel filter, and new primer bulb. I primed it till the bulb was hard. It took a few times to get it started, but it ran fine after that. Yesterday, same thing, hard to start, in the beginning of the day.

Any suggestions where to look or what to try next?

Thanks for you help.

[Danrude]

How large is the battery? When was the last decarb? Does it start then dies?

[SEAHORSE]

Hook up a digital voltmeter to the starter post and ground, crank the motor over for about 5 or 10 seconds if it doesn't start. If the voltage drops below 10V, then you have battery, cable, or connection problems - or all of the above

[leckbass]

The battery is a 29 group Duralast. 1000CA It was last decarbed in Late September. Once it starts it doesent die, it just takes a lot of cranking to get it started the first time.

[leckbass]

I will do that this weekend when the snow stops...

[Danrude]

Listen to SeaHorse.

[bobbyhamrickdalton]

I had same problem. New battery cables and bigger battery fixed this. I also have a Ranger which had a dial between the engine and battery for cutting power off entirely. I removed that junction from circuit. You batt sounds good though. I got #4 welding cables from local supply store and ends saving some cash. Evinrudes are 100$

[leckbass]

I checked the battery got 12.92v, checked the cable when it gets to the solenoid 12.89v. I checked the + starter cable when i am trying to start the motor 8.5v

I removed and cleaned everything and the results were the same.

Any suggestions? Maybe its the solenoid?

[ChampioNman]

I'd lean towards the starter. You could get it rebuilt fairly cheap.

[leckbass]

do you think i can bring it to a automotive starter and alternator rebuilder and they would work on it?

[leckbass]

I went to test a few things and the motor fired right up...

I want to test how much voltage loss would happen at the battery, then solenoid, then starter; when i was cranking the motor.

At the battery 11.3
the solenoid 10.25
starter 9.5

Are these numbers normal? The motor started each time this afternoon.

[ChampioNman]

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by leckbass &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">do you think i can bring it to a automotive starter and alternator rebuilder and they would work on it? </td></tr></table>

Yes it can be rebuilt at an alternator/starter shop. If it don't spin fast enough from bad/weak brushes or binding bushings then you will have issues. I could be way off base here but just an idea.

[bobbyhamrickdalton]

Id have to change the cables, ends, and rebuild starter. Be done with it then I bet. Thats how I felt anyway....

[SEAHORSE]

<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by leckbass &raquo;</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">
At the battery 11.3
the solenoid 10.25
starter 9.5

Are these numbers normal? The motor started each time this afternoon.
</td></tr></table>

You've got cable and/or connection problems - losing 1.8 volts from the battery to the starter. Just from the solenoid to the starter is a .75 volt drop.

[leckbass]

One thing i havent looked at is the battery shut off switch. I think i'm going to remove it this weekend and see if i have a voltage drop. If that doesent make any change, i'll replace the battery cables.