With all the recent concerns about ethanol phase separating out of the current gasolines, I'm unclear what is the best approach for winter storage.
The conventional advice used to be to fill up your gas tank before putting it away for the winter to avoid condensation. Is this still the recommended approach, of course with a stabilizer added?
2020 Triton 216 Fishunter
Mercury V8 300 Verado (2B646603)
Because of a recent back surgery, I cannot use my boat for 3, 4 or more months. I asked this same question just before the surgery. The answer I got was to fill up both tanks with non-ethanol gas, add the usual amount of Quickleen and then add Stabil per the recommendations.
If you can't find non-ethanol gas, you could use the new marine Stabil I suppose.
It's been sitting now for three months. Sure hope the recommended solution is the right one. Hate to spend almost $200 to fill the tanks only to find out I can't use it when it's time to put it back in the water.
There are MANY factors to consider here.... but we've had the best luck with FULL tanks of fuel, PLENTY of stabilizer (don't be afraid to use as much as "twice" the recommended amount), and take whatever precautions you "can reasonably take" to limit the fuel tank's "exposure to moisture" (as in, dry storage).
Keep in mind... you need to RUN the engine on the fuel you are storing (stabilized) long enough for the Stabilized fuel to be COMPLETELY through the fuel system. Five minutes on a garden hose DOES NOT GET THIS DONE on an Optimax Motor... you're much better off to prepare your tanks with stabilizer before your last outing, run the engine under load with the stabilized fuel for 15+ minutes, then top off the tanks and properly stabilize for the fuel added.
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 48 years (learn something new every day).
Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor
Don,
Can you tell me why it wouldn't be better to winterize the engine then drain the tank (s) and start with all fresh gas, quickclean, and fuel stabil in the spring?
I've done it the other way but the more I think about the enthanol gas and phase separation not to mention a Dec through March winter period up here the more I think about doing it as above this year?????
I'm really worried about the first few times I'm out in the spring with all that 4 month old gas and what's going to happen when I run her real hard
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by esdbass »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don,
I'm really worried about the first few times I'm out in the spring with all that 4 month old gas and what's going to happen when I run her real hard
I am the same way, not to question your expertise Don but what about a higher compression motor?? Say 145lbs? Should I keep it full and stabilize the crap out of it or run it as empty as possible with a lot of stabilizer in the last tank???
Until I seen this I always ran the last tank with a heavy dose of stabilizer and tried to run as much as possible out. What would you do if you were in my shoes Don??
The SAFEST fuel system is one that is TOTALLY DRY. So yes, if you can remove ALL the fuel from the tank (stabilize the engine as before described... this will HELP to prevent gumming of the fuel pump, injectors, etc), then drain the tank.
A dry tank before storage, followed by a "fresh load of fuel" when it's "recommissioned" would be "the best of both worlds". If you're running an engine that REQUIRES high-test, high-octane fuel.... you better make the choice to go this way. There would be NO GUARANTEE that ANY stabilizer would be able to maintain the freshness of your fuel at the "required higher octane" (i.e. your 91 or 92 octane fuel might have dropped to as low as 88 or 89 octane during storage).
Sorry for not mentioning this.... we see VERY few people who are interested in going to the trouble, or expense, of following the recommendation. It is, however, the "preferred" method.
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 48 years (learn something new every day).
Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor
Forgot to mention that I took my boat to my local Ranger dealer and had the mechanic run the motor with Stabil in it. He ran it for about 15 minutes while he checked the motor with his laptop. I probably added twice the amount of Stabil that was recommended.
Every time I express my concerns to friends about the affects of running stale gas when I finally get back out to the lake they are always glad to offer assistance. Of course, their offer is to take my boat out to the lake and run it for a day to ensure the motor stays in tip-top shape
I can't believe only VERY FEW people are willing to do it this way, some pretty high $$$ motors to be cuttin cornersThanks for the info Don
Well...guess I'll ask a stupid question. How do you remove all the fuel from your gas tank. There doesn't appar to e any easy way to remove the gas tank...at least not on my rig. Siphon it out???
Modified by rpr at 3:29 PM 9/14/2008
2020 Triton 216 Fishunter
Mercury V8 300 Verado (2B646603)
Siphon it out would be the best means. Keep in mind... DRY is best (2 gallons remaining is worse than a full tank- literally).
Fuel sender is usually the best access to get to the "lowest corner" of the tank, if you're going to drain it.
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 48 years (learn something new every day).
Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor
Hi Don. I have previously siphoned my 250 XB and thought that I had drained it completely. If there is 2 gallons approximately left in a 50 gallon tank on my Stratos, what is the problem? The remaining gas has been treated with Quickleen,double Stabil, and Startron. I do not have ready access to my gas tank. What risk am I running? Thanks.
The biggest concern comes when there is ethanol in the fuel... since ethanol is "infinitely soluable" with water, it tends to attract large quantities of atmospheric moisture into the tank while stored (especially when the fuel container has "empty space" that can be filled).
For more information on this subject, Sherm has posted excerpts from "Mercury's View of Ethanol" at: http://www.bbcboards.net/zerothread/114216
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 48 years (learn something new every day).
Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor
Drain my tanks every fall and start out with fresh gas every spring. I take the old gas and run it in the truck to get rid of it. I have been using the Startron Fuel treatment since it came out and have not been able to see any difference in the old gas such as would cause any problems with the boat engine. I know a bunch of guys that just stabalize the fuel and none of them have had any major issues either
How do you go about draining the tanks completely dry?
The "best" method would be to remove the fuel sending unit, insert a flexible copper tube (with a siphon hose attached) into the sender opening, and position it at the lowest corner of the tank (you can run the trailer jack up or down, as needed, to move fuel to the lowest corner). Time consuming- absolutely!
Most of the time (provided the engine in question does not REQUIRE HIGH TEST FUEL), we simply "over-stabilize" a FULL tank of mid-grade fuel (hence leaving the fuel "near" 87 octane after 3-5 months).
This has worked fairly well for us, but presents problems when you get into engines that require 92 octane fuel (you can seldom maintain the required octane rating when left sitting for extended periods).
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 48 years (learn something new every day).
Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor
OK... I just saw one of those "dumb-dumb of the year" reports this weekend- so (depite a few minutes of "dumbfounded hesistation"... I'm going to mention it here (just in case there is someone even THINKING about doing this):
<U>DO NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, EVEN THINK ABOUT UTILIZING A VACCUM CLEANER OR SHOP VAC TO DRAIN YOUR FUEL TANK</U>!!!
This apparently has already been tried... and although it will solve the problem of "fuel in the tank"... it creates a much larger problem: A crater where the vaccum was, multiple houses with severe fire damage, a "blown to bits carport and boat", etc. etc. Your neighbors will NOT appreciate the fireworks display, either.......
See: http://www.bbcboards.net...21762
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 48 years (learn something new every day).
Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor
A tip from a friend led me to purchase a Black and Decker Jack Rabbit pump to drain my fuel tank. It's a hand operated pump used to start the siphon process and works like a dream. I pumped the fuel from my boat tank straight into my truck.
B&D no longer makes the pump, but you can find them on Ebay once in a while. Set your Ebay preferences to alert you when one comes available.
"Better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt."
I just use about 6 to 8 feet of 5/16 fuel hose and a primer bulb to get it started. That way you are not drinkin gas
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