Flywheel Magnets??

[DoferGofer]

I was replacing the stator on my 1985 XP150 Evinrude yesterday when I discovered that four of the six magnets were loose and was only held in place by the magnetic force of the magnets.
They appeared to be in the correct position all except one, which made me check the others, four were loose, two still "seems" to be attached.
My question is should I trust the two that "seems" to be attached or should I break them free and re glue all of them at the same time, if your advice is to break them free, how is this done without damaging the magnets?

Regards,

[SEAHORSE]

See if you can remove them, then bead blast the inner mounting area to get rid of every spec of rust. Use the factory magnet epoxy for best results.

There is also a kit for retaining the magnets and it works great.

http://outboardparts.com/omc/m...k.htm

[RUSTY63]

And when you get it fixed talk Peetie-Pie into a 150 E-Tec.

[DoferGofer]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SEAHORSE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">See if you can remove them, then bead blast the inner mounting area to get rid of every spec of rust. Use the factory magnet epoxy for best results.

There is also a kit for retaining the magnets and it works great.

http://outboardparts.com/omc/m...k.htm</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hossman, dat kit only fits de loopers and I is got me a X-flo




Modified by DoferGofer at 8:20 AM 9/16/2005

[DoferGofer]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RUSTY63 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And when you get it fixed talk Peetie-Pie into a 150 E-Tec. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I said please She said hmm.

I guess I know where my bread is buttered

[ChampioNman]

You must be getting ready to go crabbing wild man it's almost 5 AM and your posting? Give Peetie Pie a little shugar and in the middle of it tell her you could last a whole lot longer if you had an E-tec , then tell her to think of it this way: I'm like the old crossflow and run out of gas before I get into port, if I had a new E-tec I'd never run out of gas! ! CM

[DoferGofer]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SEAHORSE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">See if you can remove them, then bead blast the inner mounting area to get rid of every spec of rust. Use the factory magnet epoxy for best results.

There is also a kit for retaining the magnets and it works great.

http://outboardparts.com/omc/m...k.htm</TD></TR></TABLE>
Will the bead blasting do any damage to the center magnet?

[SEAHORSE]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DoferGofer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Will the bead blasting do any damage to the center magnet?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not all all, it is hell on rust particles, though.

[DoferGofer]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SEAHORSE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Not all all, it is hell on rust particles, though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks, now another one for ya. Is there a polarity difference in the wires from the stator?

My original OEM stator, the two large wires that are screw fasten to the junction block on the starboard side, one is solid yellow and one is yellow & blue, (appears blue).

The new stator both large wires are solid yellow

The original OEM stator starboard side amphenol fitting "B" & "A" wires both are brown & yellow. The port side amphenol fitting "B" & "A" wires both are brown.

What has me worried is the amphenol fitting "A" wire from both power packs are solid brown and the "B" wire is brown & yellow and when connected they don't match color for color.


Since the stator is supplying AC current does it make any difference? I think not. But . . . . . .

PS. Please be kind to an old man

[SEAHORSE]

It sounds like you have an aftermarket stator built by Rapair/CDI inc.

According to them, there is no difference between the wires because of the AC current generated.

[DoferGofer]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SEAHORSE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It sounds like you have an aftermarket stator built by Rapair/CDI inc.

According to them, there is no difference between the wires because of the AC current generated.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes sir, they are the only high dollar parts folks that an old retired senior (senile) citizen can afford on a limited income.

[ChampioNman]

The original stator had yellow and yellow grey trace, since your dealing with AC current don't matter on that. The Amphenol connections should be the same. The CDI/Rapair Stators are OK and carry a warranty. The PP's and timerbases are ? and some times cause problems. But on their side they will stand behind their stuff.

[DoferGofer]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ChampioNman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The original stator had yellow and yellow grey trace, since your dealing with AC current don't matter on that. The Amphenol connections should be the same. The CDI/Rapair Stators are OK and carry a warranty. The PP's and timerbases are ? and some times cause problems. But on their side they will stand behind their stuff.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok, thanks a lot. As of now I am on hold until I hear from the pretty little parts chick. I ordered magnets and glue. Therefore, I will have to wait until they get here before I can go crabbing again. I wonder if those loose magnet had any effect on missing/surging that I was getting around 4100.
Actually the ohm reading on the new stator are not that much different than the old stator. However, both charge coils had started to blister and the timer base seems to have been hot.
Only time will tell.

[ChampioNman]

Bad thing about the old OMC ignition systems is when one component starts to go they go en' masse' and the cost is astromomical about a grand to do it all. PP, TB, Stator and R/R. From what I've seen over the years and this is just me talking about the X-flows, the PP or the R/R goes out first and the TB is the last the stator holds up pretty well as long as the coils stay the nice copper color. With the T pack (you don't have one) you loose one side of the motor. With the R/R you loose either the tach or the charging side. The TB well,, you either won't start at all or have no accelleration, if it does. One day it will start one day it won't depends on the day's Wx. Ohms check shows OK but a load test is the only way to test the system. For the backyard guy the price of the test equipment is cost prohivitive.

[RUSTY63]

I would like to add........I do not recommend after market ignition components........you may save a few bucks up front but you will pay in the long run.

[DoferGofer]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RUSTY63 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would like to add........I do not recommend after market ignition components........you may save a few bucks up front but you will pay in the long run. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I fully understand young man and I do try to buy OEM and did prior to retiring and the recent tobacco buy out.
I really do appreciate the patience, tolerance and help that you and the gang here gives this old geyser.

Looking forward to hearing from you soon.