Lower unit

[yamaha]

I lost my lower unit on a fishing trip in Canada, its been at the yamaha dealar for six weeks I keep calling and they say they are waiting for parts. They call me fri and its finally done. Pick it up looks great, new paint
job motor looks brand new. Take the boat to the lake first thing thing saturday morning boat runs fine everything is back to normal, pull the boat out and to my surprise the paint is flaking off the size of quarters. Plus where they had the motor toter on it left four circles when the rubber plugs lay on the motor. Didn't notice this when I picked it up but when I pulled out it was very noticeable in the sunlight. What gives isn't the paint baked on or should they have told me not to use for a few days, never lost a lower unit before I thought I was good to go. What would you all suggest. I'm a little heated.

[macinckirk]

I Bet they just sand it some and spary painted it with cans I tryed that after reading on here it works and I was a painter for years and trust me it does work to good. 1st trip out anything around the water pick up was gone now I have had it out a few times I seeing other areas starting to let go

[yamaha]

Anybody ever paint their lower unit and what kind of paint do you use.

[Sigma]

I bet they did not use an etching primer on it before painting.

[Tony Reynolds RPM]

the only method I have found to be as durable as the original factory paint is:
if unit is a "used" housing, then you must strip by sandblasting with 60-80 grit silicon carbide media, then clean with "toon-brite" (its a mild acid for cleaning pontoon boats), then pressure wash with soapy water.
First pray with MP-900 epoxy primer (with Matrix hardener) thru a HVLP gun at 26psi with a 1.7 tip. bake in a booth, or set outside in the hot sun all day, then cool overnite outside.
now your ready to paint the color with a 1.5 tip. we use Matrix acrylic urethane base/clear system.
one heavy, wet coat of base color alone. let flash 20 mins, then mix Matrix clear into the base(3parts reduced base to 1part clear) and apply 2 light coats of that, one immediately after the other, then let flash for 20 mins and apply one final wet coat. bake for 30 mins, or set outside in the hot sun all day and let cool overnite. install and go fishing next day.
It has been my experience that any method involving anything from a spray can that i have tried, at any stage of the paint process, will flake off.
lower units need a paint that has a chemical hardener in it.
If you have this done at a local body shop, expect to spend about $200 to $300, if you take them your empty lower housing, already media blasted and cleaned.
We do all ours on-site, so its just part of the remanufacturing price.

[EL Skeeter]

Back in 2002 something in the road knocked out a chunk from my stabilizing fin.Took boat to an aluminium welder After the job I took a flake to a paint shop.had it analized.They made up 3 different paint cans,one was "chromabase" Code 3699.color-sikorsky dark blue met. Next "MasterBlend EZ touch Omni-pak.I cant read the last can label(1/2 the label is missing). After using as directed the paint job looks better than the original.The paint job has held up to this day. So consider this option.Think the total cost was around $50. or less

[yamaha]

Thanks guys I appreciate it.