Any Evinrude DI electrical specialists?

[evinrude150di]

evinrude150DI wrote:

(copied and pasted from http://www.etecownersgroup.com)

Hi, I have twin 2004 150hp direct injection outboards (not quite an ETEC but close) that I am attempting to rebuild after a capsize several months ago and was wondering if anyone can help with the following questions.

1. Is the computer waterproof and capable of being submerged for several hours like mine was? (it looks perfect and i undid cover to expose gel)

2. Is there anyway I can power on the computer when it's off the outboard to test? ( I'm an aircraft electrical technician so all I need is pin and plug numbers, and voltages/ amperage and anyone's knowledge or experience)

3. What voltage and amperage do the fuel injectors, fuel pump, oil pump operate at and how can i test these? (fuel injectors with diagnostic software?)

4. Where can I get wiring diagrams showing operating voltages and specs for all the electrics onboard? (download?)

Thanks for any info.......



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LIQUIDNIRVANA wrote:

I would suggest that a mine of information is available in the service manual. A great investment.


Here is a link to the Operator Guide for those years. Not what you need but good reading.

The Workshop manual is available via you local dealer or try E-Bay

http://12.2.215.22/og/default....,SPOR TBOAT




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SEAHORSE wrote:

Testing is not as sophisticated as with aviation electronics, everything but the 12V fuel pump runs on 40 volts or uses a 5 volt reference signal. The EMM is not waterproof so if it was dunked in saltwater, its days are probably numbered. Contact http://www.dfitechnologies.com for EMM service or info.

Get the factory service manual, the diagnostic software , and the interface cable to do the job correctly. Good luck

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evinrude150DI wrote:

Thanks Liquid. I read through that manual and it was helpfull. I'm looking for a service manual.
Seahorse, i'm guessing all the sensors are 5v. With regards to the EMM what is all the gel coating the motherboard for? It looks pretty watertight when you take off the back cover. Top cover I couldn't get off but am assuming the same. I contacted dfitechnologies so i'll see if i get a response from them. How do you know everything is 40 volts except for fuel pump, is this info in the service manual? The fuel injectors must be 12 volts also because you can test fire them with the software and that requires engine off. Can anyone tell me where I can see the input/ output signals and voltages on the EMM?
Thanksssssssssssss

[SEAHORSE]

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by evinrude150di &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">evinrude150DI wrote:

Seahorse, i'm guessing all the sensors are 5v. With regards to the EMM what is all the gel coating the motherboard for? It looks pretty watertight when you take off the back cover. Top cover I couldn't get off but am assuming the same. I contacted dfitechnologies so i'll see if i get a response from them. How do you know everything is 40 volts except for fuel pump, is this info in the service manual?
Can anyone tell me where I can see the input/ output signals and voltages on the EMM?


</TD></TR></TABLE>


Any electrical damage depends on fresh or salt water intrusion and how deep and for long the motor was under water. They are not waterproof but they are water resistant. Saltwater immersions usually end up with bad sensors and eventually bad coils and corroded connections after a few months. Good luck.

The service manual gives you all the info for testing the electrical system but you will need some special tools, adapters, laptop, interface cable, and the diagnostic software from Evinrude. See a dealer for what's needed or contact online dealers who sponsor the websites.

[evinrude150di]

The motors were sumberged in salt water for several hours when the boat over turned. In the mean time I have aquired the service cable and software 1.42b. I don't think I can get the service manual anytime soon though so can anyone tell me how to power up the computer when it is a single unit off the motor? The motor is in 1000 parts. I have a variable voltage generator and would like to power it up and see if the computers are good???

[SEAHORSE]

Gotta power up the WHOLE system for testing. No bench checking the EMM by itself.

The other components can be checked for resistance is all.

You need a manual.

