Newbie here, trying to get sons 69' Fastwin to run. It does not want to start w/o lots of ether in the cylinders, then will not stay running. The electric starter will spin it over until it kicks once then it struggles to crank it. It is also very hard to pull start. W/O the plugs, it spins easy. We have replaced the fuel pump, rebuilt carb, all new fuel lines and fresh gas, new plugs and points. The spark is very good (white color). Where do we look next?
You might want to give more details about your motor, make, model, HP, model #. If you do not, it will be hard to get any help,,,
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Sea Pro SV1900 bay boat, Yamaha 115HP
Yeah, a bay boat, best of both worlds, peacefulness in the river bass fishing, big fish in bay & ocean !!
have you hugged your wife today ?
Sounds like it's still not getting fuel to me.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pappastratos »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You might want to give more details about your motor, make, model, HP, model #. If you do not, it will be hard to get any help,,,</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's an Evinrude Fastwin 18HP built in 1969.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2ndCajun »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds like it's still not getting fuel to me. </TD></TR></TABLE>
What do you make of the fact that it is so hard to turn over after it initially fires? I pulled the head last night, and it is very clean for a 40 year old motor. I have installed a new pump, reed plate and rebuilt the carb. All hoses and the tank are new with fresh gas and oil mix (50:1). When I pulled the drain plug in the carb bowl, fuel came out but not a whole lot. What should I look for?
Float drop set correctly? If you pump the bulb with the drain plug out does it flow at the pump rate?
I'm with Championman on this one.
Pull your carb apart and make sure you have the float installed correctly.
Make sure the fuel needle is not sticking in the seat.
Verify the passage between the inlet nipple and the carb needle seat is open.
Install the needle and seat and float.
Turn the carb upside down, look at the float, it should be level right to left and front to back. Next turn it right side up and verify the float drops and that the needle opens. Then install the bowl. After it's assembled hook a piece of fuel line on the carb inlet needle and hold the carb in it's normal installed position and blow through the hose. You should be able to blow through it. Turn the carb upside down. You should not be able to blow through it.
I will pull the carb again and check per you instructions. I'm thinking it's the carb too since the motor is basically very simple and it has good spark and compression and that only leaves fuel. Am I correct in assuming that the timing is not adjustible? Thankyou for all the help, I am a small block Chevy guy and know next to nothing about 2 cycle outboards.
I took the carb apart today and think I found the problem. The float bowl gasket that was on the carb was a one piece affair that also sealed the center hollow post that goes up to the intake. The gasket in the rebuild kit was two pieces, one for the outer perimeter and a separate gasket for center post. I forgot to install the center gasket. I would assume that w/o that gasket, there's no way to get fuel out of the bowl and into the engine. Sound right? Waiting for a new head gasket so can't try it out.
Well, turns out that wasn't the problem (at least not the main one). Still hard to start and seens to lean out and start to miss. Gotta be a fuel problem but where?
Timing is set at cam lobe under flywheel. Rotate crank shaft and set points off cam lobe high side should be stamped "SET" on the cam. Set coil air gap with ring. Make sure mag is relatively tight" won't wiggle in your fingers. Can be tightened with a little punch. Tap the armature support slightly (303728), in 4 spots, not much force is needed.Low speed needle seat and back it off 11/4 turns to start. make sure needle tip isn't broken off in orifice, knock out core plug 306442 and check that orifice isn't blocked.Good luck, It'l be a good little engine when you get it going. Smarty
smarty,
Thanks for the reply. I'm not sure I understand the timing part. What is the mag that you refer to that is set with the punch? There is no armature support called out in the parts book I have. If I take a picture of what I have, will that help? I REALLY appreciate the help as I am ready to toss this thing in the lake.
No problem, I kinda grew up with 57-60's motors, cuttin my teeth on them. Anyways when you take off the flywheel you're looking at your points and coils, they're screwed to the armature (mag) plate. The coils are screwed in 4 places. The 4 center screws (2per coil) go through the armature plate to the support plate into the retaining ring. So, will the armature plate, move or wobble in your fingers. If so you need to unscrew the 4 coil screws and lift the armature plate. With a punch, dimple the brass support plate. When you rescrew the armature it will draw up on the retainer plate tightening up the armature. Clear as MUD, send me a photo if you wish. GOOD LUCK. Smarty
smarty,
Got it, everything seems tight and I reset the points. Also measured the distance across the 4 tabs of the mag and set at 4.472" per the book. Now it starts but has a fuel delivery problem. It leans out at idle and stops. When I pull the fuel line off coming from the pump, there was nothing coming out. If I incresed the speed, it would start to pump. When I raised the fuel tank about 2' above the carb, it ran fine. The fuel pump is new as is the carb and reed plate. Is this motor just to tired to generate enough vacuum to make the pump work at idle? It has 90PSI compression in both cylinders which seems OK to me. Your thoughts?
it wouldn't have been the 1st time, I've seen a faulty new pump.When setting your idle, the best way (only positive way)is to do it on the boat at idle ( unrestricted/ not tied up)adjust your low speed needle to give you the best ( smooth/ too lean will sneeze and quit/ too rich will load and quit)idle. What boat are you mounted on. If the motor is stuffed deep( like on a smaller loaded boat) too much back pressure from water in exhaust, it won't want too idle either. (90lbs on a motor that old isn't too bad and they are both equal. Hope some of this helps. Smarty
smarty,
What should the fuel pump pressure be? The most I can get is 2PSI at higher speeds. At idle it is near zero. I suspect my new fuel pump is bad. Your thoughts?
this might sound stupid but it works for me. when you disconnect the gasline from the motor you get air in the hose/ when you try to just stick it back on the motor youll play hell getting it cranked. best thing to do is while sticking the nose of your needlenose pliers into the ball on the gasline that connects to the motor squeeze the gas pumper on the line then when gas squirts out stick it back on your motor and it should crank right up. at least mine does. and if i dont do that i reallly have a hard time starting it because air and not gas is being sent to the cylinders
Thanks for all the help. I replaced the (new) fuel pump with another new one and now life is good. Runs like a top.
Great to hear you got her goin.
Fuel pump pressure should be 3-5 psi.
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