When I start my engine my LMS 332c goes dead from power drain. I can turn it back on as soon as the engine starts running. I replaced my cranking battery thinking it might not have enough cranking amps, but this did not help. My engine is a 2005 225HO Etec if that matters. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Todd
How many cold cranking amps is the new battery? Most of the gurus like to see 1000 ca at least. Could be a dragging starter causing too much power drain.
Fishfinders need atleast 10 volts to work. When you crank the big motor, it is dropping the voltage below 10 volts, therefore cutting off your electronics. Might have a faulty battery or a short in your power cord.
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Javelin Renegade 20 DC
Johnson 225 H.O.
is this a new problem that has crept up or has it always been the same ?
Car headlights dim out and car radio dim out to when starting.
If only for a few milliseconds until the starting current limits itself out by the internal resistance of the starter that battery is basically "shorting out" and dropping its voltage way way down... probably causing your lms to shut down.
a large anti parasite coil in series with the 12 volts to the LMS may hold the +12 v up just long enough (miliseconds) until that battrey voltage springs back to +12 volts.
something else to try out.... up to you !
Have you considered a separate battery (accessories only) while a starting battery will take care of the engine's high starting current needs ?
A small lawn tractor battery may be all you need to feed +12V tou your LMS.
That small battery could be recharged via the starting battery circuit by hooking up both batteries in parallel with a 10 amp fused cross-connection and... a diode (Radio Shack 50 amp diode - $2) to stop the smaller battery from sending any current backwards to the starting battery
(I belive the diode arrow should point away from the smaller battery towards the starting battery. If you have the same symptoms reverse the diode)
This will allow charging current to "flow in" the smaller battery and prevent any juice from the small battery "flowing out"...to the starting battery during the starting cycle.)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bassmeister »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How many cold cranking amps is the new battery? Most of the gurus like to see 1000 ca at least. Could be a dragging starter causing too much power drain.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The E-Tech needs a 1000ca battery. The ignition system in a E-Tech is nothing like the old traditional carburetor motors. The computer controls the ignition and it needs plenty of amps to function properly.
A 332 Lowrance will shut its self down when it is not getting enough voltage...you need a 1000ca battery
Would this (bigger battery) be the same case for a DI Engine? (06' 150 Rude)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cody87 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Would this (bigger battery) be the same case for a DI Engine? (06' 150 Rude)</TD></TR></TABLE>
YES
It is recommended that all Evinrude Ficht DI and E-Tech motors receive lots of cranking amps so the computer and ignition to preform up to par... 1000 amp battery.
I have a 99 150 Evinrude Ficht. From the dealer he installed a Interstate 24XHD 1000 amp battery. I now run a Superlex 24 HD 1050 amp battery. When I refer to a bigger battery I am talking about amp size not group/series size. I would choose a 24 series 1000 amp over a 27 series 850 amp battery.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 200PXL »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When I start my engine my LMS 332c goes dead from power drain.</TD></TR></TABLE>
As others have noted, the problem is due to the voltage of the battery dropping during engine cranking to a level below that which the vessel electronics can tolerate. The electronics either shut off or reboot.
The best solution to this is to use an isolated battery for powering the vessel electronics system, separate from the engine starting battery. The "house" battery can be a smaller battery with just enough ampere-hour capacity to maintain the electronics during periods when the engine is not running. Use a dual charger output or an automatic charging relay (also called a voltage sensitive relay) to permit the house battery to be charged.
THe 225 HO ETEC only needs a 675 CCA battery. Or if being used in weather below 32 then a 750 CCA battery. They are much better starting then the old carbed enignes. All the battery needs is enough juice in it to get the flywheel to spin a half turn and its going on a ETEC.. Now Mercury on the other hand needs the larger 1000 CCA to power up there 2 computers.
I'll check my battery, i have a hunch that its only an 850 amp though...
My 150 DI didn't want to start all that fast when i got it. Gonna try new plugs first.
I checked and my battery is 600 CCA, so I guess I need ANOTHER BATTERY.
Thanks for the help.
Spark plugs should make you start right up. When were they changed last?
Just bought the motor, and i dont think the previous owner changed the plugs on 200 hrs use.
sound like the problem?
If you are getting that new battery then why not keep the "old" one as your accessory battery to feed your LMS and stuff.
If you do not plan on hooking it up to be charged by the engine then all you need to do is charge it up when not fishing.
I got a 1000CCA battery and my problem is solved.
Thanks everyone!
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