[evinrude150di]

Seahorse, I can't purchase a service manual at the moment, and i'm not sure the motor is worth rebuilding. This is because they (2) were submerged when running and left for dead. I have removed everything on the motor and am presently soaking the head in transmission oil and kerosene to try and free the pistons. The EMM can definately be bench tested because it is a computer. When you turn the key 12 volts goes from battery through to starter solenoid, relay's and fuse box and from there distributes itself to certain pins on the EMM, and sensors ect. These can be simulated or ignored. I'm not worried if everything isn't hooked up to the EMM, I understand it will record all the failed sensors which are not attached. All I wanna do is verify that the EMM powers on and I wanna review past data which I can do with software now.
So... Can anyone send me pdf of the EMM schematics? That is a drawing of the EMM and every signal that comes to the EMM and leaves the EMM and what that signal does. Ect 12 volts power plug 1 pin 3,4, crank sensor plug 2 pin 6,7.

[SEAHORSE]

I know exactly what you want to do. About the only way is to hook up everything electrically related to the EMM with the engine wiring harness and connect to the keyswitch ((or jumper) and battery, then see if it fires up and can produce a report to your laptop.

The wiring schematic is a large foldout in the service manual and it is copyrighted in the US. There is nothing online for your motor that I am aware of. Any dealers nearby who you are friends with?

Try contacting dfitechnologies.com and see if they have anything to help you out.

[evinrude150di]

Ok thanks Seahorse. I would like to try hooking everything up to wiring harness but..... the fuse box and relays were shot with the salt water and therefore it cannot be hooked up to the harness. This is where the schematics would be handy cause I could jump the pins. I contacted dfi technologies twice by email and have had no reply so this goes to tell me that they are running a poor operation or are simply concerned with profiting and not customer service. Either way they have prooved useless. I am a U.S. citizen and was in the USAF for 4 years with my dad still living in U.S. so I could purchase whatever I need there and have it sent over. Otherwise dealers here could help, at a price. I am not sure the motors are worth rebuilding at this point. Oil system is good, fuel system is good, computer is assumed good, cylinders and head looks ok, but several corosion points where the alloy has chemically reacted. Starter motor and start capacitor is good. Fues box and relays are shot, starter solenoid is shot, trim and tilt is good, alternator is good besides some surface rust, crankshaft is unknown at this point. Pistons and rods are unknown and still in head. Seals bearings ect are shot. Fuel plates in air intake are destroyed (half). Been a good project though.

[noelm]

a way back you said the block is soaking to try to free up the seized pistons, from that I would be thinking the motors are not worth mucking around with, the crank will almost certainly be stuffed as well, time to part it out and salvage what you can.

[evinrude150di]

Yea I think that's what I will do. Half of this project was for gthe challenge. Anyone need any parts?

[rude power]

would a manual from a cd be used ,these are easy to get and cheap $10 or so. and can probably be bought and downloaded from the net

[gilly]

i wouldn't spend a nickel on a ficht. the ecu costs more than the engine is worth.

[noelm]

most CD and cheap downloaded manuals are useless , and doubly so for your engine I would think, buy a genuine manual, seems like Gilly is the resident expert on all things Ficht from his reply, very helpful.

[Bassmeister]

The 04 isn't a Ficht, however it sounds like the damage to the block is significant. JMHO

[ChampioNman]

When motors are submerged when hot it is pretty much toast AKA as time for a new one especially when one goes down at speed.
A carb motor has a much better chance to be revived than a DFI motor. Salt H2O makes it worse. Sell the gearcases and trim systems and what ever else you can.

[evinrude150di]

What do you think of boreing the cylinders and putting custom pistons in? Just an idea...
Anyway i'll prob scrap them. Such a shame, they looked beautiful. Does anyone know what makes and models and horsepower's the gearbox and tilt/ trim and anything else can be used for?

[noelm]

boring the block and new pistons is fine, the big money is going to be the crank, rods and bearings as well, then the possible failures of the electrics further down the track, listen to Championman, his advice on a drowned DFI is spot on.