Motor cuts out while trimming

[Triton19x2]

Does not seem noticeable first thing in the morning but later when I take off trying to get on plane the motor cuts out when I hit the trim. As soon as I let go the trim it takes off. Runs wide open no problem.
I checked my battery connections and found neg. in the wrong order big VS small and VERY slightly able to move cables. Put cables in the right order and tightened well. Hope that does it

[sethv]

Read that battery thread - I bet it is your cranking battery.

The trim pumps draw a lot of power - and right after hole shot the engine has not had much chance to charge the battery. I am thinking this happens most when you trim it out right after hole shot, but if you have been running on pad for a few minutes, it won't do it as often when you hit the trim?

[Triton19x2]

Yes you are right, but I have the Sears Platinum 31 series and had it load tested with no problems. Not sure where to go from here

[EuropeanAM]

Bolt is NOT visible in photo. It's below the starter, underneath the pitot sensor and several cables (you'll have to do a little digging to get to it).

[Triton19x2]

Is this it?
Neg Power cable '07 225 proxs.jpg
I removed and cleaned. surface behind was bare as well with no paint or anything. Re installed and will try this weekend

[EuropeanAM]

Is this it?
Neg Power cable '07 225 proxs.jpg
I removed and cleaned. surface behind was bare as well with no paint or anything. Re installed and will try this weekend

That is it.... make sure the cable can't be rotated on the bolt when finished.

[bloodman]

If that doesnt do it get a different battery and try it for a while. Borrow it or whatever. I dont trust the load testers. Just me I guess.

[Triton19x2]

The tech at Sears did tell me that the battery is so big that if it ever gets fully drained that they are impossible to recharge even with his chargers.......hmmm That would fail a load test

[ssv1761982]

As a simple, short term test, couldn't you move the battery cables to a trolling motor battery? This would be a quick and easy way to see if it makes any difference at all.

If it acts the same it would eliminate your starting battery as a possible problem.

[EuropeanAM]

As a simple, short term test, couldn't you move the battery cables to a trolling motor battery? This would be a quick and easy way to see if it makes any difference at all.

If it acts the same it would eliminate your starting battery as a possible problem.

Deep cycle batteries are not recommended for use as a Cranking Battery. This would, however, be a viable (and quick) method to rule out a battery problem. Keep in mind, however, your test results will only be as good as the battery you've connected.

[Triton19x2]

Went to the lake today and problem is still there with an additional symptom. While keeping hot foot steady the motor seems to drop 50 - 100 RPMs just for a second or two and then returns to full power. This happened almost all day for the 3 - 4 hours I was out. I hooked up the timing light when I got home and all 6 cylinders were firing. Of course the motor never has the issues at idle. I have not tried the trolling motor battery yet. Any other suggestions?
BTW, Volts stay steady @ 14.0 V while the motor seem to hold back etc. The volts do drop when the trim is activated. Turned the key on and waited for the merc monitor to come up BEFORE starting the engine and it reads 12.5 V

[EuropeanAM]

Fraser.... you can try the other battery, just to rule that out.

I do, however, suspect that you have something else going on. Probably going to need to analyze the trim motor circuit with an ammeter to determine how much current is being consumed.

Excessive draws can be the result of a faulty/failing trim motor, binding in the trim system, or even simple connection problems in the relay system wiring (such as poor ground wire connections for the relay packs).

Based on your 50-100 RPM loss/gain complaint, I'd also be looking very carefully for any signs of OIL LEAKAGE at or around the flywheel, air compressor, or evidence thereof on the belt, pulleys, or inside the upper cowling.

[Triton19x2]

Thanks Don for the help. I "chickened out" and took the boat into the dealer this afternoon. He said he has seen this before. He mentioned one possibility could be loose connections in the battery switch box. I will report back what he finds. Got a tournament this weekend...naturally

[sethv]

I just helped a buddy with the same boat that you have (Triton) and he had a similar problem. Traced it to the rigging that Triton did with the battery switch. They ran the main motor power leads to the switch box and then to the battery.

I bypassed that switch and ran both leads from the motor DIRECT to the battery and his problems were solved. That switch is junk and is a huge voltage drop that you don't want. That starter sucks a lot of power and from what I could tell it was a low amp rated switch - not near enough for the pull of a starter.

[EuropeanAM]

I just helped a buddy with the same boat that you have (Triton) and he had a similar problem. Traced it to the rigging that Triton did with the battery switch. They ran the main motor power leads to the switch box and then to the battery.

I bypassed that switch and ran both leads from the motor DIRECT to the battery and his problems were solved. That switch is junk and is a huge voltage drop that you don't want. That starter sucks a lot of power and from what I could tell it was a low amp rated switch - not near enough for the pull of a starter.

VERY good point. As stated previously, engine cables should be connected directly to the BATTERY (and should be the FIRST lug installed).

[PlanoKeith]

I agree that the dealer put a cheap switch in the tritons. I had one that went bad and was losing contact. BUT!! I put a brand new one that was rated for 4 gauge ( Big and heavy duty )and the reason I put it back is so I could recharge the cranking battery. So Are y'all saying that we need to get rid of the main power switch and unscrew the lock nut every time we charge the cranking battery?? Seems like that would do some wear and tear on the nut and the connectors. I recharge my battery every time I come off the lake.

[PlanoKeith]

When I trim getting on a [plane my voltage only goes down to 12.8 or 12.9. from 13.9-14.0. Wonder if the alternator is getting weak or something. I have the pm-1 (31) and have no problems. Even after the shop rebuilt the trim pump they ran the battery down from bleeding the trim system and I charged it back up ( took 8 plus hours to do so ) and after I ran the boat yesterday it only took five minutes to recharge on 10 amp when I got home. Maybe a voltage reg? any way I hope you fix it and good luck.

[EuropeanAM]

Keith:

Manufacturers are actually REQUIRED to install battery switches when 1000 MCA or higher batteries are recommended/installed.

So you're not wrong to have installed one.... however, I'd be inclined to move the engine leads DIRECTLY to the cranking battery and see if the problem persists. If it's gone... you've narrowed the problem down considerably.

[PlanoKeith]

Don I have had no problems with the new heavy duty main power switch I put on the battery. I was just questioning the charging part where is it ok to charge the battery whitout a switch at all and leaving the main motor leads hooked up? I also read a post about some fellow boaters on here that had trouble with their trim motor relays failing and the trim pump started trimming all night while they were asleep and the next morning wake up to find that their trim pump had burned up from trying to trim up all night so it was recommended to put a main power switch on the cranking battery to make sure this doesn't happen again. I will keep mine on the boat and remember that will be the first place to check If and when I have a problem in the future

[JAZII]

Did you find out what's causing your motor to cut out while trimming?

It might just be your trim motor. Have you done an Amp draw test on your trim motor?

JAZII